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10-05-2007, 07:52 AM
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 Sick cattleya Hi. I bought a cattleya in a bag from Loew's about a month ago. It was the only one left and it was ina 2 and1/4 inch pot. I followed the directions on the bag and it indicated that it should be potted in a three or four inch pot. It is now in a four inch orchid pot with crock at the bottom. The problem is that the plant came with wrinkled leaves and pseudobulbs and that its condition hasn't changed. I have it on a windowsill with no direct sun. The temperatures are running warm at 80 during the day and 60 at night. The humidity is at least 60% 95%of the time. Is there anything special I can do for it. I hate the thought of unpotting it but I will if this is what is advised. It is staying green and nothing has died on it since I got it. Any suggestions would be helpful. I know that this is the place to go for help.       |
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10-05-2007, 11:01 AM
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| If you are sure it had live roots when you repotted, there is nothing to do but wait. Sometimes the plants can take a few months to end a normal period of dormancy, so be patient. When repotting, you can tell if roots are alive or dead by gently squeezing them. If alive, they will be firm/succulent. If dead, they will collapse, and if soft, are probably recently deceased. If very firm but very black, which I see occasionally, that is a condition of being dead but petrified. If any of the roots are accessible, you may want to test them. And, if you can't find any live roots any other way, it may be worthwhile to remove the plant from the pot to inspect the roots. If all roots are dead, let us know, and we can give you further instructions of how to save the plant.
__________________ Cynthia Prescott Orchid Society  |
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10-05-2007, 01:20 PM
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| Thank you so much for the reply. I think I will unpot it just to be sure. It had a new growth when it went into the bag, but this has fallen off. One surface root is waterlogged. I have a feeling that water was poured into the bag and it rotted the new growth. I'll feel better if I have a look-see to make sure it's not a pile of mush. |
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10-09-2007, 10:39 AM
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| I unpotted the cattleya and there were no viable roots. I put it in a plastic bag ditting on some moist spagnum moss. I was wondering how learge the zip-log bag has to be. The bag it is in is a sandwich bag. The largest leaf brushes the top. Is there any danger in keeping it this way? It doesn't want to stand up eiither. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. |
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10-09-2007, 07:32 PM
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| Nancy, I've lost roots on my cattleyas many times and as well, cut all the roots off after blooming when I repotted them, out of necessity because of entire root rot. Some growers deliberately remove all the roots with each new repotting and say it promotes new growth faster without ever skipping a season. Cattleyas are amazing because it takes more than losing or cutting off all their roots to kill them. I've also bought a couple of catts that were pre-packaged as you described and I've found that the quality of these plants can more than sometimes be questionable. Two of them had developed rot but I think it was brewing before I ever took over their care. You can keep your catt in a bag with some sphag. or you can put it in medium, potted up rootless. I've used the bag/sphag method on dendrobiums with success, never tried it with catts. Which ever you choose, make sure you first cut all the dead roots to stop the spread of rot, a suggested rooting hormone soak might help. Some disagree that a rooting hormone on a totally rootless catt is a good idea but I haven't experienced anything negative about it's use. Keep it out of direct sun and no watering for 2-3 weeks. After then, start watering it regularly and keep it in a sunny location. You should by then start to see a lot of growth activity, without having to unpot it. I have a huge catt that I removed every single root from (this past June)after it's last blooming. The ps.bulbs became shriveled, the leaves did too. It wasn't until just a few weeks ago that the leaves smoothed out again. Patience is one thing required when having orchids. Last edited by sandra; 10-09-2007 at 07:39 PM. |
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10-09-2007, 09:18 PM
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10-10-2007, 12:44 AM
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| Nancy, you need to update your profile with your location. Sphag & Bag is fine any where, but potting up without roots I would only recommend for high humidity areas like Florida. The bag you have is fine. I usually hang my bags from the edge of my greenhouse bench. The hormone thing is fine for a rootless plant as it will act to start new growths, but you have to wash it off after the new growths start of it will act to delay rooting in the new growths . I know this sounds crazy, but rooting hormone on Sympodials, at least on the rhizome does not stimulate roots, just new growths. This from a year or so of experience in using a variety of rooting hormone brands on a ton of plants.
__________________ Cynthia Prescott Orchid Society |
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10-10-2007, 08:27 AM
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| I'm not sure how to update my information, but I live in Middle River, Maryland. I still have small roots on my catt. I left them on so that the plan can sit up on the moss and to rest its rhisome in a little trench left in the moss. I can't tell if the roots I've left are alive. They are thick and firm, but not green. I can try potting it again with a bag on top of it if this sounds like a good isea. All pb's have plumbed up but the leaves remain wrinkled. So the question is, should I cut the rest of the roots off and leave it in the bag, cut the roots and pot it rootless covering it with a bag, or pot it with roots as is. It seems very complicated but I really want it to live. Thank you all for the advice. Please keep it coming until I'm able to come to a conclusion. |
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10-10-2007, 11:36 AM
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| If the plant 'may' have a tiny bit of root left, I think I would not want to leave the roots embedded in wet moss. If you have wrung out the moss pretty well before putting it in the bag, the roots can touch the moss and it will probably be OK. Live roots can be white or an off color, sort of light brown. If they are close to black, and especially if they are toward the back of the plant, I would assume they are dead. I don't think it is important to remove all the dead roots, so you can probably leave it as it is.
__________________ Cynthia Prescott Orchid Society |
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10-10-2007, 12:09 PM
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| The roots are toward the front of the plant. They are a tan to grey color and have plumped up since they have been in the spagnum. No new growth yet but the little pb's are plumping up as well. Can all these inerventions work for a seedling? It only has four small pb's and is probably about four years from being blooming size. Thanks so much for the help. I will surveythings again when I get home from work. |
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10-10-2007, 07:59 PM
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| I too have purchased 9 cattleya orchids from Lowes as you have described in a very small pot. Some were in okay condition and others had very wrinkled leaves with barely any root systems. I first soaked all my little catts in water with superthrive for a couple of minutes to plump up any roots it may have then just potted them with sphag moss, bark, and perlite in a 4 inch clay pot with slits along the sides. I've been watering mine about once a week and they are in direct sunlight for at least 4-5 hours. I have had five of them for about 2.5 years and they have grown very large and look as if they might bloom in a few months (i hope) and the other three I purchased this past summer. My latest acquisiton was not doing too well, but bounced back after 2 months. Some put out only new roots and others have been putting out new roots and growths. I'm sure your cattleyas will be fine as well. I just can't wait until they finally bloom after all the time and work I have put into them. |
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10-11-2007, 11:02 AM
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| The little cattleya is back in its pot with a rhisome clip to hold it in because all the roots are gone. I have a plastic bag over it and a humidity tray under it. Is there anything else I should do or can I relax for now? Thanks. |
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10-11-2007, 12:14 PM
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| Looks like you have done what you can, so sitting back and relaxing sounds good. It's up to the plant now.
__________________ "If nature ever showed her playfulness in the formation of plants, this is visible in the most striking way among the orchids. They take on the form of little birds, of lizards, of insects, a man, a woman, sometimes like a clown who excites our laughter. They represent the image of a lazy tortoise, a melancholy toad, an agile, ever-chattering monkey. Nature has formed orchid flowers in such a way that, unless they make us laugh, they surely excite our greatest admiration." Jacob Breynius |
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10-11-2007, 12:36 PM
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| Time to sit back and relax and wait. Remember, patience is a virtue... hey, does that make orchid growers virtuous?  |
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10-11-2007, 12:39 PM
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| Keep an eye on those bulbs. If they start to shrivel again, I'd go back to sphag and bag. Using rooting hormone on the base of the newest growth might help to stimulate a new growth faster, but you need to be able to wash it off after a new growth starts, so you probably don't want a lot of hormone powder sitting in the bark where the rhizome rests, as this is not very washable.
__________________ Cynthia Prescott Orchid Society |
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10-12-2007, 09:09 AM
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| What is the name of a rooting hormone? I used to buy Root-Tone, but I don't know if this is what you're recommending. I'm going to watch the little fellow closely, I can tell how badly he wants to live. I think maybe I should leave him alone for awhile and let him do his thing. |
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10-12-2007, 01:11 PM
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| Yes, root-tone is a rooting hormone. But I agree, sometimes leaving alone is best.
__________________ Cynthia Prescott Orchid Society |
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10-13-2007, 08:38 PM
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| Nancy, I had the same problem as you did with the Catt purchased in a bag from Lowe's. After following all of the instructions, and after about 3 months there was still no change. I had pretty much given it up for dead, and continued enjoying my dendrobiums and the one mature cattleya that I had received as a gift. I continued to water and feed the little "Lowe's Catt" as recommended. One year later, it finally produced new growth. I was elated. Three years later, the Catt is still small, compared to my others, but it now as six very healthy bulbs. It still has not bloomed. I believe the Lowe's Catts are produced from mass divisions, and may explain why they take so long to begin new, healthy growth. I've also read somewhere that a divided Catt can take up to 5 years to produce its first bloom (someone correct this if I am incorrect), given ideal conditions. The main thing I learned: patience. I took up knitting while waiting for my orchids to grow. Enjoy! Scott |
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10-13-2007, 10:14 PM
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