Checking For Mites

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

Here are a few methods of checking for mites:

1) Wipe the under side of leaves with a white tissue or cloth. If the cloth comes away with a rust color, you would have red mites or flat mites.

2) Feel the leaves for stickiness over an area. A few drops of honeydew at joints, especially on flowers, is normal, but over a large surface area is abnormal.

3) A silvery look to leaves. This is because mites are chlorophyll eaters. Sometimes it looks like a sandy white edging to the leaves. Any sprinkled white pin point spots should be suspected as mites. Severe scaring is late stage damage.

4) Look for near microscopic webs. A very light misting and good light sometimes helps to find them, and a magnifying glass helps. If you find super fine webs, and you see a tiny bit of dust on the web that slowly moves, that is a mite.

5) Hold the plant over a white piece of paper, and tap the plant. Never having done this one, I'm not sure what kind of tapping is in order. Look at any dark specks on the paper for movement.

6) Best of all is to look at the underside of leaves with a microscope. Seven power (.7X10) is good for scanning, but you will need something like 30 power to actually see the shape of the mites, tho red mites are quite a bit larger than spider mites. For a simpler, but very effective, way to go, use a hand lens or jeweler's loupe. Try to find a 4-5 power loupe, or as close as you can get. Start with the oldest leaves and look very carefully at the underside.


Flat/false mites generally are very slow moving and find a good location and stay there, kind of look like parked cars under a microscope. They do not make webs, and are red in my experience. These give you a rust color when you wipe the underside with a white cloth, but a 30 power pencil type hand held microscope should be used to verify the slow movement if these are suspected. Spider mites are pale green and red mites are reddish, but both are very active. There is an in-between sized mite I have seen that is green and a moderately slow mover. If it looks like mites, the best thing to use is Bayer Advanced 3 in 1 with the word 'mites' on the front of the label. Repeat treatment in 7-10 days for spider mites and 3 to 4 weeks for flat mites. Don't use Neem Oil, as I am finding too much damage from this oil.

[Dave]

Great info Cynthia...Thanks!

[Aniko]

Worthy to be pinned next to the "skewer method"

[Anton]

I think that I'll have to make a folder to store "Cynth's Tips n Tricks".

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

Sorry for this repeated post, but I really think this needs to be added to the sticky for mites. If you read this on the other thread, this is identical with nothing added or changed:

I have changed my technique for mites and for neem oil. I am pretty much convinced, but time will tell, that neem oil is stressful for many orchids, and the problems that arise, mottled foliage, leaf death for some plants, may not be caused by the neem oil directly, but that the stressed condition of the plants leaves them vulnerable to fungi and bacterial. I have been treating all plants getting neem oil with a systemic fungicide (and bacteriocide for Phyton 27) immediately before I use neem oil, and for several times over the next few weeks, to protect the weakened plants. I no longer use neem on everything when I find spider mites. I use a jewelers loupe to inspect each plant, and only treat the plants with mites. With over 700 plants in my greenhouse, this may seem an impossible task, but I have just completely eliminated a very extensive infestation of spider mites this way. It turns out that spider mites don't like an awful lot of plants. Catts, Phal, and the Phal type Dens (and the tough leaved Australian Dens) seem to be unacceptable to spider mites, so after a while I stoped checking these. However, they love most other Dens, Cymbidiums, Sobralias, and a lot of odds and ends. Those that showed mites got a certain colored tag. So now I know to keep rechecking these, and anything else that seems to be having any kind of trouble. The real trick to this is to have a really good system of 'seeing' these mites, so you know for sure which plants really need work. I can't emphasize enough the need to be able to 'see' these bugs. Treating plants that are free of mites is unnecessary and tough on the plants. Phal/flat/red mites are larger than spider mites, and should be even easier to see, which is good, because the spidermites are sometimes only seen as easily as they are because they are very active, and their movement helps. Flat mites just sit there doing nothing but sucking on plant juices. I have yet to see how extensive the tastes are for flat mites and if they are found more uniformly on the plants, or are limited to the plants they like as spidermites are.

I have been buying jewelers loupes, the kind that lodge in your eye, from surplus shed. $1.25 each, and a flat $5 for shipping, so look over their catalog, everything is cheap. I keep misplacing the loupes, so I bought a half dozen. One for the GH, one for my outdoor potting bench, one for my window sill where I occasionally keep plants, one for my light garden I have started, and a couple to use when I misplace one of the others

NEW: My current recommendation for mites is "Bayer Advanced 3 in 1". Make sure it is the "3 in 1", as none of the others have a miticide in them. Spraying the entire collection with this product apears to be the best method. Repeat the spraying once to be sure you have eliminated all the mites.

[kgately]

Hi Everyone,

This thread is really helpful, thanks!

My question is - Have any of you had experience with tiny white-ish bugs? My phal is in a clear plastic pot, and while watering it I noticed very tiny white bugs making their way around inside. The roots are all healthy looking, and the leaves aren't being chomped, so I'm not sure if this is necessarily a bad bug. I also noticed a smallish red spider, but I'm not sure it was a mite because it wasn't as small as these white bugs... I stopped looking when I saw that guys - I'm not a spider fan.

Also, my potting medium is bark, and since I've had the orchid (since Feb.) it's been very difficult to keep it from molding. Is there a trick to keeping the bark mold-free?

I'm prepared to repot if necessary, I just don't want to keep running into either of these problems. What do you all think?

[Tobi]

Kgately,
If the bugs are only in the bark, they could be fungal gnats. These little
pesky insects are more of a nuisance than they are harmful to your plants.
Especially if the bark is old and the medium is on the damp side. There are
several posts on what to treat them with. I have used a small amount of mild dish washing detergent (Dove) when I water and this usually takes
care of them with a couple of waterings. If they are on the leaves or blooms
then they might be something else.

[kgately]

Nothing on the leaves, and my blooms dropped within the last month. They had been in bloom since I bought it back in February at the Flower Show in Boston so I don't think it's related. I'm sure on the age of the medium but with the mold issue I'm sure it will have to be changed out soon. Thanks for your advice though! I'm going to try it in the meantime.

[viper]

are there any pictures of mites?

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

http://ipm.ncsu.edu/current_ipm/otimages.html
Check under T for two spotted mites, and under S for spider mites. Didn't see any red/Phal/flat mites there, but maybe you could search around on the site for them.

This is a good article.
http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/cropprot/mites.pdf

[Stefka]

Hello, i'm new to the forum and to orchids. I recently bought a Den and i believe it has a pest in it but i have no idea what it is. I've got black spots under the leaves and some of them are becoming yellow.
I started a post at this link Dendrobium Emma White- black spots + yellow leaf
Some of you on the forum suggested bug some mentionned mites. I've posted pictures of my den. do you think it is mites? these photos are from saturday and sunday and now the leaves are yellower than that.
Many thanks for reading

[Moothedan]

I have the same problem i have a phal and i moved a little bark around today and they scurried everywhere. So i took the plant out and dumped the bark sphag mix i had and it was unbelievable how many there were. If i repot should i use just bark or mix again. It was just coming back to life again after its first repotting. Not a very good root system but i noticed a few little new bumps coming off the old. help Thanks

[Moothedan]

How do you go about using the dove water?

[articuno75]

Originally Posted by Moothedan

How do you go about using the dove water?

The dish soap recipe:

1 tsp. cinnamon extract
5 -10 drops of phosphate free dishsoap, ie: Dove, Dawn, etc.
1 1/2 -2 cups of room temp water

This recipe is excellent for fighting fungi, cleaning leaves and mite teterant. Also great for reviving bareroot orchids when you first receive them. (Add more water, adjust accordingly.)

[articuno75]

Originally Posted by Moothedan

I have the same problem i have a phal and i moved a little bark around today and they scurried everywhere. So i took the plant out and dumped the bark sphag mix i had and it was unbelievable how many there were. If i repot should i use just bark or mix again. It was just coming back to life again after its first repotting. Not a very good root system but i noticed a few little new bumps coming off the old. help Thanks

Repotting would be a waste and you'd still have them, plus end up contaminating the new media with mites. Treat the mites first. As recommended try Neem Oil or the Dish Soap method. If you really have to crack down you can get the big guns and buy Bayer 3 in 1.

[articuno75]

Originally Posted by articuno75

Repotting would be a waste and you'd still have them, plus end up contaminating the new media with mites. Treat the mites first. As recommended try Neem Oil or the Dish Soap method. If you really have to crack down you can get the big guns and buy Bayer 3 in 1.

Oops, I didn't look at the date, silly me

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

I highly recommend staying away from the neem oil. It appears that the stuff is being stored incorrectly (55F to 85F specified storage temp) leading to a chemical change that is damaging to orchids. Since there is no way to check the product for previous abuse, better to just not use it. Save it for the roses.

[Tobi]

I don't think that Moothedan's problem is mites. If they are concentrated in the bark
only and are moving that fast (mites don't scurry that quickly), it still might be fungal
gnats or something else. How large are these Moothedan?

[ganim]

Jenny,

Hi, kinda wonder how i can use the dish soap formula/recipe .Mean, to how to administer it.

[articuno75]

Here are many ways you can use this:

1. You can use it as a spray.
2. You can use it to wipe/clean leaves.
3. You can use it as a soak/flush.
4. You can mist your plants with it.

I hope this helps.

[ganim]

Thanks Jenny

[HollyGwen]

Hi Viper,
I just had to write you when I saw your photo of the pitcher plant!! I now have a HUGE one and just love it! I don't know how common they are, but it just struck me funny when I saw it on this site! I'm an orchid freak, but that pitcher plant is almost my favorite plant!
HollyGwen

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

My mites are 'mites from hell'. They are totally unaffected by Bayer 3 in 1, the one with mites in big letters on the label. I am pretty desperate, but have taken the relaxed approach of picking up the mite beloved plants, carrying them out side and hosing off the under side of the leafs once a week or so. This does 2 nice things. It reduces mite levels to a point where the damage goes to near zero, and this particular treatment does not discourage the mites from congregation on their favorite plants, resulting in not having to worry much about their 2nd favorite plants. This was a problem before, when
I used a poison on a know favorite plant, only to have them move to a new plant, one I didn't realize they would infect, so wasn't treating until the damage became obvious.

[hera]

I've used Bayer Rose and Flower spray for two years now and have had good results. I spray when they are summering outside so the chemical dosen't come into the house. I suppose once it dries on the plant they would be safe to have inside.

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

The same chemical, imidacloprid, that is in the Rose and Flower is also in the 3 in 1, so no chance of it working on these mites.

[JLu]

Floramite! Git 'er done!

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

Well, I'll think about it for awhile. Smallest amount you can buy that I found was a quart for $235 plus shipping.

Have you used this on a very mixed collection, maybe some terete leaved orchids, with out damage?

[articuno75]

JLu What is Floramite exactly and how safe is it around animals and people? I'm not a chemical person, but say if I were to spray a plant with this stuff would it be safe for the kids to handle the plant? (My 4 year old daughter helps me sometimes and I don't let her handle the chemically treated plants anyway, but say others...)

[JLu]

OK, mite lesson. Mites are hard as Hades to kill and they can be extremely harmful. The large majority of insecticides are not effective. (mites are Arachnids like spiders, 8 legs)

I noticed several people here that are not happy with results using the very available Bayer products like the 3 in 1. The active ingredient in 3 in 1 (and Bayer Tree and Shrub Insect Killer) is Imidacloprid which is not recommended for control of mites. The Bayer product called "Rose and Flower Insect Killer" has Imidacloprid and beta-Cyfluthrin. The beta-Cyfluthrin is effective on mites and this product works pretty well for a general purpose product. The label on this product is "Caution". (More on that in a minute).

Floramite SC is designed for mites and it darn well kills mites. It is described on a well known and reliable web site for Roses as "the best miticide we have ever used". We used it once last Fall when we brought some mites in from outside and have not seen a mite since. In answer to Cynthia's question...I sprayed every plant in the GH almost 1000, from numerous genera and had no problem with any of them. Yes it's expensive at about $250 a quart, but you only use 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon per gallon so it lasts forever. It is also a mite ovicide. It kills mites at all stages so repeat treatment is usually not necessary. It is rated for 21 day residual activity, but on orchids there is usually not a problem with recurrence because our plants are not typically repeatedly attacked like outdoor plants are. Floramite is also marked "Caution"

Jenny asked about safety:

The warning labels on pesticides (in the United States) read like this:

Category I - Danger- Highly Toxic An example is Daconil Ultrex the fungicide that is widely available at big box stores.

Category II - Warning - Moderately Toxic An example is the miticide Avid or the fungicide Immunox both widely available at big box stores.

Category III - Caution - Slightly Toxic - Floramite and Bayer Rose and Flower Insect Killer are in this category. Neem Oil is in this category to give you a comparison. Products in this category frequently have a single mode of action that interrupts a single biological pathway in the target organism. This makes them safer because they are not universal poisons and they can be safer for beneficials and for our pets and ourselves. The downside is that the target organism can develop immunity to them so we have to keep changing them. Normal, responsible use of these is pretty safe.

Category IV - Relatively Non-Toxic - there are few items in this category but Clearys 3336 fungicide is here. If you've ever used it you probably know it won't kill much of anything.

Jenny, I'm not in the habit of making recommendations about what is safe and not safe for people to use. The reason is because I can not control how they do it. If you use Cat III products according to the label, they are pretty safe. I would NOT spray them or anything else (including worm tea which no one can tell you for sure is not a biohazard) inside my house and around food and drink. If you take the plants outside and spray them and allow them to dry before bringing them back inside, my opinion is that products in this category are not a safety hazard.
Read the label, remember it's designed to avoid law suits later so it's exaggerated, and make up your mind what is OK for you and your personal situation. Remember, even the things that we don't even think about (like fertilizers) can be harmful if abused. Proper use is the key to safety. Believe it or not the EPA and the companies are not interested in killing or harming people. You're likely in more danger driving to buy the stuff than using it in a responsible manner.

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

For the BA 3 in 1, it is not the imidacloprid the is the important ingredient, but Taufluvalinate (Mavric), which is supposed to be a good miticide, but any of these 'good' miticides can turn out 'bad' if you use them too much, which is what I must have done.

I am very happy to hear about the Clearys 3336, because that is what I have been using like water in my GH to eliminate the fusarium problem. So far, there does not appear to be any resistance developing, as it is still working on infected plants to carry them thru until they have new uninfected leaves. But I am considering the purchase of Heritage if I start to see a resistance building. Hearitage is good for fusarium and is supposed to be systemic from the roots upward, which would work well in my situation. But I guess I have to steel myself to the costs of these chemicals, as they are not sold in small quantities.

[JLu]

Cynthia, there is no doubt that Bayer has thoroughly screwed up the naming and confusion of these so called "Advanced" products. The bottle that I'm reading from of 3 in 1 has nothing but Imidacloprid. I looked on the web site and I see yours called "3 in 1 Insect and Mite Control". They seem to change this stuff (with only a minor name change) every time I go to the store. I urge everyone to read the label before buying any of these products. Some nutcase at Bayer has made this into an information disaster that I'm sure will cost them customers, including this one. You have to be crazy to create such a marketing mess.

In the case of Heritage (which is a turf product $300-400 per pound) you might look at other strobilurins like Compass which can be purchased in smaller quantities and have exactly the same mode of action. These products are very effective, but fungi become immune very quickly. You should alternate them (or tank mix them) with a broad spectrum fungicide such as Mancozeb, or Clearys if you prefer.

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

After spending some time reading up on the strobilurins, there is a difference in the nature of the systemic action. Heritage is upward systemic in plants, but the others appear to be locally systemic.

Fungicides- strobilurin fungicides

[arleneg]

I'm glad this thread was bumped up because I've been battling the mites since the weather here warmed up the last month.

I was thinking of buying Bayers 3-n-1, but am having second thoughts since it's been mentioned here that it doesn't work. Right now, I'm using worm tea to spray my orchids. I have PharmSolutions' Indoor Pharm spray and have used on a few infected orchids. A few days later, I notice leaf stress. So I'm at a loss on how to rid of the mites. Maybe I'll try Jenny's dishsoap mix.

Jenny -- Do you really use 1 1/2 to 2 cups of water with 5-10 drops of dishsoap?! That seems a lot of dishsoap for that little water.

[JLu]

Could be something to what you say. I don't know. Here is what I think I know. Nothing is really "systemic" in a plant because the plant has no circulatory system. Things can move up but not recirculate. None of these materials is actually transported in the plants water and sugar transport system. All the strobilurins are absorbed into the plant epidermal tissue but not into the water transport system. All are said to be "translaminar" meaning they spread over the foliage surface after application. This is important because fungicides need to contact the spores to kill them. One of the hardest things to accomplish in applying fungicides is complete coverage. This translaminar property solves that by spreading itself. All these materials are resistant to washing off because they are absorbed slightly into the epidermal tissue. Actually some moisture helps them in their complete surface coverage.

I have quite a bit of experience with Compass for non orchid use. It is a great product that meets all expectations. I know some large daylily hybridizers who used to use Heritage with equally good results. Most have now gone to Stryke or Headline because they are cheaper and work just as well. (A Florida daylily hybridizer has to spray fungicide every 7-10 days year round for a rust disease so material cost is a major issue).

You might also look up soybean rust to get some more ideas because there are several new products available now that Asian soybean rust is in the US.

I have used Compass on orchids. There were no problems and it worked to stop any current fungus growth and (I assume) prevent new outbreaks since I've been essentially fungus free. My guess is that Heritage will do just as well, but last time I looked, one pound is the smallest quantity you can buy and that will last you two lifetimes. Don't overuse any of these because resistance is a problem.

[JLu]

Arlene, look at the Bayer Rose and Flower Insect Killer. It's no sub for a great miticide, but its cheap and readily available. The problem with mites is that until you completely eliminate them, they keep coming back and you're in a continuous battle. That's why I think a good miticide is the best solution in the long run. You eliminate the problem and spray new plants before bringing them into your collection and with a little luck you never see mites again.

Please do not let Cynthia and I confuse you. We have been discussing fungicides on this thread that was originally about mites and miticides. Sorry for the confusing discussions.

[arleneg]

JLu,

I grow 90% of my orchids indoors. Is it safe to use indoors?!

At any rate, I visited Pharm Solutions' website and read that a 1:6 or 1:8 (PharmSolution to water) ratio will also work when used bi-weekly or weekly. All this time I've been using a 1:1 ratio. That's probably a bit too strong and the cause for leaf stress. So I'm going to try a very diluted PS and see how that goes in the next few weeks.

Thanks for clarifying your discussion with Cynthia.

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

Oh no Arlene, I have given you the wrong impression. I am sure that the Bayer Advanced 3 in 1 with the mites in big letters on the front of the bottle should work for you. What I said was that it was not working for ME. I think I did not do a thorough job the first couple or 3 times of use, and I let them adapt to the chemical. That is one of the problems with mites, they reproduce very fast and can mutate fast. But if you can use the stuff very thoroughly and reapply every week for 3 times, I think you might be able to get rid of them completely. Part of my problem is that the chaparral around my GH is infected with mites, and they have too many opportunities to re-enter my GH and require another round of the same BA stuff, and more chance to adapt. What I need to do is to rotate the poisons, which I don't have at the moment.

[articuno75]

Originally Posted by arleneg

I'm glad this thread was bumped up because I've been battling the mites since the weather here warmed up the last month.

I was thinking of buying Bayers 3-n-1, but am having second thoughts since it's been mentioned here that it doesn't work. Right now, I'm using worm tea to spray my orchids. I have PharmSolutions' Indoor Pharm spray and have used on a few infected orchids. A few days later, I notice leaf stress. So I'm at a loss on how to rid of the mites. Maybe I'll try Jenny's dishsoap mix.

Jenny -- Do you really use 1 1/2 to 2 cups of water with 5-10 drops of dishsoap?! That seems a lot of dishsoap for that little water.

Sorry that I didn't get to this sooner but YES. Sometimes more. I use it by spraying or dunking the orchids, then leaving it on for 15 to 30 minutes, then rinse it off. I wash them again the following week. No mites It's easy when you have a small amount of orchids. Cynthia would have a harder time trying to wash all 1000+ of hers.

[arleneg]

Thanks, Jenny! However, I won't be soaking all my 100+ orchids. I'll settle for spraying them down.

[articuno75]

Arlene~ Just a precaution. I did find some spider mites on the Gekkeikan that I got from Satomi. So you might want to wash your Neos!!!

[arleneg]

Jenny,

As soon as I arrived home from the show, I sprayed them with worm tea...to check for webbings. There were none. Then I looked closely for rusty colored dots/colony (mites). None. Whew. All three are fine.

I did that checking since bkim (or was it another member?) posted about pests in his/her Neo. from Satomi.

[arleneg]

Originally Posted by arleneg

...I have PharmSolutions' Indoor Pharm spray and have used on a few infected orchids. A few days later, I notice leaf stress.

CORRECTION:

Not all infected orchids I used Indoor Pharm on developed leaf stress. I believe the waxy leaved ones were the ones to suffer. I re-read the instructions (a year or so after the first reading) and realized I should have avoided spraying it on waxy and hairy leaves. Oops!

I'm back on using Indoor Pharm, but have diluted the solution a tad more. For the waxy or hairy leaves, I'll try the cinnamon/dishsoap recipe.

[mkduncan]

Mites are eating my epi's. Tried Bayer Rose and Flower and it knocked them back, but they moved around really quickly looking for another plant. Sprayed once a week and they laughed at me. I got some of the Bayer 3 and 1. What strengh should I use? Ideas? Follow directions? Seems intense. Took the 2 most effected outside and throughly washed them off. Now for the application?

[articuno75]

Hi Mkduncan and welcome to the forum.

The instructions on the bottle is something like 5 TBSP to a gallon. I never did use that much. I only did half that. Only once did I do the full strength, and it mottled my leaves on a couple of my plants. Don't care for the stuff and we have noticed that it's not very effective on spidermites at all.

Have you tried Brookn's Recipe?

You have to do a follow up treatment, but it works and it's safe.

[Joe Geoffroy]

Can someone tell me if using this formula for thrips and mites is correct?

70% Isopropyl alcohol mixed 50-50 with water and 1 tsp. of Dove soap and 1 tsp. of Neem oil.

This seems to be working for me at the present time but is it ok to continue?

Thanks for all your help

[NEBorch_grwr]

I had a problem with false/flat mites a couple years ago especially in my phals. That may be just where they started. By the time I was able to isolate the problem I had some scarred plants. Phals, paphs., softer leaved catts.(i.e. Buranna Beauty), but no oncids. were touched. I tried all the Bayer 3in1 sprays and such. It wouldn't even touch the problem. A commercial greenhouse owner in my OS told me to use a product called Triazicide by Spectracide. It claims to kill 180+ insects on contact.
It was time to repot the phals anyway, so I made a dip. Every phal. was unpotted and dipped then repotted and then spray treated again in a couple weeks for the next two months. It does claim a 2 mos. control on the bottle. I only lost 1 phal which I believe was due to stress from having to much mite damge to begin with. I keep it on hand but to me it's a "big gun" and won't hesitate to use it if needed. What I do now for any pest hotspots is a mixture of:
1 cp. Murphys Oil Soap (premixed-not concentrate)
1 cp. Isopropyl Alcohol 70%
1 cp. RO water.
Anytime I see something that looks like it could become a problem I hit it with spray and just as maintenance I spray the plants when it's watering time. Also can be used as a wipe with cotton balls. Mite larvae will appear as little white specks generally left around the scarred area of the leaves. Wiping the are with saturated cotton balls and then treating the area with spray ensures that nothing will be maturing to adult stage.
This formula was given to me by Alan Koch of Gold Country Orchids. The reason it works is it starves the mites because they don't like the taste. It's safe enough to use daily and has a somewhat pleasant odor. If spraying daily though just don't let set in the crowns of phals. or paphs. I have also found that spraying any plant in bloom may cause a shorter life for the blooms. Better the blooms than the plant. Definitely use caution when using the Triazicide by wearing a painters mask. If using in an outdoor area it's not as bad but a smaller area it's much stronger. I have treated a few in my bathtub with the window open and ventilating fan and then close the door for an hour or so. I also recommend rubber gloves if dipping or touching of the wet plants.
As I stated before I have had great success with these two treatments.

[Joe Geoffroy]

Thanks for the reply....I have used this Isopropyl solution mix for a couple of months now and I don't have any mites ot thrips...your solution sounds almost identical.

Has anyone else used this formula? and if so please let us know of your findings.
Thanks
joe

[janet_a]

my solution to mites is: amaryllii. i get red blotch mites and soft scale occasionally on them; i use an OTC premixed neem spray. (my solution to aphids is hibiscuses and a cyclamen. use a premixed pyrethin (sp?) on those.)

i think i've had maybe one infestation of something on the orchids over the years; the bugs all seem to go for the *other* tropicals instead.

so maybe get a sacrificial plant? otherwise, hitting 'em with the neem would probably do it, but you do have to re-apply.

[Stitz]

WoW! Sacrificial plants!!

That's a concept that I never considered!!! Thank You, Janet!

--Stitz--

[janet_a]

-snort-

[marisol]

Originally Posted by NEBorch_grwr

I had a problem with false/flat mites a couple years ago especially in my phals. That may be just where they started. By the time I was able to isolate the problem I had some scarred plants. Phals, paphs., softer leaved catts.(i.e. Buranna Beauty), but no oncids. were touched. I tried all the Bayer 3in1 sprays and such. It wouldn't even touch the problem. A commercial greenhouse owner in my OS told me to use a product called Triazicide by Spectracide. It claims to kill 180+ insects on contact.
It was time to repot the phals anyway, so I made a dip. Every phal. was unpotted and dipped then repotted and then spray treated again in a couple weeks for the next two months. It does claim a 2 mos. control on the bottle. I only lost 1 phal which I believe was due to stress from having to much mite damge to begin with. I keep it on hand but to me it's a "big gun" and won't hesitate to use it if needed. What I do now for any pest hotspots is a mixture of:
1 cp. Murphys Oil Soap (premixed-not concentrate)
1 cp. Isopropyl Alcohol 70%
1 cp. RO water.
Anytime I see something that looks like it could become a problem I hit it with spray and just as maintenance I spray the plants when it's watering time. Also can be used as a wipe with cotton balls. Mite larvae will appear as little white specks generally left around the scarred area of the leaves. Wiping the are with saturated cotton balls and then treating the area with spray ensures that nothing will be maturing to adult stage.
This formula was given to me by Alan Koch of Gold Country Orchids. The reason it works is it starves the mites because they don't like the taste. It's safe enough to use daily and has a somewhat pleasant odor. If spraying daily though just don't let set in the crowns of phals. or paphs. I have also found that spraying any plant in bloom may cause a shorter life for the blooms. Better the blooms than the plant. Definitely use caution when using the Triazicide by wearing a painters mask. If using in an outdoor area it's not as bad but a smaller area it's much stronger. I have treated a few in my bathtub with the window open and ventilating fan and then close the door for an hour or so. I also recommend rubber gloves if dipping or touching of the wet plants.
As I stated before I have had great success with these two treatments.

NEBorch,
Do you normally rinse the orchid after applying your formula?

I have a very bad problem with mites right now. So, I think I'll use your solution... For how long do I have to continue using the solution? Do you have any other tips to prevent mites in the future?

[Brooke]

Cynthia is no longer active on the forum but I'm sure she would say as needed. We do have another member from LasVegas who could possibly tell you how she waters since Vegas is very dry too.

Are you going to move to a desert location?

Brooke