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| The Following User Says Thank You to frostychic For This Useful Post: | ||
koshki (03-03-2010) | ||
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Frosty - I always tell myself that I am going to start a maintenance with insecticide - but end up not doing so. I will give all the plants a dose of systemic insecticide when I move them out for the summer, and will treat those plants if they need it afterwards. I also treat them when they come in, so I'm not bringing any nasty things into the house. I don't use the Bayer 3 in 1, I use a different Bayer product, but I think they are good for 30 days?? It should be on the label of the bottle. But one thing to remember, if you do go with a maintenance schedule of insecticides, consider changing the chemicals you use. Pretty much all living things will eventually develop resistance to things that kill it. By switching the chemicals periodically you reduce the chances of this happening. Physan I don't use - don't like it. When I develop fungus problems (and this winter has been awful) I either cut the part off, or use cinnamon/alcohol spray.
__________________ Renee "I carefully described to Huxley the shooting out of the pollinia in Catasetum, and received for an answer, 'Do you really think I can believe all that?'" - Darwin, 1868 |
| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to rcb For This Useful Post: | ||
frostychic (03-03-2010), koshki (03-03-2010) | ||
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Thanks rcb... I appreciate that info. Actually, I was shocked to see the big bugs that got knocked down by the Physan 20... I used the Physan 20 for the fungicide qualities (although the label says it is a disinfectant, sanitizer, deodorizer, fungicide, algaecide & virucide) ... I figured it would have been the Bayer 3-in-1 that would have done that... wonder what will happen if I just use an old fashioned soapy water combo? Oh, so I see then that chemicals are the same to orchid bugs as paste wormers are to horses... those too have to be rotated or the intestinal parasites will become immune to them & that particular type of wormer becomes much less effective... I think the same thing happens in our own bodies when we over-use antibiotics. Just curious... what is it about the Physan 20 that you don't like? Thanks again for your ideas... |
| The Following User Says Thank You to frostychic For This Useful Post: | ||
koshki (03-03-2010) | ||
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| Use them according to the directions on the bottle or at a slightly more dilute rate.
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to kmarch For This Useful Post: | ||
frostychic (03-04-2010), koshki (03-03-2010) | ||
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Some insects are so difficult to irradicate that I use the Bayer Advanced Flower Spray three times, seven days apart, even though the spray is a systemic. You should also treat the medium to kill any larvae lurking there. If you treat just the top, the eggs will hatch and start a new colony. Another thing you can do is immerse the pot in water and leave it there for a half hour and many bugs will abandon ship. You may have to put something on top of the medium to keep it from floating away.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to 11Orchid126 For This Useful Post: | ||
frostychic (03-04-2010) | ||
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I did give the entire collection quite a good spray... every bit of medium or piece of basket or pot or whatever... I sprayed them several times over a period of about 2 hours. I did however consider that whole imersion idea... I had thought that a 5 gallon bucket would have come in handy for a couple of my vandas with their wide girth & length of roots & such. That would be a cheap investment of about $3.00US to get a clean un-used 5gallon bucket from Lowes & use it as a dunking tank I can see it now... creepie-crawlies abonding their cushy likkle dwellings like rats off of a sinking ship... thanks for that idea |
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As a secondary thought... I don't think I was quite as thorough with the Bayer product when I applied it as I was with the Physan 20. That in itself could be the reason I saw so many downed bugs after the Physan treatment... I just did a better job of flushing them out! Another reason to get a dunk tank. |
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