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Old 12-25-2008, 11:39 PM
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A Question on Phalenopsis Growing in the Wild

Does any one have any diagrams/photos of how Phalenopsis actually cling to trees in the wild?

Any Information is appreciated
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Old 12-25-2008, 11:43 PM
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I am eventually planning to mount one of my chids on a block of wood or cork or something... and This information will be very helpful in giving my chid a headstart with the mount
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Old 12-26-2008, 12:30 AM
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Have you noted before how ivy clings to the side of vertical buildings? Phal roots likewise attach themselves to the sides of tree limbs. The white outer layer of their roots consists
of the velamen, a structure of empty, dead cells that absorbs water quickly during rains. These roots have the ability to flatten and
attach the orchid firmly through tiny filaments to tree bark.
Though I have not personally mounted any we have someone in our local orchid society who mounts ALL of his phals - initially they must be attached to their new home with something like fishing line until they grow new roots. Good luck!
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Old 12-26-2008, 01:46 AM
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Here's one pic: http://www.nationaalherbarium.nl/pub...aAS_97-135.jpg
and another: http://www.ibanorum.netfirms.com/Lun...hidB190207.jpg
and another: http://www.ibanorum.netfirms.com/Lundu-orchid190207.jpg
and yet another: http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1354/...247c3b.jpg?v=0
and finally one more: http://www.orchidspecies.com/orphotd...mboinensis.jpg
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Old 12-26-2008, 06:55 AM
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Here is a picture of Phal. gigantea mounted on tree fern.



Here is Phal. celebensis mounted on tree fern.



Phal. cochlearis is mounted on a limestone rock.



Phals love to be mounted but require more care than pot culture.

Brooke
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Old 12-26-2008, 10:57 AM
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I think mounted Phals take less care than potted ones. I grow mine next to my Cattleya. The 'top' of the leaf is almost non-sensitive to sunlight but the 'bottom' is super sensitive since it is genetically engineered to absorb the lower bounced light from the forest floor. The flowers hang beautifully with a stake without danger of breaking. The leaves also tend to grow away from each other about half covering the previous leaf rather than lying limp on each other in a pot.

They just need to be watered more often. You never have to worry about crown rot since the water can not sit in the crown when it points down.

There are many mounted photos in our orchid gallery on the forum. I really think that the members of the forum do not get the best use from the gallery. Here is just one in full bloom

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Old 12-26-2008, 11:50 AM
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It appears all phals love to be mounted but not all phals will grow down and hang naturally. Any phal that grows in an upright manner in a pot will eventually reorient their leaves to grow to the strongest light.

Here is an example of Phal. Sogo Manager 'Kuo' which I mounted with the leaves originally pointed down. You can see the two newest leaves have grown up.



Here is Phal. pulchra growing in a pot with all of it's keikis. Note the growth habit of the leaves.



This is the pulchra mounted and the new leaves again point up even though I mounted them all pointing down.



This is a mount I tip upside down and shake before I rehang it to make sure the crowns of the plants are water free so I don't run the risk of crown rot.

Check the growth habit of your phal so you will know if you have an "upper" or "downer" type grower. The phals that want to lay flat and grow over the edge of the pot are the prettiest ones mounted.

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Old 12-26-2008, 01:37 PM
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Thanks a lot People Each one of these pics deserve a Portrait....
Appreciate ur feedback
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Old 12-26-2008, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrymeola View Post
I think mounted Phals take less care than potted ones. They are not light sensitive when hung naturally. I grow mine next to my Cattleya. The 'top' of the leaf is almost non-sensitive to sunlight but the 'bottom' is super sensitive since it is genetically engineered to absorb the lower bounced light from the forest floor.
Really Jerry???? I didn't know that and I find it very interesting about the light sensitivity. I agree with you that mounted phals are easier, largely because I just wet them and don't worry about where the water is settling. (I hang my downward also.) They do, of course, need watering much more often but I think it is worth the trade-off.

I mean, sheesh....look at all the above pictures of mounted phals!!!
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Old 12-26-2008, 06:25 PM
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Any light sufficiently bright will burn a leaf, plain and simple. I have a feeling that what Jerry's suggesting is that his mounted phals are healthier and therefore less susceptible to stress. Phals, mounted or not, as any orchid, are easy to grow in they find themselves in conditions they like. Brooke and Jerry have excellent conditions in which they are growing their mounted phals.

I'm going to say something somewhat controversial: I dont' believe there's any such thing as "easy" or "difficult" orchids, only "ideal or "less than ideal" conditions. Given ideal conditions ("ideal" meaning whatever conditions the orchid wants/expects) any orchid is "easy." In this respect orchids are no different than dandelions, or oak trees, or giant kelp or grass or any other plant. For example in Michigan I had a "difficult" time growing nobile-type dens and avoided them. They died on me. But here in Melbourne Australia I grow them outdoors and they're one of the easiest orchids I have, very little attention required yet lots of growth and regular flowering. Same grower, same habits, same orchid, "easy" in one place, "difficult" (e.g. dead) in another place. The significant difference? The climate/conditions under which the plants were grown. One is ideal for nobile-type dens, the other is not.
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Old 12-27-2008, 12:56 PM
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In re-reading my above post it may have sounded like I was questioning what Jerry had said, but that is not what was intended at all!!! I just found it interesting and new. It would make sense that the tops or undersides of leaves would have different tolerances.

Kevin you couldn't be more right about what is easy, hard, or impossible. Cyms are easy in California because they grow themselves, no knowledge required. In fact, any fool with a garden hose can grow them!!!!! They are nearly impossible in Florida even though the two climates seem similiar. For all of you Geeks sitting in the frigid north right now - sunny all the time doesn't mean they are the same, not better or worse, but not the same.

I also think any orchid can be grown anywhere if the grower is willing to jump through all the hoops to make the conditions suitable. I am not yet willing to go to such measures and prefer to keep to what grows best at my house. So far - Cyms, Paphs, and Phals. The jury is still out on Catts.
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Old 12-27-2008, 06:02 PM
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Connie you should consider concentrating your catts in the laelia family. They can take the hot and your idea of cold :>) weather in the area.

If I could only grow one family of catts, I would be happy staying in the Laelia group.

Brooke
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Old 12-28-2008, 11:00 AM
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Great thread!

I have a handful of Phals and one is a keiki that I originally mounted on a rock but I just "wasn't feelin' it" and decided to move it...

I was searching for ideas and as I was driving down our farm driveway (nearly a mile long) there was a really large tree limb that had fallen right in the middle of the drive. When I got out to move it I saw all the knott holes on it and the places where the bark had fallen off showing the grain of the outside of the limb... I got an idea and I proceeded to take this large limb to Mr. Frosty and ask him to cut it "here & here"... then we drilled holes in both ends of the limb so I could hang it and since I wasn't quite sure at the moment "how" I was gonna hang it I wanted to keep my options open.

I have since mounted 4 phals onto this piece and have been looking, cooing, and fiddling with it ever since. I love the look of it but geez louise it does take a lot of spraying... (one of the reasons I abandoned the keiki on the rock mount.)

But on Christmas Eve I did add some more moss and an additional "weave" of something to hold it there as I'm thinking that if I can get the roots to cling to the wood (like my other two phals... one in a tree limb mount and one in a cedar basket) then I can probably remove some of the weave (which I don't like the look of and have been trying to figure a different way to use it & keep the moss up to the roots so I don't have to water sometimes twice daily)...

Lemme see if I took a photo or two of the mount. I did this project originally on Dec. 13, 2008... it was a dreary & overcast day so my light was only artificial for these photos.

These phals were all in a large container together and none were doing well... I recognized that I had meelie bugs and decided that it was best for me to remove these phals so that is why they are not robust like my other two growing in different mediums. Each is showing me new root growth though...
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A Question on Phalenopsis Growing in the Wild-mounted-full-view-dec.-13-2008.jpg   A Question on Phalenopsis Growing in the Wild-mounted-middle-phal-dec.-13-2008.jpg   A Question on Phalenopsis Growing in the Wild-mounted-close-up-dec.-13-2008.jpg   A Question on Phalenopsis Growing in the Wild-mounted-dec.-13-2008.jpg  
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Old 12-30-2008, 10:15 PM
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I have killed my share of Phal. gigantee but keep trying, this latest one I mounted and it bloomed and new leaf is coming on strong. I have started mounting other Phal's that I have been having trouble to see how they do, know more in the spring.
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Old 12-31-2008, 12:26 AM
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Nice examples. I like the mounted Phals. So pretty.
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:37 PM
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Very nice Frosty!!! Just let the roots do what they want to do now that you have them mounted. Some like to adhere very tightly, almost becoming part of the mount itself. Others throw lots of aerial roots and take a light hold.
Genetics will determine which kind you have, so don't fight Mother Nature! (you won't win, trust me....)
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:45 PM
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Thanks for the suggestion Brooke. A year ago I purchased several different crosses, L. anceps, BLC's, Slc's and just plain catts. I used them to experiment, growing some mounted and others in pots, some attached to palm trees. I kept them all outside and didn't fuss too much, they were 'experimental' and I had to keep hands off (that was hard!!!) so I would know what would grow easily.
A year later I have determined that the Laelia species and Lc's are very suitable for growing outside in my area. They handled the winter fine but I need to protect them from direct sun in summer and soak them with a hose, easy enough.
Below is Lc Jungle Elf 'Carmela', one of my few success. I feel a road trip to Santa Barbara Orchid Estate in my near future; they have some gorgeous L. anceps!
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Old 12-31-2008, 06:15 PM
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Don't forget to check out the L. purpurata too. There are so many variable ones in the purpurata family, I would be happy with all of them.

Brooke
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Old 12-31-2008, 10:25 PM
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Ahhh....I forgot about the L. purpurate that bloomed for me earlier this year. I bought two at the same time, one is doing well and the other is circling the drain. Go figure!
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Old 01-13-2009, 10:14 PM
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I believe the most difficult thing about growing any orchid is meeting their growing requirements, some are easier to grow in Florida than other in a northern states like wise some that are easier to grow there are very difficult to grow here.

As I remember my botany there is a difference in the top and bottom of leaves, the underside has stomates (think that is the correct name) which are there because they are sensitive to too much light so sun light could affect them.
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Old 01-14-2009, 11:33 AM
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PhalPal,
I hope you are right when you say "any fool with a garden hose can grow cyms" I have just acquired two . I don't know about the fool part but I do have a garden hose. I guess the real test is if they re bloom for me . I'm hoping with all the advice I get here That I can at least keep from killing them.

Margaret
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