Newbie question...which material(s) are best for mounting...

[katrina]

Hi Everyone!

I just bought my first mounted orchid and it's so pretty it's inspired me to try mounting a few of my other orchids. I've always loved the look but just never had the nerve to give it a try.

After doing quite a bit of research on the subject, I believe I can do it however, I haven't found anything that states what might be best for the home environment (rather than greenhouse). (ie -- dryer winter conditions)

I live in Columbus, OH so during the winter...try as I might...I can never successfully maintain high humidity levels. I'm looking to mount a couple of my cats/cat alliance plants. I've read that Cats are better candidates (lower humidity during winter) than some of the others I have.

Which do you think would be better for the home environment...cork slab, tree fern or grapevine? Does one hold more moisture better than the other? Are there any major cultural differences between the 3?

BTW -- I didn't add hardwood in the mix because I've read it's prone to breaking down rather quickly. Feedback on this subject would also be welcome as my husband does woodworking w/natural slabs/logs and we have a bunch of white oak limbs in the garage currently that he would gladly donate for the cause. :-)

Any and all suggestions/experience/advice is greatly appreciated!

Thanks so much!
Kat~

[solay]

I've used cork only so far so I can't compare it to any other options. The orchids seem to like being mounted on the cork and I don't run into rot problems. I added moss to help retain more moisture.

Of course others will come along that have more experience with the different options and can help you decide. Good luck. Mounted orchids are just so beautiful. You must try it.

[Andrew]

The water holding capacities of mounts can be quite different. Of the three mounts you're considering treefern is has the best water holding capacity so it may be your best option if your humidity is low. Cork is somewhat water repellent and dries quickly so it may not be the best choice for you. The water holding capacity of woods like grape vine lies somewhere in between. The surface of the wood isn't as water repellent as cork so it can hold some water (particularly as it starts to decompose) but the water doesn't permeate throughout the mount as it does for treefern.
As for hardwood, it's perfectly fine to use as a mount. It's reasonably long lived and the water holding capacity is probably similar to grapevine. I suspect the info you've heard about hardwood breaking down quickly relates to its use as a potting medium, which is largely true. As a mount it, outlasts treefern and I have several orchids mounted on both hardwood fence palings and paperbark which are doing just fine. If the wood is fresh it may be worth weathering them for a few months before use.

[bkim]

People mount on all sorts of things. Hardwood, logs, branches, clay pots, lava rock, cork, epiweb, driftwood, trees, etc.

What you need to look for are the following:
1) Softer woods decompose quicker. Since roots stick to the surface of the mount, it makes it prohibitive to transplanting. The longer the mount lasts the better. Of course inorganic materials won't have this problem. Pick dense woods or those naturally resistant to rot like cedar.
2) Orchids with thin roots like oncidiums do better with rough surfaced mounts. The nooks and crannies help the orchid get a grip. Those with thicker roots do better with smoother surfaces.
3) Know how the orchid grows. Certain orchids are climbers and do better with tall mounts.

Regardless of what you pick you want to make sure its prepped correctly. Cleaning and removing salts is critical.

Expect to water frequently unless you live in a high humidity area or you grow in a GH. They can dry out quite fast.

[katrina]

Thanks so much bkim, Andrew and solay!

Hmmm...now I have more questions popping to mind.

The mount I purchased is on cork slab...would you recommend it be soaked in the morning a bit...then mist later...to help w/humidity? Would that make much difference? Or, maybe just add sphagnum around the roots? It currently doesn't have anything except a little bit of the long ornamental moss stuff you find for planter top-dressing.

Side note: If misting is better than soaking...I work out of my home so misting frequently throughout the day isn't a problem. I currently mist 2x/day in the winter anyway...adding a few more times for the mounted plants would be easy to accommodate.

Regarding the prepping of the mounts. When using cork or tree fern bought from an orchid supplier...should I still prep it? Or, can I assume it's safe and ready to use? If it needs to be cleaned...I didn't see anything on that process...how do you remove salts?

WOW! There's so much to consider. Perhaps, I'll try all 3. (The oak is fresh and since that should dry a bit...it'll have to wait.) I divided some plants this month and instead of giving them away/trading, I think I'll sacrifice them for my test.

Thanks again for all the help with this!

Kat~

[bkim]

Mounts from reputable suppliers should be safe but your can check with them to be sure.

You want to soak your mount in water with fertilizer and a rooting hormone for at least 24 hrs. Soaking in regular water removes impurities and salts from the wood. This is especially important when using driftwood for a mount.

Do not use the ornamental moss you find in stores. Look for sphagum moss sold for orchids. If you use some at the roots, it can cut down on the amount of misting you need to do.

I'd also suggest getting a room humidifier during the winter months to increase RH. That can help cut back on the amount of misting required.

[katrina]

Hey bkim - THANKS! I appreciate your help.

[jerrymeola]

What you read about woods deteriorating was about soft woods like driftwood pine. Hard woods like oak, cypress, and cedar will last 8-10 years similar to grapevine which is another hard wood.

None have much water retention property. You should expect to water a mount 2-3 times as often as you water the same plant in a pot.

I really dislike the term misting. If it is truly a light mist it is a worthless effort. You need to soak the roots so that there is enough water for long enough to be carried into the plant and circulated in the plant for its needs. Misting drys to quick. If you are really using a mister to soak the roots that is OK.

Lack of sufficient water will seldom kill a mounted orchid, but it will cause it to go into hibernation and growth will slow and may fail to flower. The other end it is just about impossible to over-water a mount. I often forget to remove a mount I am soaking and leave it overnight. It does not cause any harm.

[katrina]

Hi Jerry -- thanks for the info on the wood.

Ahhh....interesting about the misting. I guess I spray more than I mist. I use a 2.5 gallon pressurized sprayer (distilled water) and I actually spray everything enough that the media gets damp on top and the leaves get a little moisture too. Does that sound sufficient?

As for mounted...sounds like soaking each morning and spraying down a couple times throughout the day. Definitely glad I'm using my duplicate divisions for this. It'll be fun to see how things work out.

Thanks everyone for all the tips/hints and advice!

[Brooke]

If you use tree fern you will notice the fibers of the tree fern will run horizontal or vertical depending on how you hold it. If I have a plant that wants more moisture like a bulbo, I mount the plant with the fibers running horizontal because the water is trapped in the fibers. Even in a g/h I am not going to water anything more than once a day :>)

For a plant that needs to dry out by night time. keep the fibers in a vertical position. The trapped water runs out much faster.

Catts + Columbus, OH + long winter = run the fibers horizontal. With most catts watering is at a minimum in the winter and you might not have to even water every day, let alone multiple times a day.

If you want to try hardwood mounts, you should be able to find cedar planks at your grocery that are used for charcoal grilling. They are a great size and are about $5 for two of them.

Brooke

[katrina]

Excellent! Thanks Brooke!

I'm more and more excited about giving this a try! I think I'll go w/the cedar planks and the tree fern and see what happens. IF I can find everything by Saturday...weekend project!!

[jerrymeola]

Your spraying method is usually sufficient and not what I worry about when I hear misting.

On a mount there is always the danger that there is not enough water to reach into the center of the sphagnum. If you keep the sphag moist this is not a problem, but if it dries to where it becomes hard I would soak it.

Over about two years all the new roots will be on the outside of the sphagnum and the roots inside will die off. This is a natural progression and you do not need to be concerned. The outside roots will of course dry faster. I do not recommend adding more sphag. The roots look good outside and only require more regular watering.

[made4engineering]

Originally Posted by bkim

Do not use the ornamental moss you find in stores.

I use moss found in hobby/craft stores. I now have three different types of live moss growing with my orchids. It looks MUCH better than dead moss, and live moss doesn't rot. Just make sure you get real moss that isnt dyed.

[katrina]

Thanks Jerry and Aaron! I'm like a sponge right now and the more info I can get before diving in...the better.

I don't often go to craft stores...so I didn't even know there was a live moss available. Sounds like it would be very attractive w/the orchids. I'll have to check it out!

[bkim]

I am envious of those who can grow sphagnum moss in their GH and use that for their plants. I hear live sphagnum is great for orchids.

[katrina]

Has anyone ever used moss from a shady area in their yard? Or, the woods?

Around here we have some beautiful mosses growing on their own...little sheets of the stuff everywhere in shady, wooded areas. I wonder how that would work out? Or, might that be asking for trouble?

[brookn]

bkim- I've been thinking of starting some sphag growing, I hear it's wonderful for the orchids. I was also wondering, if you have tried the Epiweb? I have heard some good things about it here and there, but it is seldom (if ever) mentioned to be in use by anyone on this forum. Anyway, I was just wondering if you had any insight on the Epiweb for me . Sorry to hijack Katrina.

[katrina]

No need to apologize...I don't believe you're hijacking. It's all good info and definitely in the same vein as what we're talking about.

I've never heard of Epiweb...gave me something else to look into. I checked it out and found a site that has some pretty cool shapes/forms. Kudos to the eco-friendly aspect!

Hmmm...might have to give the "branch" form a try to a mount.

[Brassavola]

I have two mounted orchids on cork (cattleya and brassavola) and I have kept them in the house (humidity is max 65%) until last week (I have bought a small indoor greenhouse for my mounted and carnivorous plants). The roots are covered in moss in order to keep them constantly moist (cattleya violacea is a specie that requires constant watering, unlike other catts that have a resting period), and I sprayed the moss every day, but it got dry to fast. So I think you could have a problem with your cork mounted plants. I mean, they might grow and develop, but never flower.

[katrina]

Hey Brassavola!

Thanks for sharing your experience. No flowers? That's definitely not what I want. It seems the consensus is that cork might not be the best bet for me so I've opted to keep my cork mounted plant in w/my baby vandas -- it's a 55gal aquarium that I converted to a sort of homemade "orchid-arium" type housing. Actually...I suppose it's really more of a semi-enclosed humidity tray. Anyway...the current mount is on there pretty good and I'm afraid I'll do more damage than good by removing it at this time. My aquarium set up stays between 75% and 90% humidity...I think that will help. The baby vandas sure were happy last year so I think it just might work.

As for any other mountings I do...I'm going to stick w/the advise of using tree fern. I'm hoping for the best! Maybe try one on the cedar...I haven't decided yet.

BTW - I wouldn't be brave enough to use one of my Brassavolas for the experiment...they're some of my favorites and I'd hate to lose them. If I can make the catts work...I'll consider some other plants after this winter.

Thanks again for sharing your experience!

[Brassavola]

The aquarium is a great idea!
Where do you get mount material? Because, here where I live, it is almost impossible to find an adequate mount. At most times you have to make a trip to the nearby forest.
I love Brassavolas as well (thus the nickname ), I think the mounted one in the terrarium is developing flowers! It's too early to see what it really is.