container size in S/H? repotting?

[Fishmom]

I know that most orchids prefer to be cozy in their pots, with just enough room to fit without growing over the side of the container. How about with S/H growing? Does the size of the container matter? Or the height, as compared to the diameter?

And what about repotting? I've put previously-bark-grown phals in LECA with good success, but what if a plant does not do well in S/H? How do the roots fare when put back into a bark mix? Periodic repotting due to media breakdown will not be required; are there other reasons to repot besides size?

[tom499]

Pot size is still very important for growing S/H.

For me, the most important factor is getting the plant at the right high above the reservoir so that the roots can get enough moisture without being too wet or too dry.

This of course depends on the plant, and I will only pot them into S/H when the new growths are coming through, as this is the best time for the plant to adapt to new media.

I repot up my plants when in S/H when they get too big for their pot.

I will also take them out their pots when the build up of algae is getting ugly.

It also allows the hydroton to be properly washed, removing excess salts which can buiild up.

[NancyG]

Hi Fishmom,

Use the same guidelines for size of pot when using s/h as any other repotting. Don't go too big just a size up and like tom says to keep roots above reservoir. With phals I wrap the roots in sphag and then put that in the middle of hydroton rock from first rays. I tried it for awhile without the sphag and the phals did not like it. Mine need some sphag around the roots just to give them a little more moisture. I water then once a week.

Good luck,
NancyG

[NancyG]

Fishmom,

I forgot to mention that for phals I use a clay pot instead of a plastic pot with the two holes so it isn't exactly s/h. For my other catts and dens they are in the typical plastic s/h container without sphag.

NancyG

[Fishmom]

Thanks for these comments, everyone. I appreciate the discussion. I created my own S/H containers with a dremel, and I think I may have "overpotted" an oncidium in a container that was too large--it is about the size of a bleach jug but clear. However, the plant is responding nicely, sending out considerable new root growth and a new top shoot. It was one that has had wrinkled leaves for a long time, due to my apparent inability to provide enough water, so I'm hoping that S/H with a more constant moisture source will give better growing conditions.

[LouisW]

One thing that i think is very important is to pot your plant in the same water level as it was before, no matter what size pot you plant it in. For example say your draniage holes are one inch above the bottom of the container. The roots below the holes are accustomed to being fully underwater, and the may suffer if, when you ropot them, they are not fully underwater. So now, if you repot them into a pot with the drainage holes two inches above the bottom then you should put an inch of new hydroton down and then set your rootball onto that. That way all the roots that were in the resevoir still are and none of the ones that were not are.

I think the bottom line is that if you change the environment around existing roots you run the risk of killing them so try to keep it as similar as possible.

[Ray]

I find that pot size is less important with s/h in general than it is with other cultural techniques.

I put a 2" Onc. Sharry Baby in 12" pot, and it grew and grew.

[brookn]

Hi Ray! Welcome to Geeks. Nice to have you as a member as we have lots of members interested in the s/h method of growing.

[Danelady]

Ok, I finaly have to admit to my ignorance!
I keep seeing S/H, but what is it??
I'm sure it's simple and obvious, but so far I haven't figured it out!!

[LouisW]

Danelady, S/H stands for semi-hydroponic. If you want to know more about it check out Jays tutorial thread that is listed a sticky in the semi-hydroponic section of the forum.

[Danelady]

Thanks! I'll have to look into that!

[CulpableCaptive]

Originally Posted by Fishmom

Thanks for these comments, everyone. I appreciate the discussion. I created my own S/H containers with a dremel, and I think I may have "overpotted" an oncidium in a container that was too large--it is about the size of a bleach jug but clear. However, the plant is responding nicely, sending out considerable new root growth and a new top shoot. It was one that has had wrinkled leaves for a long time, due to my apparent inability to provide enough water, so I'm hoping that S/H with a more constant moisture source will give better growing conditions.

You are probably right about the better growing conditions.
At least ‘I’ have found it to be true.

I use the same method with passive hydroponics as I would use with decomposing medium as far as pot size goes. I try to use the smallest pot I can with one added detail – I make sure when the orchid is first planted there aren’t any roots in the water reservoir. As those roots grow later on - and they will - they will be water roots and of a different makeup than the roots above them.
So the container would actually be a bit deeper than usual. I fill the bottom of the pot - with the inert medium of choice - up to the drainage holes (overflow holes), then add about one quarter inch more medium and THEN plant as usual but with inert potting medium.
Later roots will grow into the water reservoir and will NOT rot.

Just as an aside – over-potting in Hydroton (LECA) does NOT cause any adverse affects. The physics of wicking will keep the medium at the same moisture level up to about 8 – 10 inches with a one to two inch well. I also make my own pots.
I have also been finding I prefer the pot and saucer method as time passes. I use a clear pot – or the same pot I would use if I were making side overflow holes but make the holes on the bottom like a ‘regular’ pot and use a deep saucer in which I can keep an inch or deeper reservoir. In my case, it makes it easier to flush the pots or I will water with worm castings tea and fill the saucer with purified water. I seam to have more options and control over what is sitting in the well, with the pot and saucer method but that may be my imagination.

When I re-pot a plant because it has grown too tall (and needs to be lowered) or is not growing at an angle I find particularly pleasing – I do my best to use the same size pot even if that means trimming a bit off the bottom of the monopodial orchid and some of the roots.

It’s my opinion, orchids and other plants are more likely to succeed in pots which accommodate their roots because of water holding capacity of the potting medium. When plants are over-potted the bark (or other medium which decomposes) can stay wet too long and cause root problems – if the pot is too small it can be difficult to keep the plant watered properly when root-bound. These principles do not apply with passive hydroponics. There isn’t any decomposition taking place, which would cause the medium to be more water retentive. With passive-hydro the medium holds the same amount of moisture and air indefinitely since the particles are not decomposing into smaller and smaller pieces.

I have not grown every plant on earth in passive hydroponics or have I grown every orchid available in passive-hydro but the ones I have converted, have benefited tremendously.

Any plants such as bromeliads, lithophytes, epiphytes, semi-terrestrials, bog plants, plants which grow on moss in their natural habitat or those which inhabit leaf litter and do not send roots down into the soil and those plants which enjoy moist airy soil – have all done well for me in passive hydroponics. I even have a few succulents growing and thriving in passive-hydro. My largest passive-hydro pot for my orchids and other small plants is 5 ½ inches tall by 4 ½ inches wide – the next size and only size I use larger, is 10 inches by 9 inches.

[e-spice]

I have grown 98% of my orchids semihydroponically since 2002 and have noticed that generally a plant will do best if potted in the smallest pot possible.

e-spice

[janet_a]

ray! dude! -waves-

for me, really small plants will go in starbucks tall iced coffee cups; otherwise i use the half-quart chinese food sized ones. i have a couple of ray's 6 inch s/h pots, but nothing's big enough to go in them yet, although the sharry baby may get there in a couple years.

in fact, i'm readying to do battle with my Lc this weekend; it needs to be repotted, and i was idly considering dividing it and putting half in s/h just to see what would happen. i discovered the back half of the plant is putting out a new growth as well as the front half, so that's decided it. been cleaning a bucket of LECA for four days. loads of fun.

[delphiguy]

i've alot of things about s/h, and it is really making me want to try it. i will eventually
try it, once i get to find some suitable suppliers locally.