S/H method explained

[jay]

There has been an exponential growth of new members on the site and a lot of questions about S/H (Semi - Hydroponic) method of growing orchids. I am by no means an expert, but will do my best to teach the basics of this method. This method was first used/created by Ray Barklow. Nearly all types of orchids can be very successful in this culture, the one exception that I know of is Tolumnia’s, which will die in S/H. I personally have my whole collection in S/H which includes, but is not limited to: Phalaenopsis, Paphiopedilum, Oncidium, Phragmepidium, Cattleya, Dendrobium, Neofinetia, and Catasetinae.

**Disclaimer - I have found this method to be very successful for myself in my growing conditions. Different people will have different successes with the same method depending on local conditions. This is not an end all and save all method.**

Step 1 - Repotting at the right time. Ideally you want to repot into S/H when there is active root growth. This is done because the new roots will be able to acclimate to the new culture better than old roots will. Old roots may die off when transplanted into S/H.

Step 2 - Preparing the LECA (Light Expanded Clay Aggregate) or little clay balls. The LECA is very dusty and may have some mineral salts from the firing process. Make sure that you rinse it thoroughly several times to remove all the dust. I will put it in a large mixing bowl and swirl, agitate, dump water, and refill it several times. I will continue to do this until the water is clear. Then I will soak the LECA overnight in a worm tea / superthrive solution. (You don’t need either, but I like to use them)

Step 3 - Choosing the right size container. This is very important. You want a container so that the roots of the plant will be about one inch above the drainage holes when potted up. In picture 1 below you can see some examples of pots. I have made my own from deli containers, food storage container, and I have bought some from FirstRays.com. If you use a container that is too shallow, then the old roots may get too wet and die. If you use a container that is too tall, then the LECA will not be able to wick the water up enough and the roots will dry out and die. It is Ok if the roots go into the reservoir themselves since they will be adjusting to the new environment as you can see this Phrag. Jason Fischer has done in picture 2.

Step 4 - Potting it up. Fill the bottom of the container with your pre-treated LECA. This line should be about 1 inch above the drainage holes. Make sure that you have removed all of the organic potting material from the roots of your plant. I have left some very small pieces of bark on the roots to prevent damage from removal, and they were fine in the S/H. Just be careful that there is not a lot of this material. Carefully place your plant in the container and begin to fill in the gaps with the LECA that you pre-treated. Tap the container as you do this to help fill in the gaps. Try not to have the LECA cover up leaves or new growths, or too high up the base of the plant. Picture 3 shows some various plants in different size containers. Picture 4 shows how crazy the roots are growing on this Noid Dendrobium. Picture 5 shows how I have lowered the plant in the pot so it's new roots are about 1 inch above the reservoir. As this plant grows I will carefully lift it up and fill in the bottom with more LECA.

Step 5 - Watering and Fertilizer. I personally use a MSU type fertilizer every time I water. Some people are using Worm Tea from ourvitalearth.com. If you ask a dozen different people what fertilizer to use, you will get a dozen different answers. Sorry.

As for the watering technique, there is a good way and a bad way. When I water I fill the container very quickly so that the water makes it up to the top and has to drain down. By doing this it helps flush out the previous solution, salt build up, and anything else that may be in there. It also helps move oxygen back down to the roots. If you just dribble in the water, or only fill to the top of the reservoir, then you can create an excess in salt build up. There will also be a lesser amount of fresh oxygen getting to the roots. This is very important to have fresh oxygen at the roots as this helps prevent anaerobic bacteria (rot) from growing. During the winter I will water about twice a week. In the summer I find that I have to water 3-4 times a week. Keep in mind that this is in my climate (desert - very hot and dry) and you will have to adjust to your conditions.

Water Quality - When growing anything in hydroponics, you have to keep in mind that there is no organic medium to work as a buffer. Because of this you do have to be careful with the Ph of the water. The ideal Ph for most plants is between 5.5 and 6.5. One example that would not fall into this range would be that there are some paphs live naturally on limestone which is a natural buffer to a higher Ph. This lower Ph could be detrimental to them. Rain, distilled, and R.O. water is around 6.5 - 7(neutral) range. Fertilizers will change the Ph. depending on their makeup. This is another good reason for proper watering, because the Ph can change in the reservoir as the plant utilizes different parts of the solution.

Step 6 - Airflow, Airflow, and Airflow. That is how important it is. It is important for orchids no matter how they are planted, but even more so when planted S/H. This helps the oxygen exchange over the plants and LECA which help prevent root rot. I leave the fan on 24/7. At night, plants use the energy they store during the day to go through several processes. One of these process is to give off carbon dioxide. The breeze will help pull that away so that the plant can continue to do this. If the CO2 builds up too much around the plant, then the processes will slow.


These are the basics to growing your orchids using the S/H culture. Please remember this is just a reference guide, not the set in stone rules. This is how I use this method and how I have found success with S/H. I have lost several plants in the experimenting process and would expect anyone who tries to lost a couple as well since it is part of the learning curve. If you have been scared to try, you could always experiment on a Noid from a big box store. These plants are ideal for experimenting since they are usually cheap and out of flower getting ready to go into a growth stage (ideal time for change over to S/H). Good luck and feel free to ask questions if I need to clarify anything or if I didn't cover anything.

[tom499]

A highly imformative Post Jay .

I just have one little question though I have two Phrags in H/S and was wondering how to keep them happy long term with fertilisation. Will normal orchid fertilisers keep them healthy?

My reasoning is there is no organic media breaking down releasing minerals, though I guess bark is fairly low in minerals..

That may be a general fertilisation question, please tell me to take it elsewhere if so

But back to your post, Its really helpful! I think I will try a few in deli pots, a very good idea!

[Aleksa]

Excellent post!

Your results inspired me to try again with SH, and this time it was succesful! One miniphal is growing great in Sh!

Thank you jay!

[jay]

I use fertilizer with all of my orchids. I keep it pretty weak, around 125 ppm for the Nitrogen. I go with the weakly weekly, although I use the fertilizer all the time.

As for the deli pots, just use a dremmel or drill to make the holes where you want them.

[patticake]

Jay, This post is great!! I really think this should be a sticky! Fred? Do you agree?
I still am a little nervous to try this, but I'm seeing the the little things that are needed from this post. More dry-higher from the water.... less dry -closer to the water etc.-

[articuno75]

Jay~ This is a perfect post! I vote for a definite sticky!!! There are so many members who would like to do S/H, yet are terrified to do it (like I was ) cause of the lack of knowledge or know-how. Hopefully this will encourage many more to give this method a "grow".

[sandra]

Jay, this is outstanding. I now understand what I did wrong when I tried s/h. Thank you for this great tuitorial.

[arleneg]

Like you said, many members are becoming more interested in this growing method. I was wondering when you, the "expert", were going to post a tutorial on s/h. Well done, Jay.

[jay]

Thanks for all the wonderful comments. I am not an expert, just someone willing to experiment a little, even if it means making a few "deadly" mistakes. (Poor Miltassia Shelob 'Webmaster' and Paph. Raisen Pie)

Honestly it is about making mistakes and learning from them. I started out without any airflow and lost a couple. I was only topping off the water and lost some more to salt build up. I had some potted to deep and lost another. I can only give the advise that I have because they are all errors that I have made. I just hope that it helps save a couple more plants.

Thanks again and good luck.

[solay]

Thanks Jay. I don't know if I'm ready for the S/H but this is great info. You did a great job explaining things. Hooray for Jay!!!

[bast]

It is nice Jay, but would like to know yo pH value for the nutritive solution?? I think it is important to know, and you use different value for paph than other orchids!?

[NancyG]

Great post Jay. I've got about 5 orchids in S/H and about 5 more in a s/h variation. I lost some phals because their roots didn't seem able to adjust so now when I place the phal in the s/h material I wrap the most central roots in sphag and then surround with the Leca. My phals seem to like this. Patience is definitely required. Some of the orchids did take awhile before taking off.

Thanks again,
NancyG

[jay]

Bast - I keep the Ph of the nutrient solution somewhere between 5.5 - 6.0. This tends to be the best range for hydroponics, and the orchids like this range as well.

There are some paphs that I would raise this number to around 7.0, and maybe even a touch higher. These would be ones that grow naturally on limestone cliffs like Paph. sanderianum, nivium, bellatulum and other similar species.

Nancy - I use the hydroton in the bottom of some pots instead of styrofoam peanuts to assist with drainage. I have a couple of seedlings in sphagnum moss and hydroton like this.

[bast]

Thank's Jay, And thank's again for the pH value for the paph.

[happy go lucky]

Jay, could you describe "reservoir?" Could you also post a photo of a reservoir? Are the pots sitting in a tray of water?

I do not understand your description on watering. Do you take the orchids to a sink or bathtub to water the pots from the top?

What does the abbreviation MSU fertilizer represent?

[jay]

Happy,

The picture shows an example of the reservoir. The pot only has those two holes. The water level will go up to those holes. The bottom section where the water is held is the reservoir.

There are some that put the holes near the bottom and keep them on a tray with several pots. There are also some that say that you could pass viruses between plants very easily that way. I keep mine separate and not in a tray.

When I water the plant, I use two fingers to plug the to drainage holes. I then fill the entire pot to the top with the fertilizer water. I then remove the plug and let it drain down to the hole level. Then it goes back to the shelf. I do this with a tray and a bucket and a little plumbing.

MSU stand for Michigan State University. They did extensive research about the nutrients a plant needs and came up with a formula to use year round. There are several companies that make this style and sell it as MSU fertilizer. Most of the companies are only online though.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.

[hulaorchid]

Thanks Jay, finally got my MSU fertz and more LECA, I think I'm ready to go!!
Do you get your MSU fert local of order it from them?? and the LECA?? I haven't been able to find it local(in corona area).

I have put a Den biggibum(not sure of spelling) that got hurt in travel in the s/h you gave me. It is my little experiment!! LOL

[janet_a]

i've only seen MSU for sale at places like orchid shows where there are vendors; never seen it off the shelf in a store.

i cover the holes and fill the pots too; depending on the plant, i stand there with my fingers in the holes, whistling tunelessly and looking like an idiot for up to a minute or so.

[jay]

I get my MSU from Ray Barklow, the creator of S/H. His site is http:/www.firstrays.com

As for the LECA, I go to a local hydroponic store to buy it.

I can always get bags from my store and give it to you at the society meetings. Just let me know with a little advance I can pick them up for you. They have 10 liter and 50 liter bags. The 10 liters are a little pricey for the amount, about $15-20. The 50 liter bag is about $50. If you can't find it let me know.

[sina149]

Hello Jay,
I have a question, would you please let me know the mechanism that hydroponics use to feed the plant with water? I would like to know how should you create holes in a pot without any kind of holes for the best results and also how can you save your plant from over watering in this method?
Orchids roots will die if putted in the water, am I right? but this method saves some water in the pot! I am quite confused.
Just keep this in mind that I am a NEWBIE!

[jay]

Hello Sina149.

LECA, or the little clay balls, have an incredible wicking ability that moves the water up to the roots. It is much like an oil lamp. The wick brings the oil up to the flame.

As for the holes, I just drill them out with a dremmel. I have seen people use a soldering iron as well to just melt a few holes.

With S/H it is hard to over water. Once the plant adjusts to S/H or has been in S/H for a while the roots will actually appear to be different. The old roots will not change, but the new roots will "adapt" to the new environment so they can actually be in the water. Most of my orchids have roots that have ventured down into the water. They are wet 24/7. The reason they don't rot is because there is plenty of airflow which does not allow the anaerobic bacteria to live.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.

[sina149]

Thanks Jay,
I do have a lot of questions here.
One is how much water should you apply during each watering? Just like other mediums you should water throughly in a sink or a cup of water or so is good enough and how soon should you do that?

About the holes, how long distance should you keep between your holes and the bottom of the pot? in other words, howmuch water should be kept in the bottom of pot?

One other good question is what's the difference between Semi Hydroponic and Hydroponic for planting a Phal?

Awaiting your comments...

[jay]

Watering - When I water I plug the two holes with my finger tips and fill the water to the top of the pot. I then release my fingers so that it will drain down to the two holes. This allow the pot to flush out. Every once in a while I will pour plain water through to help with flushing.

The hole location depends on several factors. For most cases it is about an inch up from the bottom of the pot. I move it higher with Catasetinae orchids because they drink so much water during the growing season. They need the extra reservoir.

Semi-Hydroponic is a term that Ray Barklow coined. He is the creator of this method, which is a form of passive hydroponics. Regular hydroponics requires a pump to recirculate the water and nutrients or an air pump and air stone as used in DWC (Deep Water Culture).

As for the Phal. Make sure it is growing brand new roots to have the highest level of success for the transfer to S/H. Phals will either love it or hate it. If there is not root growth it may not take. They are a little pickier in my experience to the timing of the transfer. I talk more about that in the first post of this thread.

[delphiguy]

thanks a lot, this is very informative.

[arleneg]

Jay,

May I suggest doing an instructional video, from choosing a pot, drilling holes, to how to water, etc. I think it will cut down on you having to repeat what you've typed early on. Then Fred can make it a sticky note thread...that is, if it's a separate one from this? If separate, I suggest placing a link from here to there.

[vcuchick]

Arlene-

I do have a photo album of my repotting adventure on my profile if that helps anyone...

[kusdra]

thank a lot for tutorial jay, this is great..
i'll try this method, hopefully be suscesful
my orchid ready to die for 1st experience lol

[Sugar Magnolia]

I ordered my first bag of Hydroton last night. I'm pretty sure by the time it gets here I'll be over my fears. Seems like lots of folks are having great success with s/h. Thanks for the info!

[plucker]

Dont know if you guys get them over there, but we have those clear plastic disposable drinking cups over this way from supermarkets that are ideal for S/H. Just use a soldering iron to melt a hole either side about an inch from the bottom and it will be cheaper than most pots that you can buy.

[Ray]

Plucker, I want to share some experience with you:

Put the holes right next to each other on one side of the pot, not one on each side, as you recommended.

A single hole can be blocked by a piece of medium. By putting two right next to each other, the likelihood of that happening is minimized, as one piece of LECA prevents the other hole from being blocked.

Put the label on the opposite side from the holes.

That way, when you tilt the pot to see/get to the label, the liquid pours out away from you, avoiding you looking like you peed yourself. (I learned this first-hand)

[plucker]

Hi Ray, good tips there.
I have overcome the problem by placing a wide label inside the pot with the name facing out. You can read it without doing anything. This label is placed so the medium cannot get near the drain holes , which should always remain clear unless the roots go that way.
I will try and put a picture up so everyone can see.

[Leathal]

I divided one catt alliance..one in a bark mix and the other S/H. So far so good, both are growing and have new roots and leaves starting to emerge. Now I cna't decide what to put the next plant in when I repot. I have 3-4 more

[poozcard]

wow
could it work in hot area like bangkok, thailand?

[yokurt]

Originally Posted by poozcard

wow
could it work in hot area like bangkok, thailand?

I had a phal die from wet feet, and i live in Asia just like you do.. I wouldn't try the S/H method anytime soon as im VERY afraid of losing my chids.. =/

[Ray]

Wetness will not kill a phals roots. Suffocation and/or poisoning might.

What causes root rot?

[yokurt]

Originally Posted by Ray

Wetness will not kill a phals roots. Suffocation and/or poisoning might.

What causes root rot?

I loved my phal to death. overwatered.. =(

well, that was 4 years ago..

[Anisa]

Would it work for seedlings? Or does it have to be mature and established plant to work? Thanks

[Ray]

Absolutely. In fact, rapidly-growing seedlings tend to take to it more readily than mature plants might. The key is to make sure the plants are growing new roots so they can tailor themselves to the new environment.

[Anisa]

Ray, I am glad to hear that. I have a few seedling i am willing to try with. They are currently rapidly growing.
I have another question. Would it be beneficial to transfer into S/H deciduous orchids that needs a rest time during winter. How would that work? as simple as just not water them??
S/H sounds just too good to be true but reading all the feedback i am becoming a believer.

[Anisa]

Oh.. also i noticed that some of you guys have orchids placed into whitish/clearish containers and you make two holes on a side yourself. Can you tell what containers are those and where i can get them. Thanks!

[mayres]

I have found many sources of containers that are "free".
Clear plastic cups that I purchase frozen yogurt in at Costco work perfect for small orchids!
Clear plastic containers that most deli's use for salads work super for larger plants.
I've also used quart yogurt containers (great if you don't mind the "decoration" value of the outsides) and drinking cups.
Another concept I've seen used successfully - keep your orchids potted up in your regular orchid pots - with S/H media - but place the pots in a tray of water. This in effect provides the inch or so of water at the bottom typical of pots created for like purpose.
Note: as hinted in the first post, this is NOT a "magical" method that is going to suddenly turn all your orchids into fabulous specimens with everything else being equal. Like all methods it will take complementary good culture techniques.......

[Ray]

Originally Posted by Anisa

Oh.. also i noticed that some of you guys have orchids placed into whitish/clearish containers and you make two holes on a side yourself. Can you tell what containers are those and where i can get them. Thanks!

The Home of Semi-Hydroponics

[Onleme]

This method sounds like the Bees Knees and we are in like Flynn to have a go.
Bought the LECA today and are searching for containers. Thanks for all the info in this Thread. Well worth the read from top to bottom as it answers a lot of the fears one has. Not that we are completely fearless. We have some Phal M/C babies coming so will try these straight off

Steve

[steam fire and ice]

I so want to thank Ray for this method. I decided to try it about 3 months ago with one of my Catts that was putting on new growth. I have the LECA, and have been using it a medium, but I decided I wanted to put the whole S/H to a test. Let me tell you I just about died today when I was watering my orchids and decided to look at the roots through the cup. THEY ARE HUGE, I totally am sold. I have a Dend, that I totally adore, and I am going to jump it into a S/H this week since it is putting on new roots with the newest cane on it. My hats off to you Ray!!! Thanks so much. I wish I had known about this method 3 years ago and maybe I wouldnt have killed off my first two orchids. I especally love this method since I will be able to keep my orchids in this medium when they go through customs when I bring them back to the US, because LECA is approved by the USDA. YEAH!!!! Thanks a million Ray.

[Ray]

Steve,

Almost any plastic container will do. For more-or-less standard-sized pots, drill two 6mm holes in the sidewall about 25-30 mm up from the bottom, placing them as close together as possible. A piece of LECA can plug one hole, but will prevent the other one from being blocked. If the holes are too far apart, both can be.

[Daethen]

I have small children and I just last night decided to take the S/H plunge. I used the plastic containers that easy mac comes in! Took a screw driver, heated it over the flame on the stove and melted the holes that way! Wish me luck.

[Onleme]

Just wanting to know
When potitng up a new seedling (or any orchid I guess) into a S/H pot, how far should the roots be from the reservoir of water so as to benifit from the wicking of the water by the LECA. I presume that if the pot is too deep then the roots will dry out.

[steam fire and ice]

Ray, I was wondering what happenes when your roots finally reach the reservoir, what do you do then? do you repot into a taller container or will the roots be ok if they are sitting down in the water thats in the reservoir? I have one Laelia that has been my S/H experiment and the roots are now down to that level. I still cant believe how huge the roots are on this plant. I want to continue with this method though.

[Onleme]

Originally Posted by jay

With S/H it is hard to over water. Once the plant adjusts to S/H or has been in S/H for a while the roots will actually appear to be different. The old roots will not change, but the new roots will "adapt" to the new environment so they can actually be in the water. Most of my orchids have roots that have ventured down into the water. They are wet 24/7. The reason they don't rot is because there is plenty of airflow which does not allow the anaerobic bacteria to live.

From further up in this thread re roots in water

Steve

[Ray]

Originally Posted by steam fire and ice

Ray, I was wondering what happenes when your roots finally reach the reservoir, what do you do then? do you repot into a taller container or will the roots be ok if they are sitting down in the water thats in the reservoir? I have one Laelia that has been my S/H experiment and the roots are now down to that level. I still cant believe how huge the roots are on this plant. I want to continue with this method though.

Root cells "tailor" themselves to the environment into which they are growing, whether that is old decomposing bark mix into fresh bark, or into LECA in S/H culture, or into the reservoir. If the GROW into it, they'll be fine; if you submerge existing rots, that an entirely different story.