S/H method explained

[jay]

There has been an exponential growth of new members on the site and a lot of questions about S/H (Semi - Hydroponic) method of growing orchids. I am by no means an expert, but will do my best to teach the basics of this method. This method was first used/created by Ray Barklow. Nearly all types of orchids can be very successful in this culture, the one exception that I know of is Tolumnia’s, which will die in S/H. I personally have my whole collection in S/H which includes, but is not limited to: Phalaenopsis, Paphiopedilum, Oncidium, Phragmepidium, Cattleya, Dendrobium, Neofinetia, and Catasetinae.

**Disclaimer - I have found this method to be very successful for myself in my growing conditions. Different people will have different successes with the same method depending on local conditions. This is not an end all and save all method.**

Step 1 - Repotting at the right time. Ideally you want to repot into S/H when there is active root growth. This is done because the new roots will be able to acclimate to the new culture better than old roots will. Old roots may die off when transplanted into S/H.

Step 2 - Preparing the LECA (Light Expanded Clay Aggregate) or little clay balls. The LECA is very dusty and may have some mineral salts from the firing process. Make sure that you rinse it thoroughly several times to remove all the dust. I will put it in a large mixing bowl and swirl, agitate, dump water, and refill it several times. I will continue to do this until the water is clear. Then I will soak the LECA overnight in a worm tea / superthrive solution. (You don’t need either, but I like to use them)

Step 3 - Choosing the right size container. This is very important. You want a container so that the roots of the plant will be about one inch above the drainage holes when potted up. In picture 1 below you can see some examples of pots. I have made my own from deli containers, food storage container, and I have bought some from FirstRays.com. If you use a container that is too shallow, then the old roots may get too wet and die. If you use a container that is too tall, then the LECA will not be able to wick the water up enough and the roots will dry out and die. It is Ok if the roots go into the reservoir themselves since they will be adjusting to the new environment as you can see this Phrag. Jason Fischer has done in picture 2.

Step 4 - Potting it up. Fill the bottom of the container with your pre-treated LECA. This line should be about 1 inch above the drainage holes. Make sure that you have removed all of the organic potting material from the roots of your plant. I have left some very small pieces of bark on the roots to prevent damage from removal, and they were fine in the S/H. Just be careful that there is not a lot of this material. Carefully place your plant in the container and begin to fill in the gaps with the LECA that you pre-treated. Tap the container as you do this to help fill in the gaps. Try not to have the LECA cover up leaves or new growths, or too high up the base of the plant. Picture 3 shows some various plants in different size containers. Picture 4 shows how crazy the roots are growing on this Noid Dendrobium. Picture 5 shows how I have lowered the plant in the pot so it's new roots are about 1 inch above the reservoir. As this plant grows I will carefully lift it up and fill in the bottom with more LECA.

Step 5 - Watering and Fertilizer. I personally use a MSU type fertilizer every time I water. Some people are using Worm Tea from ourvitalearth.com. If you ask a dozen different people what fertilizer to use, you will get a dozen different answers. Sorry.

As for the watering technique, there is a good way and a bad way. When I water I fill the container very quickly so that the water makes it up to the top and has to drain down. By doing this it helps flush out the previous solution, salt build up, and anything else that may be in there. It also helps move oxygen back down to the roots. If you just dribble in the water, or only fill to the top of the reservoir, then you can create an excess in salt build up. There will also be a lesser amount of fresh oxygen getting to the roots. This is very important to have fresh oxygen at the roots as this helps prevent anaerobic bacteria (rot) from growing. During the winter I will water about twice a week. In the summer I find that I have to water 3-4 times a week. Keep in mind that this is in my climate (desert - very hot and dry) and you will have to adjust to your conditions.

Water Quality - When growing anything in hydroponics, you have to keep in mind that there is no organic medium to work as a buffer. Because of this you do have to be careful with the Ph of the water. The ideal Ph for most plants is between 5.5 and 6.5. One example that would not fall into this range would be that there are some paphs live naturally on limestone which is a natural buffer to a higher Ph. This lower Ph could be detrimental to them. Rain, distilled, and R.O. water is around 6.5 - 7(neutral) range. Fertilizers will change the Ph. depending on their makeup. This is another good reason for proper watering, because the Ph can change in the reservoir as the plant utilizes different parts of the solution.

Step 6 - Airflow, Airflow, and Airflow. That is how important it is. It is important for orchids no matter how they are planted, but even more so when planted S/H. This helps the oxygen exchange over the plants and LECA which help prevent root rot. I leave the fan on 24/7. At night, plants use the energy they store during the day to go through several processes. One of these process is to give off carbon dioxide. The breeze will help pull that away so that the plant can continue to do this. If the CO2 builds up too much around the plant, then the processes will slow.


These are the basics to growing your orchids using the S/H culture. Please remember this is just a reference guide, not the set in stone rules. This is how I use this method and how I have found success with S/H. I have lost several plants in the experimenting process and would expect anyone who tries to lost a couple as well since it is part of the learning curve. If you have been scared to try, you could always experiment on a Noid from a big box store. These plants are ideal for experimenting since they are usually cheap and out of flower getting ready to go into a growth stage (ideal time for change over to S/H). Good luck and feel free to ask questions if I need to clarify anything or if I didn't cover anything.

[tom499]

A highly imformative Post Jay .

I just have one little question though I have two Phrags in H/S and was wondering how to keep them happy long term with fertilisation. Will normal orchid fertilisers keep them healthy?

My reasoning is there is no organic media breaking down releasing minerals, though I guess bark is fairly low in minerals..

That may be a general fertilisation question, please tell me to take it elsewhere if so

But back to your post, Its really helpful! I think I will try a few in deli pots, a very good idea!

[Aleksa]

Excellent post!

Your results inspired me to try again with SH, and this time it was succesful! One miniphal is growing great in Sh!

Thank you jay!

[jay]

I use fertilizer with all of my orchids. I keep it pretty weak, around 125 ppm for the Nitrogen. I go with the weakly weekly, although I use the fertilizer all the time.

As for the deli pots, just use a dremmel or drill to make the holes where you want them.

[patticake]

Jay, This post is great!! I really think this should be a sticky! Fred? Do you agree?
I still am a little nervous to try this, but I'm seeing the the little things that are needed from this post. More dry-higher from the water.... less dry -closer to the water etc.-

[articuno75]

Jay~ This is a perfect post! I vote for a definite sticky!!! There are so many members who would like to do S/H, yet are terrified to do it (like I was ) cause of the lack of knowledge or know-how. Hopefully this will encourage many more to give this method a "grow".

[sandra]

Jay, this is outstanding. I now understand what I did wrong when I tried s/h. Thank you for this great tuitorial.

[arleneg]

Like you said, many members are becoming more interested in this growing method. I was wondering when you, the "expert", were going to post a tutorial on s/h. Well done, Jay.

[jay]

Thanks for all the wonderful comments. I am not an expert, just someone willing to experiment a little, even if it means making a few "deadly" mistakes. (Poor Miltassia Shelob 'Webmaster' and Paph. Raisen Pie)

Honestly it is about making mistakes and learning from them. I started out without any airflow and lost a couple. I was only topping off the water and lost some more to salt build up. I had some potted to deep and lost another. I can only give the advise that I have because they are all errors that I have made. I just hope that it helps save a couple more plants.

Thanks again and good luck.

[solay]

Thanks Jay. I don't know if I'm ready for the S/H but this is great info. You did a great job explaining things. Hooray for Jay!!!

[bast]

It is nice Jay, but would like to know yo pH value for the nutritive solution?? I think it is important to know, and you use different value for paph than other orchids!?

[NancyG]

Great post Jay. I've got about 5 orchids in S/H and about 5 more in a s/h variation. I lost some phals because their roots didn't seem able to adjust so now when I place the phal in the s/h material I wrap the most central roots in sphag and then surround with the Leca. My phals seem to like this. Patience is definitely required. Some of the orchids did take awhile before taking off.

Thanks again,
NancyG

[jay]

Bast - I keep the Ph of the nutrient solution somewhere between 5.5 - 6.0. This tends to be the best range for hydroponics, and the orchids like this range as well.

There are some paphs that I would raise this number to around 7.0, and maybe even a touch higher. These would be ones that grow naturally on limestone cliffs like Paph. sanderianum, nivium, bellatulum and other similar species.

Nancy - I use the hydroton in the bottom of some pots instead of styrofoam peanuts to assist with drainage. I have a couple of seedlings in sphagnum moss and hydroton like this.

[bast]

Thank's Jay, And thank's again for the pH value for the paph.