My first S/H orchid 7 months later

[jay]

This Phal is my first orchid that I put into S/H.

In the first picture you can see that when I brought it home from Lowe's it was having some troubles with its roots.

The second photo is about 3 months after putting it into S/H and you can see the root growth already.

And now, it is in bloom with only one bud left to open.

[jay]

This next group of photos may be even more dramatic. This Oncidium Noid was near death last summer. You can see from the first few photos that the pseudobulbs were shriveled and dying. This one had also received a bad sunburn.

Notice the bent over shrunken pseudobulb in the first two photos.
It is the same pseudobulb in the center of photo #4. Notice that it now surrounded by new growths and has plumped up.

The last photos are there to show the root growth since last August. The roots have grown right into the reservoir where there is fertilized water all the time.

Just thought I would share some of my S/H results since there seem to be a lot questions about this method.

[kmarch]

Jay,

These results fascinate me. I'm sure other members will be interested too. Can you elaborate a bit more on your particular technique?

AlsoI have noticed recently a few members who had unfavorable results using s/h on paphs while the results with onc andphals seem to be good. Have you done paphs? and if so what were your results?

[silkymoon]

I must have missed something can you explain the s/h
maria


Edited by Fred] maria.... S/H means ( semi-hydroponic )

[sandra]

Amazing difference between then and now. Do you ever change, flush out the water in the reservoir?

[jay]

Kmarch, I keep all of my orchids in S/H. This includes: Phals, Paphs, Phrag, Neofenitia, Oncidium Alliance, Dendrobium, and Cattleya.

As far as technique. I try to transfer my plants into S/H when there is active root growth. This helps the transition into S/H. The Paphs don't seem to care when they are switched. I have repotted them while in spike, in flower, or with new growths. All seem to be just fine. My Phrag. Jason Fischer loves the moisture and has roots diving into the water at the bottom of the pot.

One thing I have learned about S/H is pot depth and airflow.
If you pot a plant too in a pot that is too tall, then the water will not wick up to the roots very well and they will dry out and die. At the same time if the pot is too shallow then they will never get enough oxygen and will rot off. The bottom of the roots should be about 1 inch above the drainage holes. If they grow into the water they will be fine because they have adapted to that environment.

Airflow is a big factor as well. If they do not get a good airflow then they can easily rot at the base of the plant where it enters the LECA. I did lose a couple of Onc. and a Dendrobium because of this.

Hope this helps a little. Let me know if there are any other questions.

[jay]

silkymoon - S/H = semi - hydroponic

Sandra - When I water I pour very quickly so that the water will reach the top of the pot and then drain out to the drainage holes. This helps flush out any buildup and replenish the nutrients throughout. Living in the desert I will do this twice a week in the winter and 3-4 times a week in the summer.

[articuno75]

Jay~Do your pots for S/H have holes bored in them near the bottom or do you just fill with water and hydroton? What I mean is where are the hole bored?

[jay]

Jenny - Most of the pots I have already have the holes drilled in them about 1 inch up from the bottom. I bought them that way from FirstRays.com. I do have a couple, including that Oncidium, that are in basic food storage containers that I used a dremel to make the holes.

[articuno75]

Too tall a pot, too short a pot. I guess I'm just too chicken to do the S/H thing for now. I bought some, but I think I'll use it on a NoID as a guinea pig first. I just want to get the concept down before I put my precious ones in it.

I repotted my Paph in CHC instead. I guess I gotta get braver

[jay]

Jenny - I think starting with a rescue plant from a box store would be a great idea. Most of these are out of flower and entering a vegetative growth which is the best time to repot them into S/H anyway.

As if I need to give any of us another reason to rescue an orchid.

[janet_a]

good looking phal; i killed a couple in s/h. and also had a near-death onc that perked right up in s/h.

now i'm waiting for my jason fischer phrag to get its act together and perk up in s/h.

[kazjak]

At this point, I have 6 Phals, a Brassia, 2 Noid Oncidiums, a Macodes Petola and 2 Catts in S/H. I had my Twinkle moved over as well but the leaves started yellowing so I panicked and moved it back. And of course I had my Paph Raisin Pie which I posted in a previous thread which didn't like the S/H at all. The Roots rotted off. I use any container that I can get my hands on. Old tupperware, 2 liter bottles..... My favorite container is a small bucket that my wife receives butter cream frosting in for decorating cakes. This currently has my Iwanagara Apple Blossom. I use a cheap soldering iron for making the holes. I almost killed my jewel a couple of weeks ago when the reservoir dried up so you have to really pay attention to the water levels. It definitely seems to evaporate faster through the S/H.

[tom499]

Thankyou Jay his have been very helpful, and probably explains the problems I had when I put a paph in s/h.

Over here, s/h means hydroton, in a two pot set up. You have a normal pot, then a holeless put on the outside, which acts as the reservoir.

Sounds abit confusing, but it means theres a double pot thing going on, and with the wetness, I can see that rot is the only outcome.

I was thinking of putting my new phrag into hydroton, in a normal pot with a saucer of water. It needs repotting and there is new growth.

My big question is though, why do roots rot when they're left in water, but when in h/s set up the roots can grow down to the reservoir and not rot. Is it just a lack of fresh air, or do the roots adapt as they grow?

[PhalPal]

I have a few Oncidiums that I just can't keep watered and the pbulbs are shriveled. I've even tried my coir mix, and being under T5's I am virtually watering every day. I'm watering spraghum every day also. (small pots) I am going to try my Oncs in s/h and see if it makes it easier for me.

[brookn]

I am definitely thinking of trying my Oncs in s/h also. I have a hard time keeping up with the watering demands myself. It seems like a good idea to try it for them right now.

[jay]

Tom, when the roots get to grow into the water then they adapt to the water. When the roots are in wet bark then the anaerobic bacteria (rot) begins to grow and kills the plant. In S/H the air can flow freely around the roots which prevents the rot to begin.

[tom499]

Thankyou Jay, thats cleared my mind I had a paph in a double pot thing in h/s and it rotted. Now I see, the h/s is fine, its just the technique i was told to use.

Could you show us more pics of your plants in h/s? I think this could be a great way to sort out my collection when I go away.

[janice]

Jay, thanks so much.............I have almost all my Phals. in S/H...............several Catts. but as noted in a previous thread.....my paphs. did not seem to like it....but I think it maybe was my technique..........and you helped me earlier regarding the air flow...I like S/H due to limited time/convenience of watering in the winter.....jan