your experiences with s/h

[exasperatus2002]

I've been kicking around the idea of switching to s/h since I bought a small Psychopsis seedling that was in s/h in july 2007. It has had good root growth since I got it and the leaves are larger. But theres no new pb growth though. I called my local orchid greenhouse where the vendor I got it from had a stand during one of their orchidfests to see if they carry the clay media in stock so I dont have to pay shipping for the stuff. The greenhouse says they dont like to use s/h because after a year, they get better results from regular potting media then they do from s/h. Now what I didnt think of asking is, was their decision based on large scale application or a few at hobbiest level. So I call upon you all. What is your long term experience with s/h culture. is it worth the investment to make the switch? My biggest draw to s/h is the maintenence. Its alot easier to tell when its in need of watering with s/h then it is with bark. I just started to use the skewer method for my larger pots.

[Vivienne]

There are several folks here who really like the S/H. I only have 2 Phrags in S/H and they are doing well putting on new growth. These two are much happier than when they were in bark mix.

[janet_a]

nearly killed a phal in s/h. (of course, it tried to die in sphag, and then in bark. it's in the process of being mounted at the moment.) *did* kill a phal in s/h.

however, got a $10 sharry baby that was trying to shrivel up and die on me, so i finally put it in s/h--w/in 2 weeks it was looking better, and it bloomed last fall and is now putting out another p.bulb. seems happy.

had a phrag that was doing ok in bark, but i figured "what the heck" and put it in s/h a few yrs ago. it grows and blooms and seems happy, but i have no idea if it would have done the same in bark or not.

got a jason fischer (phrag) last summer that i put in s/h; it's still alive, but growing glacially slowly. however, since a JF is half species (i think), it may just be the whole 'species' thing. my other phrag is a complex hybrid. (it's also very chilly on my windowsill at the moment--it may be happier when it warms up.)

if you want to try s/h, put a few plants in a wait a year and see what happens. there's no rush.

[tom499]

My tale was of misery also. I put my fav Paph in s/h and it did nothing. I got round to having a look in the pot and many roots had rotted.

A repot back into bark and luckily is recovered fast and is now in spike

I believe I may have kept it too wet, which is a problem I have due to my growing conditions. I have used them as potting media and not used the water reservoir, but I find they need watering too often.

[janice]

I went to S/H a year ago............have several Phals., Catts, Dens, couple of Lc's. in it and I really have had good luck. Recently I had some root rot on old growth on the Den. but with good advice from fourm members I increased air flow and this seems to be helping. My Paphs. did not like it and I returned them to a mixture. Try a few!!!

[jay]

I have all of my orchids in S/H. I love it. I have trouble keeping bark moist enough because my air is very dry here in the desert. By switching to S/H it helps with the relative humidity. I believe that it also helps keep my orchids cool with evaporative cooling, which is important since we keep our home at 80F in the summer.

Even though it helps with preventing overwatering, there are some important culture notes to remember.

Air flow is the key. The whole reason that S/H works is that there is a fresh oxygen exchange over the roots. This prevents anaerobic bacteria (fungus, rot) to begin growing and allows for maximum uptake of water and nutrients.

When watering pour the water in fast enough to fill the container and then drain the excess. This will help prevent a mineral salt build up. It will also help flush any impurities out. If you only top off then you will have to do a clean flush regularly or you will get a heavy build up from the fertilizer.

Container size is very important. You do not want a container that is too tall. The bottom of the roots should sit about an inch above the drainage holes. This will allow for a proper amount of liquid to reach the top through wicking. If this distance is to far then the roots will dry up and suffer.

Fertilizer is important. There are a lot of theories for this one so I will just mention what I use. Keep in mind that others prefer to switch between "growth" and "bloom" fertilizers. I have recently begun feeding a MSU type fertilizer with every watering. I do this so I don't have to remember which orchid gets what and to prevent having that many different fertilizers to deal with. I like the studies that MSU did showing that a well balanced fertilizer is better than using "boosters".

Preparation of the LECA is important as well. You don't want to just take the LECA out of the bag and pot a plant in it. You need to make sure that you rinse it very well and soak it for 24 hours before using. Some people will soak it in a Epsom Salt and Calcium Nitrate. Some will even add some rooting hormones to the presoak. I personally just clean very well and soak in pure water and worm tea over night.


Hope this helps anyone with any questions.

Jay

[NancyG]

I have about 7 orchids in s/h. One of my phals died in it. I was gone on vacation for two weeks and that was part of the reason and I was keeping the resevoir full which was too much moisture. I don't keep the reservoir full anymore I mist almost everyday with worm tea. They all seem to doing well, new roots and new growth. Looking forward to spring when they all should bloom. I am in S. Florida so the summer are really humid probably the opposite of Jay's environment.

NancyG