How do you do semi hydro growing?

[zonepusher]

Does anyone have any pictures of how to do a semi hydro setup? This sounds like something I want to try but I am having a hard time trying to picture the concept. Many of my new plants have been dehydrated to the point of wrinkling but have new growth.

Could someone also provide a list of what I need?

How often do you change the water if at all?
Andi

[Sharyn]

I'm ony experimenting with one orchid growing hydroponically so I'm no expert. Here's a link in the potting mediums section that should provide the information you need. Our administrator has also included links for hydro information. Good luck.

what is hydroponic culture?

[charleyismydog]

Hi Zonepusher. I was just on this website yesterday. I've never tried it, but they make it seem pretty simple this way.
http://www.hydro-orchids.com/
Good luck! Let us know what you find out and how your experience goes. I'd be curious.

[gerneveyn]

I am growing phals in s/h, and they're doing fine. Here are three sites with more info and pics:
All about Semi-Hydroponics

Semihydro

[gore42]

I've taken a few pictures of how I do it.... give me a sec and I'll post them

- Matt

[zonepusher]

Thanks for the links. This is EXACTLY what I was looking for. I have a lot of decorative containers that will be perfect for the outer pots and lots of plastic pots that can be modified for the inner pots.


I do have one question though. I have several plants that have 10 and 12 inch long roots. Do I need to find a pot to accommodate these or will they be fine hanging out as they are. Some look like air roots but some do not.

As soon as I figure out how to get the old pictures off this camera I will post the new ones of the orchids.

Anyone know how to delete all the pictures from the memory of a Vivi Cam 5385 digital camera? Send me a pm so as not to go off topic. The user manual is NOT user friendly.
Andi

[zonepusher]

Thanks Gore42,
I am sitting on the edge of my chair waiting for your post and pictures.
Andi

[gore42]

Sorry... I'm having a bit of difficulty posting photos since I haven't made 5 posts yet, I can't post the links. Give me a sec, and I'll take care of that, too...

- Matt

[gore42]

OK, here they are...

[gore42]

Before I get started, let me say that this may not be the "right way" or even the best way to grow in S/H. This is, however, how I do it... and I've had a good success with most of the plants that I grow this way. So, as with everything you read on a forum, take this with a grain of salt and adjust it to suit your needs and growing conditions. That said...


The first thing to do is get a container. I've used all sorts of things, but generally prefer clear containers so that I can see how the roots are doing, which is especially important with test plants... so that you can rescue them if they aren't going to adjust to S/H. In the photo below you can see a plastic cup , which is one of the containers I use most, and a cover for an old CD spindle. I wouldn't waste your money on buying special containers unless you're going to be growing the plant in a display area.



Then you make some holes a couple of inches above the bottom of the pot. In this case, I drilled holes, but with the plastic cups I usually just heat a nail over a flame and poke holes... it's fast that way. The cups, incidentally, are a great size for Phrag seedlings or Phalaenopsis seedlings. Phal seedlings grow at a tremendous rate in S/H.




After a you have a hole or two, add in some of your hydroponic media, light-weight expanded clay aggregate (LECA). Some people are very picky about what brand they use, and will only use Prime-Agra, for example. I can only find Hydroton locally, so that's what I use and it works just fine for me... I don't want to spend the money on shipping for this stuff.... it's just too heavy to be cost effective. Anyway, fill the cup up to the drain holes.




Finally, pot your plant normally in the pot using LECA. Done this way, the roots are not hanging down in the water reservoir, and have a better chance of adjusting to the new conditions. This plant is a Phrag. longifolium species that was not doing well in its other pot, so I moved it. Generally speaking, you should ONLY move a plant to S/H when you notice that it has new root growth. New roots will adjust well to the conditions, but old roots will generally die off. For me, Phrags have always done well, no matter what stage of growth they are in. The roots will generally grow down into the reservoir later.



Here you can see the roots just above the water line.





Watering becomes very easy. Just top up the reservoir whenever it needs it... around here it's usually once or twice a week, depending on the pot size. Then, every few weeks I flush the pots with pure water to help remove any salts that may be building up. I also fertilize more lightly with this system, usually only 1/4 strength.

That about all you need: some sort of container and some LECA (found at many nurseries and all hydroponic stores).

Hope that helps

As Ever,
Matthew Gore

[gore42]

You may notice that the LECA in this pot is pretty high in the pot. This Phrag had a huge root system so I potted it too high... normally, you should leave a couple of inches of lip at the top of the pot because the LECA can easily get washed out while watering

- Matt

[Vivienne]

Thanks for this education in semi-hydroponics. Great pics and info!

[zonepusher]

Thanks for the pics. That looks very simple. Those pebbles look a bit large for some of these plants. In fact they look a bit lost in their 2 inch pots, but thats all that was left when I removed the dead parts. Is there anything smaller I can use?
Andi

[zonepusher]

OK I called the local nursery and they do not carry the LECA pebbles but they did say I can use the Aquatic potting soil that I already have for S/H culture. I have a boat load of those plastic cups from our last reunion. I will have to find something else for the larger plants. Off to raid DH's kitchen for the plastic ware cupboard.
Andi

[gore42]

Andi,

Hydroton does come in different sizes... some of it is about half the size that I have these planted in, but it's not especially easy to find the smaller stuff locally (at least, not here). On the other hand, I've planted some really small plants in the mid-size LECA that I have, and they have developed new roots and grown very quickly... so you may want to experiment a bit. I don't usually take anything out of a community pot until it's large enough to be grown in S/H (if I decide to grow it that way). Anyway, if you can't find small enough hydroton, you could also try Diatomite, or even just perlite. I've never done it, but it might be worth a shot.

Here are a couple more pics of my results with Phals. I usually put my Phal seedlings in S/H pots once they're about 3" wide, a little smaller than the Phal stuartiana in the first photo.



Generally, after about a year in a S/H pot, they are blooming size... like the Phal schilleriana below. That may not be too amazing for those of you living in Hawaii or Florida, but in Colorado, it's much faster than in a plain bark mix (though I've had good results in CHC, too).



As Ever,
Matthew Gore

[janet_a]

got an AV in a starbucks frappucino cup; a sharry baby in a one quart chinese food container; a phrag in a "real" s/h pot (which i suspect started out as a one quart chinese food container.... )

good on y'all that have gotten phals to grow in this; i came *that close* to killing two.

[zonepusher]

Great looking plants Matthew. ALL orchids are great looking.

The expanded clay Aquatic soil looks kinda like kitty litter. Will this work for some of the smaller plants. I would have to place a screen over the holes to keep it from falling out. I will see if I can find a supplier for hydroton this weekend.
Andi

[NancyG]

Excellent photos and explanation. I just switched a bunch over to s/h. Hope they all turn out well.

NancyG

[Dlynne]

This forum was very helpful. I'n new to this site and just starting with s/h. My problem was finding containers - I did order some from First Rays. I never thought of CD/DVD spindle covers! I must have five of them sitting in front of me. I've been using yogurt cups for my "experiments", the ones that are hanging on by a thread - the one leaf wonders. I plan on transplanting my paphs as soon as my containers arrive and then go onto phals. I also am going to look in bait & tackle places. First Rays spoke at our orchid society meeting a couple months ago and I was very impressed. One of our members has transplanted quite a few of his orchids and says they are doing very well. I have a converted carport covered by shade cloth and that is my gh - crude but does the job! LOL

[Hummer344]

Would the rock material from Dyna-Gro work just the same as the LECA? It comes in two sizes, fine and medium, and absorbs 150% of its dry weight in water. Only trouble is, you have to order it from Dyna-Gro as there are very few places that carry it

[Vivienne]

is Dyna-Gro that gel like stuff?

[fred]

Hi Dlynne

Welcome to the forum

I hope that you enjoy your stay here with all of us orchidgeeks.

If you have any questions please ask as we have alot of knowledge here on the forum and also with the members.

happy chatting

[gore42]

Hummer,

Are you talking about Dyna-rok (I think that's what they call it)? If so, it's just Diatomite with a different brand label. I don't know whether it will work or not... the problem with smaller stuff like that is that it restricts the air flow to the root zone, and diatomite absorbs SOOO much water, I imagine that most plants would stay too wet. Phrags might do ok that way... I haven't had good results with ANY of my Paphs in S/H... maybe it's just my growing conditions, though.

- Matt

[Hummer344]

Yes, its Dyna-Roc. I have used it for several years as part of my mix. seems to work well for me. I use the fine rock for my phals along with fine orchid bark &/or fine coconut husk. The mix retains enough moisture but doesn't stay soggy. I might add that I melt holes down the sides of all my pots to give better air circulation to the roots. I just use a soldering gun with a fine tip to melt the plastic. Doesn't look so hot but its cheap & when they are blossoming I put the plastic pot into a decretive pot anyway and no one is the wiser.

[sandra]

I'm transferring all of my catts and phals (that aren't in bloom or spike) to LECA today. I've continuously read only great things about potting up this way. I can't find one reason why not to....do any exist? I'm sick of seeing the catts roots rotted, although I know they're prone to it. Living in Florida, it's hard to get the watering conditions right for these plants and the skewers, although helpful, I'm afraid aren't accurate enough in gaging their watering needs. The humidity keeps everything wet on the surface also. I'm going to the deli today to pick up some containers. The worst day to ask if I can buy something other than lunch though....everybody lunches at the delis on Saturdays so I'll put on my waif face

gerneveyn, thanks for those links; they're great!

And Matthew, thank you for this tuitorial!

[Lucinda Brown]

A small soldering gun works great for melting the holes in plastic containers for semi-hydro,too.

[justloveorchids]

OK .......just ordered some ECA in order to see how i fare with it here in the UK on my Phals

Surely its possible to use the existing typical orchid pots by simply standing them in shallow dishes or troughs of water

I am trying to devise a way of having several phals potted in ECA sit in a shallow trough of water so that its an easy job for my neighbour to keep them watered if i am away

I intend using only filtered rainwater with the addition of worm tea so assume there would not be any salts build up to worry about in the short term

Comments please

[jay]

I personally just go to walmart and buy cheap food containers to use of S/H. I take them home, get the dremmel, and make the holes. I have not tried one large resevoir. The individual pots are easy enough. You can't over water them even if you water every day because of the drainage holes.


Jay

[justloveorchids]

Unfortunately in the UK we dont have the benefit of Walmart or their prices

Equally I am trying to make life easy for my neighbour when I am away

especially since my Orchid collection has grown to 20 now

Do you have any experience with Miltonias using ECA system .......its these that seem to object to drying out the most

[exasperatus2002]

Originally Posted by charleyismydog

Hi Zonepusher. I was just on this website yesterday. I've never tried it, but they make it seem pretty simple this way.
Home
Good luck! Let us know what you find out and how your experience goes. I'd be curious.

I bought a baby Oncidium kramerianum x Versteegianum from a booth from hydro orchids when I was at a local orchid show early this year. Its got lot of roots now that Ive brought it home. Your supposed to let it dry completely before rewatering it. I was wondering if anyone else here uses their system before I invest the money to transplant the rest of my orchids to it. I like it. Its user friendly. I feed every other watering.

[exasperatus2002]

[IMG][/IMG]



here it is in & out of the pot. when I got it, the roots were just peeking through and now they're starting to go all over. I gave it water today. I ran fresh water through to wash away any built up minerals.

[Tony]

Exausperatus

This system looks similar to the one I just started to use. The one I use is made by Luwasa and it has a float gauge built in so you know when it needs water. I replanted an Oncidium in late July and it has a ton of roots and a lot of new growth. Then in early October I planted two Phals and a Paph. in it and they seem to be doing extremely well also. I don't think you will have any problems. They would have shown up by now. Tony M.

[exasperatus2002]

the leaf on the right is hidding the float gauge. When grown like this one is, when do you think i'll need to repot?

[CathyG]

I bought a lot of the pebbles for this earlier this year both the regular and pea sized. I almost finished off my phalenopsis with this method and wound up putting them back into sphagnum moss where they are doing well. Lost quite a few to crown rot this past spring with all the heavy rains here in Oklahoma. I have also got a lot of oncidiums in the S/H and they are going gang busters growing this way. Same for some mini cymbidiums. Also a couple of the slipper types seem to be doing well. I am not sure why the phalenopsis didn't like this method. Oh and quite a few of my dendrobiums developed root rot as well, the other dendrobiums seem to like this method. There is no rhyme or reason here, all plants of the same type are growing side by side. For the oncidiums and cymbidiums this is definitely a good way to grow them.

[Tony]

Exasperatus

I was told you can go a couple of years, since there is no breakdown of potting material. Maybe someone more experienced can answer that question.

The store where I bought mine here in NJ said not to put too much water in the pot. To only let the float go to half way between minimum and Max. and to let it dry out between re-watering. Right now the few orchids I have seem to really like it and that includes two Phals. Only time will tell. Tony M

[Sandi]

I'm a 30 year vet in orchidland. Tried several medias and Miltoniopsis seem to do very well in Hydroton even if they are allowed to dry out slightly during lower light times of the year. We have a member of our society also that grows only in Hydroton and swears by it for his entire collection of Phals. Phrags like it best though as they need the light and the water, whereas Milts resent too much light. Try them if you can purchase in your areas. All the ideas about using plastic food containers and even plastic pots with extra holes (for Catts) are on the right track. Some orchids like a reservoir, others don't. Watch your leaves to see how they stay hydrated.
Regarding the Onc. kramerianum x versteegianum, using Aussie mix is the thing that works for me as it has the Dyna rock in it, which lessens your over watering problem. Haven't tried Hydroton for Pyp types.

[tizzycat]

These are my first attempts at S/H The large phal is one a friend asked me to try and save after she near drowned it. All the roots were rotten. I eventually managed to get it to grow some new roots in bark. It grew two new leaves but lost all but two of the original leaves. The last two of the old leaves were very limp and the plant was beginning to look a little sad again.

Following my reading of an article by Geoff Hands, I had already transferred the small plant, (an orphan which my daughter brought home) which again had no healthy roots, to S/H and it had grown a new leaf and the remaining leaves had firmed up.

Based on the apparent success with the mini phal, I decided, a couple of weeks ago, to try my friends plant in S/H and the results are amazing. The leaves have firmed up, although the second one is still a bit pale looking, and the plant is looking happy again.





If anyone is interested, this is the article by Geoff Hands, it was his remark about initially only using this method to salvage orchids with no roots that tempted me to try it.

I had been trying to talk myself it to giving S/H a go for some time, but was afraid of losing any plants, so this way I had nothing to lose, the plants were destined to turn up their toes anyway.

Geoff Hands