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Old 12-10-2010, 05:28 AM
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Phal. problems in S/h

Hi, about 3-4 weeks ago I planted 2 Phals. in S/H the granules were fine graded 2-4 mm, one plant has made 1 root since then but on the other some mold started to appear so I changed the granules with 8-16 mm and the pots as well.
I use now taller pots and with holes all around the pot for better air circulation.
Do you think this was ok for me to do or it was to stressful for the plants???

Here are some pictures with the old pots and granules:


This is the one that made a root:



And this is an Oncidium that I have in the same way , didn't change the pot and granules because I can see new roots that go down in the nutrient tank.I maybe gone put some holes in the pot, what do you think?
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Old 12-10-2010, 06:41 AM
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Is this true semi-hydroponics? Are you using S/H pots (side hole about an inch up and a water reservoir in the bottom) or regular pots (holes in the bottom) and just using the leca as a potting medium?
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:57 AM
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I think you did the right thing moving the phal into the coarser material. I never put any orchid into anything smaller than 10-16 mm, as it makes the spaces smaller, choking off the air flow to thew roots, which is essential for gas exchange.

I recommend no more than 2 or 3, 6mm holes in the sidewall, about 25-30mm up from the bottom. If you add more, the overall evaporation rate from the medium does up, defeating the S/H concept by reducing the wicking from the bottom to the top.

It is perfectly natural for the roots of a plant to grow down into the reservoir. If they GROW INTO it, those roots will be fine. If you potted the plant too deeply, the submerged roots will suffocate and die.

It is also perfectly natural for old roots to die and decompose when a plant is moved into a new root zone environment. That is why it is important to limit - as much as possible - repotting to coincide with the initiation of new root growth. If you have not, or cannot do so, keep the plant very warm to kick it into growth mode. I would recommend keeping it at least at 20 degrees C, maybe more like a min of 25. If you can get a seedling heat mat to put under it, all the better, as that warms the root zone only, shifting the metabolic processes to focus on that area only for significant growth.
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:30 AM
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Your phal looks a little dehydrated. For additional humidity you could mist the top roots and surface of your medium.
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:20 PM
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I had the same question that Katrina had - I don't see a layer of water in the bottom of your pots? The plants look dry/dehydrating? If you use regular pots you need to place the pots themselves into a reservoir of water that is say an inch deep or so. I've seen this concept work very nicely.
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Old 12-10-2010, 01:01 PM
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Thanks for all the advice, they are kept in my room that means the temperature is over 20 degrees C.

I already changed the to coarser granules, but I made some pots from some plastic bottles as you will see in the pictures below. But didn't have a chance to see the reply's and made more holes in the pots. My question is if I should cover the holes or not?

I only repoted the Phals. because the Cambria seems to like it as seen in the pictures below new green roots grow, what do you think ? Should I change to coarse material and leave the pot and nutrient tank, or should I change the pot as well?

I mist them every day with rain water for higher humidity , I'm thinking of using sphagnum over the top to retain more humidity, what's your advice for that?

Thank you for all the good advice and feedback!

The Pictures:

The Cambria first:




The phals:



The second one:


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Old 12-10-2010, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mayres View Post
I had the same question that Katrina had - I don't see a layer of water in the bottom of your pots? The plants look dry/dehydrating? If you use regular pots you need to place the pots themselves into a reservoir of water that is say an inch deep or so. I've seen this concept work very nicely.
They were just like that but I didn't take the pictures with the reservoirs.
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Old 12-10-2010, 04:27 PM
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I'm not an expert S/H grower - but do attempt to some degree - looks much better than earlier photos. Hopefully the real expert (Ray) will have a peek soon too! I'd be tempted to put some tape over those high holes?
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Old 12-10-2010, 04:31 PM
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Is it possible you can water the containers more frequently? JoBeth on this forum grows everything in pellets in pots with slots but waters every few days. Because the pot is clear you can tell when it needs watering.

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Old 12-11-2010, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brooke View Post
Is it possible you can water the containers more frequently? JoBeth on this forum grows everything in pellets in pots with slots but waters every few days. Because the pot is clear you can tell when it needs watering.

Brooke
Yes , If I keep the holes open I will add fresh water so that the level is the same until the general watering of the plants .
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Old 12-11-2010, 08:33 AM
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Personally, I would do three things different than what you have described and shown:

1) Move the oncidium intergeneric into the coarser LECA. It may be OK for now in the fine stuff, but they tend to put out an extensive network of roots, and they will eventually suffocate themselves.

2) Don't plant it so deeply. You have the bases of the pseudobulbs and the rhizome completely buried; they need to be at the surface, not under it.

3) For the phalaenopsis plants, I would go with a larger diameter pot, and spread the roots out so they are shallower in the pot. As it is, they are so close the the reservoir - maybe even in it in some places - that I am concerned they could suffocate and rot.
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Old 12-11-2010, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray View Post
Personally, I would do three things different than what you have described and shown:

1) Move the oncidium intergeneric into the coarser LECA. It may be OK for now in the fine stuff, but they tend to put out an extensive network of roots, and they will eventually suffocate themselves.

2) Don't plant it so deeply. You have the bases of the pseudobulbs and the rhizome completely buried; they need to be at the surface, not under it.

3) For the phalaenopsis plants, I would go with a larger diameter pot, and spread the roots out so they are shallower in the pot. As it is, they are so close the the reservoir - maybe even in it in some places - that I am concerned they could suffocate and rot.
Thank you for the reply Ray.
I will move the oncidium in coarser Leca, and will not plant it so deeply.
The Phals have the roots circa 2 cm above the reservoir. The pot's are made from old bottles thats way they are so small in diameter.

Thanks for the advice
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Old 12-15-2010, 06:57 AM
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What do you think, should I move the Phals. beck into the old pots ?
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