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Old 08-06-2009, 10:50 PM
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My first S/H

Hi all,
We had a most wonderful orchid sale here in Denver-$9.99 for most beautiful Phals. So I went around town to few of these stores and got myself should I say "few" Phals....
As always some of them were potted poorly, so I repotted them, and one of them into S/H as I found few good new roots there.
Please look at my pictures. Unfortunatly (I guess in this case) the Phal is blooming, but I couldn't wait.
The plastic container is 6" tall, 3 1/2" at the top and 2 1/2" at the bottom. The holes are about 1 3/4" from the base.
So, how did I do Please.....
All points will be well taken
Thank you so much....
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My first S/H-100_2794.jpg   My first S/H-100_2795.jpg   My first S/H-100_2797.jpg  

Last edited by orchidea; 08-06-2009 at 11:03 PM.
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Old 08-07-2009, 12:22 AM
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ooo!! I did my first s/h in the same tumbler in blue! Looks very nice!!
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Old 08-07-2009, 05:47 AM
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That looks good to me! Keep us posted on how it does!
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Old 08-07-2009, 08:07 AM
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At first, I was amazed that the algae grew in such a nice, regular pattern!!!
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Old 08-08-2009, 01:32 AM
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hahhaha, i thought the same thing when i was looking at the thumbnail!
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Old 08-09-2009, 12:52 AM
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I like it so far!!!!!

Well,
I have repotted more than 15-20 orchids, and only 3 of them went to Hydroton. I can tell how much better the 3 of them are doing even in these few short days. My first Phal has opened one bloom and ready to open the next one.
Wow!!!!!
I am going tomorrow to by more Hydroton. I found a store that sells the 50L bag for $29. I think I might get 2 bags.......
The only problem for me is that I think I'll have to water my plants every other day, and it's all because of our dry air here.
I was just wondering, what if I drill the holes a little higher
I should read some of your threads here. I remember seeing something about that....., sorry.....
Thank you all, for all your help...
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Old 08-09-2009, 09:38 AM
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If you're seeing a reaction after only a few days, it has nothing to do with S/H culture, per se. If they were limp and perked up, it's just because of the fact they are now getting sufficient water. If the non-s/h plants are suffering, maybe they need something more.

Be sure you soak the LECA thoroughly (at least overnight; I prefer 24 hours minimum) before use. If you didn't do that, the pellets are still absorbing moisture very quickly and it looks like the evaporation is rapid. Water it very frequently for a couple of weeks, and it will 'catch up".

Putting the holes higher really doesn't help much, and can actually hurt, if the reservoir impinges on the root system.

I strongly urge you to "cool it" on changing over. Semi-hydroponics is an entirely different culture method, not just the use of LECA as a medium and maintaining a reservoir. Now that you have a few plants in S/H, see how it goes with them for the next couple of months as their root systems convert. Do a wholesale changeover, and you'll likely sustain some substantial losses, and that will be due to improper timing of repotting, not to the new culture method.
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Old 08-09-2009, 10:12 AM
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I'm curious. Ray, I'm sure you know the answer. I thought when repotting to S/H, shouldn't the pot size still be just enough for the plants root system? Or am I mistaken? when I saw Orchidea's orchids, my first thought was the tumbler is too large.(but I don't know the extent of the orchid's root system either) Not to be funny here, but Does size really matter?
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Old 08-09-2009, 11:17 AM
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Thank you Ray for your words of wisdom. I was thinking to cool down actually myself. Lucky for my orchids I have to go to work, so I have less time to kill them ......
Bu t I have two plants that look like they are in need of repotting ASAP. I could be wrong of course.... I was thinking to put them into Hydroton without waiting for them to finish blooming. Please see the picture. It's such pretty one, I want him to survive....

Ray, I will listen to you and take it slow, thank you.

I did soak LECA before repotting. My 3 plants in S/H are still doing OK. But the other ones in the mix are so-so. Most of the ones that are doing bad are the ones I am trying to rescue.

Oh, and the "size" question syndywindy posted is a good one. I was just assuming that the roots need some time before they hit the water. I have the other one where the new root is almost at the water level. I think this container is too small (please see picture 3 & 4). I just don't think it's a good idea to change the containers too often ...
So, it does sound funny, but BIG or SMALL
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My first S/H-100_2803.jpg   My first S/H-100_2800.jpg   My first S/H-100_2804.jpg   My first S/H-100_2805.jpg  
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Old 08-10-2009, 09:21 AM
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Pot size has been traditionally chosen to coincide with the amount of expected plant growth over the life of the medium. In other words, if you expect your medium to need to be replaced in about a year, then you use a pot large enough for a year's growth. As LECA doesn't ever decompose, pot size becomes less critical.

Another reason smaller pots are often chosen is that the top-surface (where the evaporation occurs) is large relative to the volume, and the root mass is high relative to the amount of medium, so it dries more rapidly than it does in a big pot. Again, in S/H, that doesn't really make a lot of difference, as the medium is kept relatively constant.

Some plants - notably dendrobiums, I understand - really prefer to be somewhat pot-bound, but I have gone in a completely opposite direction with phals. Those, I tend to put into pots that are as much as the same diameter as their leaf-spans. Using the 4th picture in Orchidea's post above, I'd look for a pot about as big as the plant to its right. (I understand that's a pretty radical approach, but bear with me.)

I have found that phals in large diameter pots tend to put their aerial roots down into the medium, rather than stretching them out into the air. I have theorized from that behavior that the plants are "reaching out" for something to "grab", in order to find a more stable mechanical base upon which to anchor themselves.

A phal has quite a heavy mass of vegetative tissue sitting on top of a relatively small base that's held in place by the roots in the medium. In a strong wind, those big, broad leaves are veritable "sails" that can tear the plant right off of that base. What we refer to as aerial roots tend to come out a bit higher on the plant, so can act as "guy wires", giving the plant more stability.

Once those roots have submerged themselves in the medium, they can actively absorb more water and nutrients, giving the plant the opportunity to grow faster.

Concerning the distance from the roots to the reservoir, I tend to go closer (squat pots) with phals, and farther (tall pots) with others, taking advantage of the moisture gradient that naturally occurs in the pot. It really isn't all that critical though, as all plants eventually put their roots right down into the reservoir, anyway. Just don't pot them up with the roots submerged.
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Old 08-10-2009, 04:16 PM
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Thanks Ray. I had to read your response a couple times to make sure I understood it all, but it makes sense after you think on it a while.
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Old 08-11-2009, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndywindy View Post
Thanks Ray. I had to read your response a couple times to make sure I understood it all, but it makes sense after you think on it a while.
You're in deep trouble, Synda!

I try to study orchid culture, putting the various phenomena into terms that "make sense" scientifically. If you are seeing the same sense I am, we should both be worried!
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Old 08-11-2009, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray View Post
You're in deep trouble, Synda!

I try to study orchid culture, putting the various phenomena into terms that "make sense" scientifically. If you are seeing the same sense I am, we should both be worried!
Gosh, I had to think on this comment a bit also. Maybe that's my problem, I think too much! I have a heavy science backround, with alot of radiation physics. There must be a way to combine that with orchid growing, I'll have to ponder this a while!
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Old 08-14-2009, 10:46 AM
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I have done what Ray suggests not doing. That is, jumping right in. I have not had good luck with other media. I started repotting into LECA at the beginning of this month. Each plant I transplanted had what I thought were decent roots, but most had very little. Lots of root rot. I have transplanted all 20 of my orchids into semi hydroponics. None of them have had any shock to speak of. I have continued to see growth. One phal in spike is growing and I can see the color of the growing bud. A few phals had older lower leaves turn yellow, but new growth at the top.

My feeling is, if no luck with regular media, what do I have to lose? Also, if they have no roots in regular medium,and if the plant will die in cocoa husk chips in my care, they can just as easily die in semi hydroponics!!!!

We'll see in a few months if I am right or not. Thanks again for the help, Ray
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Old 08-16-2009, 10:22 PM
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Thank you flyfishdoc, I am glad to hear I am not the only one.
I transplanted 4 more Phals into S/H today, but still have few in bark/moss combination. I am just waiting to see some new growth in them till transplanting them too.
I really like the idea that I can see the most of the roots and the level of the water left in the reservoir. I just hate to wonder about condition of the roots inside as I had some bad experience where I had the most beautiful blooms and the rotten roots.........
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Old 08-17-2009, 11:03 AM
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I thought I would wait a month or so before I posted my results in pictures. I too have seen growth, but I assumed most of this is the continued growth that the plants were doing before s/h.

But I can say, the new leaves on my Onc. Sharry Baby are stiff, and the older limp ones are firmer than they were 2-3 weeks ago. Threre is no doubt that the leaf stiffness is due to my medium change. My others have stiff leaves also now. I love my stiffies
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Old 08-20-2009, 11:03 AM
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Ray

Ray, I thought the same as you and Rivka did about algae. haha. Also, and as always, thank you very much for all of your wonderful information. I know that it was directed to Orchidea, but I'm sure everyone appreciated your help. By the way, I am having very good results from my experience so far with SH. Orchidea, if you are reading this...best of luck.
Vicki



Quote:
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Pot size has been traditionally chosen to coincide with the amount of expected plant growth over the life of the medium. In other words, if you expect your medium to need to be replaced in about a year, then you use a pot large enough for a year's growth. As LECA doesn't ever decompose, pot size becomes less critical.

Another reason smaller pots are often chosen is that the top-surface (where the evaporation occurs) is large relative to the volume, and the root mass is high relative to the amount of medium, so it dries more rapidly than it does in a big pot. Again, in S/H, that doesn't really make a lot of difference, as the medium is kept relatively constant.

Some plants - notably dendrobiums, I understand - really prefer to be somewhat pot-bound, but I have gone in a completely opposite direction with phals. Those, I tend to put into pots that are as much as the same diameter as their leaf-spans. Using the 4th picture in Orchidea's post above, I'd look for a pot about as big as the plant to its right. (I understand that's a pretty radical approach, but bear with me.)

I have found that phals in large diameter pots tend to put their aerial roots down into the medium, rather than stretching them out into the air. I have theorized from that behavior that the plants are "reaching out" for something to "grab", in order to find a more stable mechanical base upon which to anchor themselves.

A phal has quite a heavy mass of vegetative tissue sitting on top of a relatively small base that's held in place by the roots in the medium. In a strong wind, those big, broad leaves are veritable "sails" that can tear the plant right off of that base. What we refer to as aerial roots tend to come out a bit higher on the plant, so can act as "guy wires", giving the plant more stability.

Once those roots have submerged themselves in the medium, they can actively absorb more water and nutrients, giving the plant the opportunity to grow faster.

Concerning the distance from the roots to the reservoir, I tend to go closer (squat pots) with phals, and farther (tall pots) with others, taking advantage of the moisture gradient that naturally occurs in the pot. It really isn't all that critical though, as all plants eventually put their roots right down into the reservoir, anyway. Just don't pot them up with the roots submerged.
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Old 08-20-2009, 11:09 AM
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orchidea

Hi,
As I mentioned in my post to Ray....best of luck to you.
Vicki



Quote:
Originally Posted by orchidea View Post
Hi all,
We had a most wonderful orchid sale here in Denver-$9.99 for most beautiful Phals. So I went around town to few of these stores and got myself should I say "few" Phals....
As always some of them were potted poorly, so I repotted them, and one of them into S/H as I found few good new roots there.
Please look at my pictures. Unfortunatly (I guess in this case) the Phal is blooming, but I couldn't wait.
The plastic container is 6" tall, 3 1/2" at the top and 2 1/2" at the bottom. The holes are about 1 3/4" from the base.
So, how did I do Please.....
All points will be well taken
Thank you so much....
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Old 08-20-2009, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brit6v View Post
Hi,
As I mentioned in my post to Ray....best of luck to you.
Vicki
Thank you Vicki. I do need a lot of LUCK!!!
I jumped into orchids the hard way. I decided to fight this misconception a lot of people have that orchid is to be discarded after blooms are gone. I am surprised at some growers that hang a little lable on the orchid saying that it could be discarded, just like any other cut flower....... I just got one of those in Lowes, and I am going to try to save it.
Well, this is a real challenge, as you probably know, as I could not stay on top of rot in roots..... Rot was staying on top of me.... while I was using the bark mix.
Thanks to Ray and to S/H I am managing my success line to level from going straigh down to about horizontal now....
I have noticed that the regular bark mix will do if you have a very healthy plant to deal with. But not all of them are.......
I am going to Santa Fe for the weekend (there is life beyond orhids...), but I will be posting pictures of my First S/H Phal here soon. It's doing very good so far (but it was healthy to begin with). I even managed to save one Phal putting it in S/H, and to my surprise even the flowers that looked wilted just perked up after about a week in S/H!!!!! Oh yes, and it's shooting a new leaf too!!!!!!
I'll try to post pictures of that one as well.
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