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Hi, I've read tons of info on watering Phals, but I never seem to get it right according to a good number of my Phals. They grow very well for some time, suddenly, the buds/flowers/spikes start to wilt. I ussually stick my finger in the pots as far down as I can go. When the upper and middle of the Sphagnum Moss is bone dry and the bottom is humid, I water again. I use tap water 1/2 dose of Dyna Grow 7-9-5 & 1/2 dose of Superthrive (which I found to be useful) in all watering except for 4th/5th watering of the month which is just "plain" water. I tried to get rain water whenever possible, but living in an apt in NYC it is very hard to do (e.g. containers left at fire escape misteriously dissapearing during T-storms). Should I wait until there is absolutely no humidity left in the pot before I water? Should I water more frequently? My Phals sitting on a humdity tray on top of a table in front of a SW window (they like that light I know that), no direct sun, I have blinds for afternoon sun. I just added fluorescent lights (yesterday Aug. 14th) about 12 inches above the plants to supplement daylight changes. I want them to grow large root systems. |
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Try using a bamboo skewer to test for when to water. You can get a whole pack for less than a buck at the grocery store. When you pull it out and it is dry - water. Personally I find sphag difficult to manage - plants I have purchased with this media often have it packed into the pots tighter than concrete - but I know some people love it. If you don't know what you are doing it can be a real problem for root rot - primarily for the reason that you are noting - dry on top and still wet on the bottom - so, people water and the roots at the bottom end up wet all the time and eventually rot. Overwatering is your phals worst nightmare - when in doubt wait a few days.
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Absolutely agreed with you! Dry on top, wet at bottom! All plants I have bought at Home Depot have Sphagnum Moss so packed it is very hard to remove plant from pot to check roots. I thought, wait until Sphag dries, then water. I just don't know better How come the grower can get the Phals to grow so large and beautiful using that overly packed Shagnum Moss? That is what confuses me! |
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This is just a guess and maybe someone will correct me, but it is possible that they are packed this way just before going off to market? Another thing to consider is that they are grown in greenhouse environments that are very different than what the majority of us can provide - unless you are fortunate enough to live in a Florida-like environment. The challenge for many of us is to keep reading, asking, learning - determine what the best we can do with media, water, light, etc. within the confines of each of our own orchid growing environments - all so very different - some orchids will do well in just about any place and others are very specific as to what they will tolerate - so half the challenge is selecting a type that is good for your area and how you are going to care for it. Good luck and enjoy!
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I have repotted virtually all my Phals I bought in overpacked Sphag. Either they are in Sphag loosely mixed up with packing peanuts, or a mix of Sphag, bark and peanuts. Yesterday, I bought one that I just repotted in a mix of equal ammounts of Sphag, bark, clay pebbles & packing peanuts. Which of these mixes are better?
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I have repotted virtually all my Phals I bought in overpacked Sphag. Either they are in Sphag loosely mixed up with packing peanuts, or a mix of Sphag, bark and peanuts. Yesterday, I bought one that I just repotted in a mix of equal amounts of Sphag, bark, clay pebbles & packing peanuts. Which of these mixes are better? How often should I water them?
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Back to the skewer suggestion - when the skewer comes out dry - time to water. In all honesty, once you have done this for awhile you will be able to tell from the weight of the plant & pot when this is - very light. Always better to under water than over water. Once you have gone too long the leaves will actually start to droop and show indentation along the veins that show it is getting dehydrated. I'm not sure where the point of no return is, but it is amazing how quickly they can perk back up - they are survivors! :-) Depending upon media and other environmental factors the watering time could be as often as every few days to once every 1-3 weeks. mike
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Depends on temperature and humidity levels and health of plant/roots to start with. I would plant in your media of choice and just let it dry out really well before you rewater and also recommend a root stimulant like Superthrive. mike
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If you have one/some sitting out of media right now you could spritz it a few times a day for a few days before repotting it, but I don't know that you are going to gain much by waiting. Personally I would go for it right away - others may weight in differently - will see. People who live in warm humid climates often mount these like they grow on trees - with no media at all. Of course then they need to be tuned in much closer to their water needs than when potted. mike
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| Phal watering problems???
I just read all of this and remember that when you are just getting hooked on orchids it is kind of scairy. Phals are pretty easy and do seem to really want to live. I have noticed with mine that they really seem to like the hydro thing. I got the plastic pots (I think 8in tall???) and agregate from First Rays. They have really done will with this and watering is much easier. You can see when water is gone/low as well as humidity on sides of the pot as it is clear. He also provides good info on how to do it all. You can re-use pots and agregate forever. Not as many buggy issues. Some orchids don't do as well in it but those seem to. My 1 Vanda that is hanging on I can probably credit to this method. It is as ok as it is only because the humidity is so high in there. If it weren't for that, it would have been dead very long ago here in my house in MN. Just a suggestion for making things a little easier. Good Luck!!! SK |
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Thanks all! I just repotted in one of those hydro pots (it has many holes in it) but I use a mix of bark, clay pebbles (also hydro), Shag and packing peanuts. I also repotted it in a smaller pot that it used to be in (from 6' to 5') because it has lost some roots. I placed it under my fluo lights together with th rest. I figure it will need the energy lights supply (if these lights supply any !).
Last edited by flaume; 08-16-2006 at 02:58 PM. |
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| Hydro...
You can do whatever works really. You could look at the ones in rays site. They have 2 holes approx 1 in up from bottom. I think I probably have a few like you have with a little of everything but the peanuts. They drive mw nuts because they keep popping out sometimes when I water. SK |
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Hi, 3 weeks ago I decided to try this method with 3 of my phals and the roots they are developping are incredible! really big and fat.... one of them has started putting out 2 spikes (it's only ever had one before)..if they carry on growing like this I think all of my collection will be replanted ! as, apart from the results it's alot lot easier to "water" ..just have to keep the bowl topped up! oh & one of them had a root growing above a leaf (one of those 'floating up' towards the sky...) and I just noticed earlier it has now literally "cut through" the leaf and growing into the pot.......seeing it's a lower leaf I'm not that bothered but it's amazing to see...! |
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I have started using KLN from Dynagrow and am seeing the same good results as superthrive. Never heard of Liquid Karma. WHere would I find something to read about it ??
__________________ Tom Richardson, Texas |
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About two months ago I decided to try the hydro potting method on a couple of my Phals and the results have been amazing. These two are my happiest plants. Now I have added two Dens and one Catt to the orchids I have potted in the clay agregate and they are all happy. (Happy=new leaves/growth and some bloom spikes) This may be in part due to the fact that I tend to over water and this helps save me from myself. LLW
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