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I noticed a yellow leaf on one of my harlequin phals. and when I went to investigate the whole crown fell off my orchid, I guess it's toast, or can it regrow a new plant? |
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| I've never had crown rot like that. The only Phal I've had an issue with the crown is still doing well. After I noticed some dark looking tissue, I treated it with peroxide, and also physan20. So now it's not doing much, except dropping a leaf near where the rot began. Maybe check out this link regarding crown rot.Example of Stem rot or Crown rot in Phalaenopsis
__________________ JoBeth |
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| Nope not a root left in there. It was packed very tightly in sphag. in the middle, then a layer of roots and then more sphag. all around them. I guess that will teach me to check the roots when I get a new one home. ![]()
__________________ ~Cheryl~ |
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| The same happened to me very recently. The crown fell off within a week. It was very fast. But I still have some good roots. So now, I put this orchid in "the hospital corner" and maybe a new leave will grow again... |
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| Mine has been given a proper burial. There was absolutely nothing that could be done for that one, not a viable root in the bunch. Can someone explain this peroxide use, b/c I have another that is not doing to well, that I'd like to save if possible. Thanks for the link JoBeth.
__________________ ~Cheryl~ |
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| I just read your reply about the roots. Jeeze, if there isnt a single root left than there probably isn't much else you can do. It might very well be his time to go... And what you noted about the compacted moss, especially when you said it was packed alot in the center, well, thats a strong indicator of what possibly happened to your orchid. When there is too much media towards the interior of the pot, it provides a place for the media to remain extremely wet and soggy after watering. This alone can rot the roots and the crown. The roots become very brown and mushy and then are open to infection which can further the problem. --This is why some sources advise people to place pure white styrofoam peanuts (that are not made of cornstarch) towards the interior of the pot when repotting. It greatly reduces the amount of media in the center and prevents rot. Others may have other options for media reduction in the center. And also, with such compacted moss, there was probably very limited air circulation allowed around the roots, which further increases the problem of sogginess. Well, im sorry. you probably know all this already, you just probably didn't realize how packed the moss was until you got in there and inspected. If youre like me, you probably assumed it was fine when you bought it. (Ive done that!!) And ever time we water it, we pack it down even more.--which is why some people stray away from using moss as their media of choice. Don't let it get ya down. Everything happens for a reason. And I am deffinitly not an expert, but I am sure there are highly professional orchid growers out there that have faced a problem like this when they first started out and now look where they are! Let me know what happens... goodluck again!
__________________ ~Christina~ |
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| Peroxide Use Hydrogen peroxide and cinnamon are good remedies for leaf problems like bacterial rot or crown rot. Hydrogen peroxide can be poured directly into the crown of infected plants or it can also be dabbed onto leaves (that have an obvious wet spot) with a disposable cotton swab. And cinnamon can be dusted onto wet bacterial rot on leaves or into the crown. Using Peroxide: So, if you're suspecting crown rot, one way to prevent it is to pour about a teaspoon full of Hydrogen peroxide on the crown of the plant once per week. Peroxide works very well because it is such a good oxidizer. Being a good oxidizer allows the rupturing of cells of both bacteria and fungi which in turn, kill the organisms. I suggest only using the 1 teaspoon per week. Using more, especially if you think a plant is really bad and probably needs more, will do more harm than good. Completely washing/flushing your orchid with it will harm the chlorophyll molecules in your plant. These molecules are necessary for your plantshealth and survival. Or if you wanted to try something else, some people buy Kocide 101 and make a paste with it, then they use a q-tip and paint the inside of the crown with the paste. Some swear by this and say that they never got crown rot after using it. (the only downside is that I read it was like $54 for just an 8 oz bottle) Physan 20 is something else that can be used, but it would probably only be helpful mainly as a preventative of crown rot and less as an overall treatment and it is only a fungicide, not a bacteriocide. Phyton 27, is a preventative also, and unlike physan 20, it not only helps treat bacterial infections but also fungus. ***if you want my opinion, i think trying the peroxide is your best bet. It is accessable at pratically any store, it is cheap, and has been known to really help and be successful at it. Hope this helps some.
__________________ ~Christina~ |
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| In the interest of saving all orchids with nothing but roots left... I suggest that the plants be taken out of the pots, all mix removed from the roots and have the bare root mass placed near a window, being sprayed with a very very weak fertilizer solution 3 or so times daily.
__________________ - Aaron |
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| I ordered my Physan 20 from Orchid Care - Orchid Culture - Practical Orchid Care Information I used it for a problem similar to yours and I haven't seen much progress from my plant yet. I asked people about it, and a lot of people seemed to shy away from the stuff. Some said it was harsh and I needed to be careful how much and how often to use it, others said it isnt good to use when youre unsure whats wrong with your roots because your roots could have a fungal infection and Physan only treats bacterial infections. If you want a first hand account about physan 20, well here it is: I suspected something wasn't right with my phal's roots. And before I read any threads on this forum, I searched the web and saw some places selling the physan. I bought it and read the instructions carefully. I did everything I was told to do. I took my plant out to repot, the soggy roots that I cut off I sprayed with the physan and then I made a bowl of it mixed with a gallon of water and sat the roots and crown in it for a few minutes. I carefully repotted it and now... every single one of my pretty flowers have fallen off and the spikes are slowly yellowing. So, now I am left with just two yellowing bare spikes that were in beautiful bloom before using the phsyan. Maybe it wasnt the physan 20 at all that caused this, but I can't think of anything else it could have been. All i know is, that "i" personally will not be using it anymore to treat a suspected problem unless my phal miraculously re-blooms. I wish I would have learned about the peroxide, because I would have tried that instead.
__________________ ~Christina~ |
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| Thanks for all the help with the peroxide and Aaron I'll try to keep that in mind if I come across one with just roots left. How long would you leave it that way? Cheryl
__________________ ~Cheryl~ |
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| Christina, I guess I'll know not to bother with thephysan 20, I'll try the peroxide on the other phal in question, since it seemed to have a leaf turn yellow over night.
__________________ ~Cheryl~ |
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| I read these horror-story-threads with interest. Since I am trying to learn about orchids I go through all the procedures mentioned and more to save an orchid that, with the stress of the conditions, if it survives, will unlikely produce for a couple of years (which I may not have) Some have said, unless it is an unusual specimen, difficult to replace, or has some other (read here-sentimental) value, it's better to dump the plant and by another or concentrate on what is left. The best value of posting here is to decide what went wrong, not how to save it. IMHO Nick |
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| Sassismom, ideally you would leave it with its roots exposed to light and air forever, because thats how it grows in nature. It will always grow faster like this. But... since most people stick their orchids in pots to avoid certain hassles, you would pot it up after it has grown a square inch or two of leaf surface. Quote:
__________________ - Aaron |
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