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| It depends on where the bulb was broken off. It needs to include at least a little bit of rhizome in order for it to work. There are other stipulations, but yes, it should be possible. Just keep it in lightly moist sphagnum, give good light, and rooting hormone might help too.
__________________ - Aaron |
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| Determine if it is a Cattleya or Oncidium alliance. Spidery makes me think Oncidium. Both can root from back bulbs, but it is easier and faster with Oncidium. Cattleya will take years to flower and Oncidium much less
__________________ jerry |
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| If it is a Cattleya hybrid as you suspect (posting a picture would tell us for sure) it will probably not re-root. What it may do is start a new growth and that new growth will root. A 1-bulb division is a small division, the recommended viable division size is usually 3+, so you will probably have a bit of a wait on your hands before you get any flowers. Here's what I'd do with it: 1) Get a small pot, probably 2-inch is big enough and fill it iwth standard orchid bark mix. 2) Secure a stake in the middle of the pot. 3) Place the single pseudobulb, with the base setting firmly on the mix, and secure it to the stake using twist-ties or string. 4) Wait for a new shoot to appear at the bottom. When the new shoot starts to grow roots, begin watering. There's no point in watering until the plant has roots because theplant has no way of absorbing any moisture. Get a good Cattleya culture sheet like the one found at AOS | Home. For now, give it slightly less light than the clture sheet recommends.
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| I think I would keep the medium moist, bark or moss. I believe bulbs can take in some moisture thru their skin. Cymbidium bulbs are typically 1/3 to half buried in damp mix to start. Since you're in Florida, the above advice is probably good. If you see the bulb start to shrivel any, switch to sphag & bag until you have roots starting, usually from a new growth.
__________________ Cynthia Prescott Orchid Society |
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| Photos of that bulb... Photos. What a marvelous idea! ok, I'm attaching a photo of each side of the bulb, and then as it perches in a 2 inch pot filled with standard orchid mix. Since there's no point of reference, I will say that the bulb itself is about the size of a large pitted prune. I, too, am of the idea it's in the Oncidium family...all of the Catt bulbs I've seen are rounder (based on the whole two that I have). Thanks for all of the advice so far, and I hope these photos help with additional tips or tricks. |
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| What I've seen in situations like this is root formation at the point of connection between the bulb and the leaves. I had a Onc that was badly potted at purchase, and had to have the majority of the rotting roots removed. When it was re potted rootless, it surprised me by forming all of the roots in the crotch of the leaves! So, don't give up, if anything its only going to cost you a little growing space. -Incidentally that plant is still going strong, and has even formed new pbulbs. |
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| For what its worth your orchid is some type of oncidium alliance plant, not a cattleya. But I'm afraid your pseudobulb won't root dtje, it's been improperly divided, cut off from the rhizome, and so the part that would grow roots and a new growth are missing. It won't grow roots and a new growth for you. abneofelis, roots don't grow from between the bulb and the leaves, they grow from the base of the bulb.
__________________ Last edited by kmarch; 05-17-2008 at 05:32 PM. |
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| Please do abneofelis. This would be interesting to see. We should note that this is by far the exception and is not typical nor should it be expected behavior for anoncidium alliance orchid. It's unusual.
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| I'm curious also. I've have a couple of oncidiums that insist on sending roots skyward. I'm wondering if the roots noted (leaf/bulb crotch) may have started from a rhizome fragment and exposed themselves at the observed location? Let's have a round for botanical science! |
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| Ever hopeful, I have the space to take a "wait and see" attitude. Everyone's responses are appreciated, as if this little experiment does fail, I'll have the explanations to offer the true owner of this little bulb and she will know that neither of us had much of a chance! At some point in the future I'll either deliver "y'all aren't gonna believe this!" or "y'all nailed this one". Happy orchid day to everyone. |
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| I would agree that unless there's more attached to the base of the pseudobulb, that it wont grow. It's been cut right into the bulb. ![]() If abneofelis has a pic of the roots growing out from above the bulb, then I'll be the first one to say "Well I'll be a monkey's Uncle! .....er Aunt!"
__________________ Patti |
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| I had it happen once to an Anacheilium (Encyclia) cocheata, a plant with a very similar bulb. It produced what might be called a keiki at the top of the bulb. I believe it did so because all of the eyes at the base were dead. BUT, that particular plant had a few roots on the bottom of the bulb to support the keiki above. I'm thinking that if this were a very special plant and I wanted to give it the best chance at survival, I would sphag and bag it, or bury the bulb up to the leaves. I'm guessing, from the number of times I have lost plants to dead eyes and only one that did this, your chances are about one in a hundred. Maybe you can improve your odds by putting some rooting hormone on the top of the bulb.
__________________ Cynthia Prescott Orchid Society |
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| Thanks, Cynthia. I clearly have nothing to lose, so I'm going to try your 'bury the bulb' and rooting hormone ideas. I learn by doing, so this should be interesting.
__________________ dt ![]() "Be kinder than necessary, for everyone you meet is fighting some kind of battle" |