Several questions on conditions

[Damaioshin]

Hello, i am a first time orchid grower. I have recently (a month ago) bought a Phalaenopsis from a local plant store to hopefully begin growing orchids.

First off i immediatly repotted due to the fact that the plant store had the orchid in soil instead of mix. I expected to loose my flowers due to the repotting... which it did.

My first questions regard the repotting. It seems it did not take well as my plant lost most of its top roots from what i can see (they are all brown). Also, it is still very flimsy in the pot as it has not seemed to root itself well. Any help on fixing this would be greatly appreciated. I was considering repotting again...but am afraid on putting too much stress on the plant.

My next dilema is on my living conditions. Light is not a problem, but temperature and humidity are. I live in a one room area with no control over temperature (i am in the military and live in a barracks). My room fluctuates between 78 and 83 degrees F. With 35%-55% humidity. I was wondering if this very warm constant temperature is going to be bad for my plant. And i figure the low humidity will, to which much is blamed on the weather.

Any suggestions will also be very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance!!

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

Don't worry too much about the humidity. We have lots of people in Prescott growing Phals in low humidity OK (Arizona, 15-20%). The warm room you have is very good for Phals as they come from warm climates. Just don't let the Phals get direct sun light as they are low light plants, very bright, but not direct. Firm roots are live roots. You may not have pressed the mix (bark?) into the pot enough when you repotted. The plant should not be able to wobble in its pot. Did you set the plant low enough into the pot? Only the leaves should be above the mix, except those roots that have gotten out of hand and can't be coaxed down into the new pot/mix. Use the skewer technique to check on moisture in the pot. Place a clean new wood/bamboo skewer into the pot and leave it there. When you think it is time to water,pull the skewer and look at the color. If it looks very damp/wet, don't water yet. The skewer for a Phal should show just a tiny bit of dampness left when its time to water. Phals shouldn't dry out completely, but they must not be kept sopping wet either. That is sure death. When you get more orchids, don't share skewers between pots, that is a sure method for transfering virus. Cynthia, Prescott, AZ

[Damaioshin]

Thanks for the reply I am glad to know that the hot temperature isnt going to affect my orchid negatively. And since i come from Louisiana originally, anything below 70% humidity seems low to me

I did end up repotting it this afternoon, not only to get a firmer plant (which it has now) but also to look at the root situation. And i am afraid to say it was not good.

It definatly looked over-watered...many of the roots were rotted and some were very soft. I had to cut at least half off. I was wondering what the chances of my orchid are for survival? And what i should do to ensure that survival if it is possible?

Sorry i have so many questions...but thanks for caring enough to read my dilemas

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

If half the roots were still alive, you are in good shape. Those with real problems are the ones with almost no roots left. Keep an eye on the plant for any desication of the leaves. At the earliest sign of leaf desication, put a plastic baggy loosely over the plant. Low humidity is OK when a plant has good roots to keep up with losses thru the leaves. The baggy is just temporary, until the plant has had a chance to add a few more roots to the pot, and maybe there were enough roots left that you won't have a problem. Good luck, Cynthia

If you use the skewer method to determine when the plant needs water like Cynthia suggests, I think most of your problems will be solved. And Cynthia gave you good advice about the humdity and temperature. Somehow in the fall you will need to give it a two week drop of fifteen degrees at night in order to set spike for bloom. Perhaps you can open a nearby window on the cool fall nights.

When the orchid nursery repots their orchids they use 'dibble' sticks to pound the bark around the roots. When they get done they can pick the plant up by its leaves and it will not fall out of the pot. I find this too horrific for me to do, I'm afraid I'll kill the roots. But what I do do is use the rubber end of a pencil to tuck the medium around the roots and into any bare spots, and then they are repotted much more securely.

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

I don't like using any tool on my orchids that isn't sterilized, including the back end of a pencil. The old potting sticks used during the time when osmuda fiber was popular tranfered plenty of virus. I use my hands on the top of the bark and press it into the pot, just enough to make the plant stable and can lift the plant with pot coming along for the ride, but I am only touching bark at that point, not roots. When bark needs to be pushed into wholes between roots, I check root layout ahead of time, then make sure my fingernails do not stab the roots. Thin gloves in this part of the procedure are very helpful. Cynthia

I never thought of that, Cynthia. The next time I repot I'll cover the pencil with fresh plastic wrap for each plant.

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

Use pieces of freezer bag, it's thicker and tougher. Cynthia