Orchid Care for Phalenonopis & Paphiopedilum Orchids

[fred]

The common name for the Phalaenonopsis is the "moth orchid" as the flower petals resemble the wings of a moth. Well-grown plants can flower often, sometimes with a few flowers throughout the year, though the main season is late winer into spring. Average home temperatures and conditions are usually sufficient. Flower stems on certain hybreds can be forced to rebloom by cutting the tip off after initial flowering. Only healthy plants should be induced to flower repeatedly.

LIGHT is easy to provide for phalaenopsis. They grow easily in a bright window, with little or now sun. An east window is ideal in the home; shaded south or west windows are acceptable. In overcast, northern winter climates, a full south exposure may be needed. Artificial lighting can easily be provided. Fourfluorescent tubes in one fixture supplemented by incandescent bulbs are placed 6 to 12 inches above the leaves, 12 to 16 hours a day, following natural day length. No shadow should be seen if you hold your hand one foot above a plant's leaves.

TEMPERATURES for phalaenopsis should usually be above 60° degrees F at night, and range between 75 and 85° F or more during the day. Although higher temperatures force faster vegetative growth, higher humidity and air movement must accompany higher temperatures, the recommended maximum being 90 to 95° F. Night temperatures to 55° F are desirable for several weeks in the autumn to initiate flower spikes. Fluctuating temperatures can cause bud drop on plants with buds ready to open.

WATER is especially critical for phalaenopsis. Because they have no major water-storage organs other than their leaves, they must never completely dry out. Plants should be thoroughly watered and not watered again until nearly dry. In the heat of summer in a dry climate, this may be every other day; in the winter in a cool northern greenhouse, it may be every ten days. Water only in the morning, so that the leaves dry by nightfall, to prevent rot.

HUMIDITY is important to phalaenopsis, the recommended humidity between 50 and 80 percent. In humid climated, as in greenhouses, it is imperitive that the humid air is moving. Leaves should be dry as soon as possible, always by nightfall. In the home, set the plants on trays of gravel, partially filed with water, so that the posts never sit in water.


FERTILIZE on a regular schedule, especially if the weather is warm, when the plants are most often growing. Twice a month applications of high-nitrogen fertilizer (such as 30-10-10) are appropriate where bark-based media are used. Otherwise, a balanced fertilizer is best. When flowering is desired, a high phosphorus fertilizer (such as 10-30-20) can be applied to promote blooming. Some growers apply fertilizer at one-quarter strength with every watering; this is best for warm, humid conditions. When cooler, or under overcast conditions, fertilizer should be applied twice per month at weak strength.

POTTING is done in the spring, immediately after flowering. Phalaenopsis plants msut be potted in a porous mix. Potting is usually done every one to three years. Mature plants can grow in the same container until the potting medium starts to decompose, usually in two years. Root rot occurs if plants are left in a soggy medium. Seedlings usually grow fast enough to need repotting yearly, and should be repotted in a fine-grade medium. Mature plants are potted in a medium-grade mix. To repot, remove all the old medium from the roots, trim soft, rotted roots, and spread the remaining roots over a handful of medium in the bottom of a new pot. Fill the rest of the pot with medium, working it among the roots, so that the junction of the roots and the stem is at the top of the medium.



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Paphiopedilums, the lady's slipper orchids, come from south east Asia and the Asian-Pacific islands. They are semiterrestrial, growing in humus and other material on the forest floor, on cliffs in pockets of humus, and occasionally in trees. They are easy to grow at home, under lights or in the greenhouse.

These plants have flowers of heavy substance, lasting from one to three months. There are multi-flowered, sequentially flowered, and single flowered varieties of many different sizes, shapes and colors. To this day there is no accurate way to clone Paphiopedilums, making mass production difficult. Therefore the Paphiopedilum is one of the most unique and popularly collected orchids in the world. Many varieties can be grown easily indoors.

LIGHT is easier to provide for Paphiopedilums than many other types of orchids. They require shady conditions as in the hone in an east or west window, near a shaded south window, or even in a north window. In the greenhouse, shade must be provided. Give about 1000 to 1500 foot-candles. In the home fluorescent lighting is excellent; suspend two or four tubes six to twelve inches above the leaves.

TEMPERATURE for Paphiopedilums cover a considerable range. They are traditionally separated into three groups: the warm-growing mottled-leaved types, the cool-growing green-leaved types, and the warmer-growing strap-leaved multifloral Paphiopedulums.


Warm-growing types should be kept at 60 to 65° degrees F during the night and 75 to 85° degrees F or more during the day. Cool-growing types should be kept at 50 to 60° degrees F during the night and 75 to 85° degrees during the day. However, many growers raise all plants in the same temperature range with excellent results. The plants can stand night temperatures in the 40s if necessary (as when grown outside in mild climates), as well as temperatures to 95° F. Care must be taken to protect the plants from rot when cold (keep humidity low, and avoid moisture on leaves or in the crowns of the plants), and also to protct from burning when hot (shade more heavily and increase humidity and air movement around the plants).

WATER must be available at the roots constantly, because all plants in this genus have no pseudobulbs. All of these plants need a moist medium — never soggy, but never dry. Water once or twice a week depending on the medium in which they are planted and other cultural contditions such as temperature adn humidity.

HUMIDITY for paphiopedulum should be moderate, between 40% and 50%, which can be maintained in the home by setting the plants on trays of gravel, partially filled with water, so that the plants never sit in water. In a greenhouse, average humidity is sufficient. Using an evaporative cooling system in warm climates can increase the humidity. Air movement is essential, especially when humidity is high.

FERTILIZE on a regular schedule,but care must be taken to avoid burning of the fleshy, hairy roots. High-nitrogen fertilizers (such as 30-10-10) are recommended when potted in any fir-bark mix. In warm weather, some growers use half-strength applications every two weeks; others use one-quarter strength at every watering. It's important to fulsh with clear water monthly to leach excess fertilizer, which can burn the roots. In cool weather, fertilizer applications once a month are sufficient.

POTTING Paphs like fresh potting medium and are not tolerant of stale, broken down mix so annual repotting is recommended. Mixes vary tremendously; most are fine or medium-grade fir bark, with varying additives, such as perlite (sponge rock), course sand, charcoal, sphagnum moss or shreaded leaves. Moisture retention with excellent drainage is needed. Large plants can be divided by pulling or cutting the fans of the leaves apart, into clumps of three to five growths. Smaller divisions will grow, but may not flower. Before dividing, make sure each proposed division has a full set of healthy roots. Spread the roots over a small amount of medium in the bottom of the pot and fill with medium, so that the junction of roots and stems is buried 1/2 inch deep in the center of the pot. Do not overpot but select a pot just large enough to comfortably accomodate the roots.

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

Paphiopedilums.
Most growers with large collections of Paphs and commercial growers of Paphs recommend repotting at least every year or oftener. Paphs, it seems, are particularly intollerant of stale mix. They have relative tough roots, and can take repotting well.

[sandra]

This is all so appreciated. Thank you Fred and Cynthia for this info on lady slippers! I'm on a big hunt now to grab up every one I come across here in south Fla. I just love them!

[Atriel]

Thank you so much for this. There are a few things that I'm going to do differently.

[fred]

thats what we are here for

I am pleased that you found the information useful

sandy you are going on a paph hunt please keep us informed

more orchids hehehe

[NancyG]

Thanks for the info.

Sandra please let me know if you find a good place to buy Paphs in South Florida.

NancyG

[lacyjane]

I am a newbie of sorts. got a path in march 2006 that bloomed for months and months and grew a new spike that has finally dropped its last bloom. What do you do with the spikes. I cut one after blooming back below where it had bloomed with a razor blade and it bloomed again. The other spike dried and turned yellow. I have read about repotting, and other info but have not seen how or what you need to do with the spikes. Please help. I now have three plants and just love them. "want to do the right thing". LJ

[orchid_girl]

thanks for the info everyone....my question same as lacyjane

[chefatplay]

Me, too, everyone. I have three all of a sudden and one in bud. The other two have bloomed already and I was told won't again until the spring. I am keeping them wetter than the phals. Does the skewer method work on these, too? Mine are planted in fine bark with perlite and charcoal. Is watering two times a week enough? I'm so excited about these. I know Kevin is extremely knowlegable about these. Other are too. I am anxious for more detailed info, thanks in advance.

[kmarch]

Correct me if I'm wrong but there seems ot be some confusion here between Paphs and Phals (maybe we should split this into two different threads).

lacyjane if you cut your spike back and it rebloomed you don't have a Paph you have a Phal. Paphs won't re-bloom off a previously bloomed spike.

After your Phal blooms you can either cut the spike off at the base or just above one of the nodes. Some folks prefer the first option because the plant then directs its energies to growing a stronger plant and roots in preperation for the next season's flowering. Phals can be repotted after blooming, which is when I repot mine. But I only have a few Phals and so some others who grow lots of them might have some better tips than I.

Chef, based on what you said in the other thread, you have Paphs correct? Paphs like to be kept evenly and gently moist, never soggy, never dry. Although I do not use it, I thik the skewer method could be useful with Paphs to ensure they are kept gently moist.

Watering frequency depends so much on the mix the plant is in (how many moisture retentive components you have in it, how big the pieces - small, medium or large bark) and other conditions like humidity, heat, air circulation, etc., etc., so I am hesitant to say things like "Water twice a week." My advice is to water as often as you need ot to keep the mix evenly moist.

It sounds like you are using a dry mix which will require more frequent watering. If the mix pieces are large, consider repotting (after blooming) into a smaller size mix so there is more contact with and therefore more moisture is held at the roots.

Let me know if you have other questions.

[chefatplay]

Kevin, I do have paphs, the three I just bought. Today I'm going to repot the two that have bloomed already. I will get some pics so you can help me more specifically. I really appreciate it. The medium I'm repotting to is
seeding orchid mix. Fine with perlite and charcoal. I'm going to soak it first in worm tea. I'll get back, like I said, with pictures later.

[19419n]

it should also be noted that on some phals you should not cut the spike due to the fact that these will continue to bloom from this spike year after year. and there are phals that will bloom more than once a year

[kmarch]

Excellent point 19419n. I forget this sometimes. It's good to remind us.

[Sassismom]

I have a mottled leaf paph, it is potted in what looks like only sphagnum moss, is this good or should I repot in something else? It has new growth, but has not bloomed this year yet.

[myorchid]

If it is working well for you keep it as is. I find that the sphag stays too wet for my Paphs and Phals. I put the Paphs in a fine bark mix and the Phals in coir mix.

Are the roots healthy?

[Catcym]

I bought a green leaf paph two weeks ago. Today I took it out of pot and found white mold on some of fine barks. I gently washed off and repotted in same container with new fine bark. The new bark was so dry I soaked and soaked and let water drained away.
I hoped it is OK the plant is in flower with a second bud

[Sassismom]

I haven't looked at the roots, but I guess maybe I should, shouldn't I? I have another paph that is in a bark. Is it the wrong time to repot paphs.?

[kmarch]

Like other orchids, the best time to repot paphs is after they bloom. This gets tricky though because they should be repotted (if only to put in fresh mix in the same size pot) every year but they will not necessarly flower every year. I like to repot unflowered paphs in the spring.

[Sassismom]

Kevin does that mean I shouldn't repot at this time?

[kmarch]

If it has been more than a year, then do repot. Paphs must have fresh mix.

[Sassismom]

Thanks, will do then.

[Catcym]

It is very sad that my paph dropped a flower. The "shoe" was shriveled two days ago.
However the remaining bud is getting big.

[janice]

I thouht this forum was a place to ask questions..............I guess I will just defer to books from here on out.

[NicC]

I am really disappointed with the whole tone of this thread. I agree to asking questions to get a feel how others do thing in real life rather than the textbooks which frequently disagree with each other or obviously copy each other.
The tone of this interchange struck me as being "cranky" for lack of a better word. I have not noticed this on this site before and hope it does not get to be a habit.
Nick

[11Orchid126]

I agree with NicC. I must also apologize to missann for getting lectured for posting a question here. Keep posting your questions, missann. There are many people here who are not cranky and will genuinely try to answer them.

[Jerry Delaney]

My, my!!!!!! Isn't it amazing what the lack of our "daily orchid fix" for a few days can do to one's demeanor!!!

[articuno75]

I don't know what happened. This thread was locked and my original post has been deleted, so I'll do this again.


Let me clarify....


Missann is asking questions that can be easily looked up. She has this information in several of her books and has also made a thread about how information can't be found anywhere except for books called "The Stuff They Don't Tell You Is In A Book". So why ask questions that are so common you can find it in a book or on the net? This information is in Ortho's All About Orchids. I know, I have the book and highly recommend it. I also recommend Orchids For Dummies (Dummies was my First )


Despite this, Orchidmentia and Brookn still gave references to the questions. (Thank you both!).

Jerry Meola even went futher and described her plant as to say that it will not flower for 2-3 years.

Now JLu. God love you, I don't know what your deal is but the attacks are going to stop....NOW. Obviously you misread the posts completely. It was KMarch that said he doesn't follow the rest stage and not Jerry.

You have been warned for the final time. Do I need to repost the rules again for you?


I can understand the short temperedness here when you post such a thread and then contradict yourself with wanting help, on a really common species.


I beg. This is a really great forum. The best that I've ever seen. This is a place to learn and share our attributes and passion for our orchids. I don't want to lose that integrity.

I had this thread locked. I guess that when the site crashed the lock disappeared along with the other posts in other threads. I'll keep it open only if we can "play nice".

Missann~ If you need help with any of your plants, ask questions. If you have doubts about any, give me a PM.

[Ellen]

I find it interesting that people on this forum jump all over Misssann when she asks a question about a Brassavola species, but run eagerly to the rescue of anyone who has some petty problem, real or imaginary, with their box-store hybrid phal.

On a different note, it's my experience that Jerry's estimate of 2-3 years to bloom is very much on the conservative side. B nodosa is a fast grower and blooms when quite young provided it gets enough light. Your plant could be as little as 1 year away from blooming, given ideal conditions. Moreover, different cultivars have different leaf sizes, so just measuring the plant isn't a very good indication of how old it is. We are all assuming it is a seedling, but for all we know it could be a division with some stunted growths.

[iddawg5143]

I have never been able to grow phal's. I get one and give it a try again this time in the kitchen window.
Should I still water very 4 to 5 days.
Thanks for the info.
iddawg5143

[articuno75]

Hi Iddawg5143

If you can update you user profile, this will help the members when giving advice. Different locations = different advice.

My suggestion would be get a Phal and get on this forum. We will walk you through it and help you out.

[YardMeat]

I Love This Forum!

[sarahplo]

Two quick questions:
1) Do paphs drop their old leaves like phals?
2) What should a healthy paph root look like?
I expected the roots to look green or more like phal roots. I have some that look not so good which are brown but not mushy, and I have some that look healthy and new and are pink and light yellow.

[Ron]

Hi Sarah.
Phallie growing and Paph growing are ,in my humble opinion are two different worlds.
Phallies tends to grow as an ongrowing plant. ie it can branch and produce a clumping effect but generally always growing upwards on the same stem produceing new roots after every new leaf growth. (Bit hard to explain with out the photos and description)
Paphiopedilums (Paphs) tend to produce new side growths from the original plant.
The original plant usually dies after flowering, over a period of a year or so, but hopefully not before it produces new side growths or stolens which will eventually form there own new root system.
For what Paphs roots are suppose to look like visit :
< http://ladyslipper.com/paphrts.htm>.
a wonderful site full of growing info.
Phalles tend to need a lot more heat then Paphs

Cheerio
Ron

[kmarch]

You bring up an important point Ron: Paphs are sympodials (like a cattleya or dendrobium) while Phals are monopodials (like a vanda or Neofinetia). I'll float the idea to Fred about giving them separate culture sheets.

Originally Posted by sarahplo

Two quick questions:
1) Do paphs drop their old leaves like phals?

While a Paph may occasionally loose the bottom leaf off a growth, they do not grow like phals, that being continuously as a monopodial. They will only grow so many leaves on a growth then a new one will start. Eventually the entire old growth will die off.

Originally Posted by sarahplo

2) What should a healthy paph root look like?
I expected the roots to look green or more like phal roots.

Paph roots will not look like phal roots. Paph roots will be brown and fuzzy. Take a look at the pics Ron linked too.

[sarahplo]

Thank you so much Ron and Kmarch. Both posts were very helpful! The picture of the roots is great!
Although those roots are a bit more plump they are generally what mine look like. I currently have a new growth off of my large fan. So on the whole I guess I did not do too bad a job snatching this one up.
If I were to have another new growth, would each produce a spike?
It looks like I am moving into the decline period for the large fan, would you say I should fertlize now?
I have a warm growing mottled leaf paph. I have been using a shultz 20-20-20 mix weakly weekly on my other orchids, but have been thinking of trying worm tea.

[risa59]

Having read some of the summer postings, I'm a bit nervous about asking a question that might seem petty.
Question 1: What is the life expectancy of the main Paph? I didn't realize that the main fan dies.
Question 2: I have a pretty nice size mottled paph purchased 4 months ago. It just finished blooming (it had three great blooming spikes). It is a Supersuk Eureka X Raisin. It has three (remaining) side leaves off the main large fan that appear to be very "loose" (they easily move up and down)
There were two or three more leaves on this side part before they turned yellow and then brown. These side leaves don't appear to have their own roots and are attached lightly to the main fan. Should I remove them from the main fan before they all die ? But without roots I don't see how they could survive potting on their own.
From the above discussion, I realize that I don't really know enough about Paph to know what to do! Thanks for the Paph help.

[kmarch]

Originally Posted by risa59

Having read some of the summer postings, I'm a bit nervous about asking a question that might seem petty.

No need to worry risa, the geeks are always glad to help. The flap a few months ago was not about asking simple questions, it was about receiving info, not reading it, and turning right around and asking more questions about what they hadn't read (in short not using the info members kindly provided). but all that's in the past now.

Originally Posted by risa59

Question 1: What is the life expectancy of the main Paph? I didn't realize that the main fan dies.

Depending on the species (or hybrid as the case may be) and the culture, the old growths can last years. I have old wardii and Crossianum growths that have hung around for 2-3+ years and counting. Some species prone to clumping, like Paph insigne can hang on to their old growths for 5+ years.

Originally Posted by risa59

Question 2: ... These side leaves don't appear to have their own roots and are attached lightly to the main fan. Should I remove them from the main fan before they all die ?

No, don't remove them. I never remove any healthy living leaves or tissue from my orchids. I can't tell from your description if they are good leaves on an old growth or new growths, ultimately it does not matter. If they're good and alive, let them be. The new growths will not have roots at the start but will grow them eventually. Paphs grow a little slower than other orchids. It sounds like you're doing fine so far. Get a good paph culture sheet and follow it. Let us know if you have more questions.

[CulpableCaptive]

Since no one is going to ask, I have to.
I don't have any idea what you are talking about.
Can someone please tell me what a "Phalenonopis" and a "Phalaenonopsis" are?

I also don't know what "Phallies" and "Phalles" are???

There are a lot of words being used in this thread I have never seen before.

Also, what is a "box-store hybrid"?

I just woke up and this thread has confused me so much I am going somewhere else for the time being.

___________________________________

“It is pleasant at times to play the madman.” – Seneca (5 BC – 65 AD)

[vcuchick]

More Phal Questions-

I have a small 6-7" non-blooming phal that needs some TLC:

I had a damaged leaf about 2 months ago and an orchid grower for the Smithsonian recommended cutting the leaf below the damage and dusting with cinnamon to prevent fungus.

Now I have another leaf nearest the center core of the plant that is turning white/translucent and the spot is spreading... Also, an older leaf is beginning to yellow from the base of the plant towards the tip.

Any ideas on what might be wrong?

I repotted this orchid back in January with coco husks.

[elmira]

Yellowing leaves at the base of the plant can just be the normal process of older leaves dying off.

But if it is coming from the center of the plant it sounds like a fungal problem. It could have been caused by getting water in between the leaves, in the crown. You can use a cotton swab to gently swab this out.

I've also read of phal orchid leaves turning white because of heat damage. Is it possible the sun was too direct, or your home got too hot toward the end of the winter? In that case the plant will recover on its own if you prevent this from happening again.
_
Also, I think you should go ahead and check the roots before the next watering for signs of being over-wet. It can't hurt. Then you can reduce watering if need be.

Otherwise perhaps someone can suggest a more serious treatment for infection.

[Deby53]

Thanks for the info. I just got back from a greenhouse with a paph. Haven't tried this type before so I was a little nervous about it's care. My other orchids are growing happily outside here in central Illinois. It's going to be 95 today so I'll leave my new prize inside until it cools off in a few days and it can join the others outside.

[poozcard]

thank you

[hillarykat]

I have been wondering what to do with the spike after the blooms drop, thanks for clarifying kmarch!

[Overgrown]

Thanks for the info!