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| Dendrobium Culture notes
Dendrobium is a diverse genus of orchids with different cultural needs. Many go through a growth phase and a rest phase during the course of one year, and must be given water and temperature to match these growth and rest periods. Flowers can last one day to many weeks, depending on the type. Light: Strong light is important, especially when growth is maturing. Give bright light; some sun. In the home; an east, shaded south, or west window. In the greenhouse, 25% to 50% full sun. Less light is needed when plants are resting. Temperature: Temperature needs vary widely. It is best to follow the plants' natural requirements. Provide night temperatures of 45 to 60 degrees; and days of 65 to 95 degrees. Water: When plants are growing, water just when becoming dry. Some types need severe drying while resting. Mist in home in the morning if air is dry. A humidity of 40% to 60% is optimum. Fertilizer: Must be provided on a regular basis since potting media have little. In active plant growth, apply 30-10-10 at recommended rates. Reduce fertilizer when growth is completed. A bloom booster may encourage flowering. More frequent fertilizing is good under high temperature and light conditions. |
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cabbo (03-07-2010) | ||
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It's really tough to give general cultural requirements since Dens vary to such extreemes. It might be worth considering having a few Den culture threads. I'd like to see one specifically for the very commonly found hybrid types specifically the antelope-phal-type hybrids that you can get at any DIY store. Then perhaps another on the soft-cane or nobile-type, perhaps others as well.
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For Dendrobiums, I highly recommend the culture sheets created by Baker & Baker. And by far the best and cheapest way to get them for Dendrobiums, about a thousand different species, is to buy their book on Dendrobiums. I bought mine from an internet used book dealer. You should be able to get the book used for about $60. It is large format (~8.5" x 11") and is a good 2" thick. http://www.orchidculture.com/ The climate table alone is worth the price of the sheet. Check out their free sheets to see what they typically contain.
__________________ Cynthia Prescott Orchid Society |
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I found a great culture sheet from White Oak Orchids for the different types of dens. http://whiteoakorchids.com/Dendcultsht7-06_best_A.pdf |
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Are the keikei's still on the mother plant or have you potted them up? Keikeis are small, so they wont need alot of moisture. If you've got them potted up, just make sure there in some light bark/orchid compost mix. Keep them fairly tightly potted, and water as the medium gets very dry, every couple of weeks. |
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Happy Growing!
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Unfortunately, they are not attached to the mother. I have removed them from the mother and placed in moss because they almost have no roots. Because of that I'm afraid that they won't survive winter... I thought to bring them in to the house and let them grow without dormant period so they can make more roots and new shots.
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Looking at the White Oak Culture sheet, I don't think cuthbertsonii and laevifolium should be put into the same temp range. They are only about 5 F different in temps according to Baker, but I think it it that extra 5 degree difference that makes cuthbersonii difficult to grow. I am growing laevifolium in intermediate conditions quite successfully. Hmmm, I did a double take on canaliculatum too. I have this high and dry right now. Seems Baker's notes would indicate some very dry rest for it. Warm and pretty dry.
__________________ Cynthia Prescott Orchid Society |
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rwilliams: After the flowers are done, you may cut off the flower spike itself, but not the cane it grew from. Even if the canes have no leaves, they will provide energy to your den.
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Depending on the species, leafless canes can also produce additional spikes in the future. Plus I personally think its the leafless canes that really intrigue me and give them character.
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krpot (03-13-2010) | ||
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you are right bkim, these leafless canes usually give some keikis and flower spikes. because sometimes if the last cane produces a new keiki and unfortunately it died, these older canes will be the next to bear this new keikis... it happens to me once because one time our place was flooded and i was not able to have my dends evacuated from the flood (!!!!) after a couple of days i see that the new keikis are on the process of rotting but after a couple of weeks, new keikis are coming from the old canes....
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It-s summer here and my nobile-type dendrobium is growing new growths. I know that now I should increase watering, but I don't know should I still let it dry between waterings? How do you water your nobile dens in summer? Summer here can be very hot and warm. Now summer is starting so temps are around 25-30 degree Celsius.... |
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Hi guys, Newbie here and would like to know several things. I have two dendrobiums in bloom and they are exposed to full sunlight from morning to 1 p.m. 1.So far good but will the same cane flower again after it dries up? 2.How often should i water it? 3.The small keikis (if i'm not mistaken) is emerging from the mothercane and is there any special treatment for it? 4.And also should i mist it's leaves everyday? 5.What are the things i should do for the plant to flower again? |
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| Den type ID guide
From time to time members ask how they can tell what kind of dendrobium they have. Here's a little somethign I've written up to help answer that question: The most common types of dendrobium are: phalaenopsis-type dendrobium (or phal-type for short), antelope dendrobium, and nobile-type dendrobium. There are others, but these are the 3 most commonly grown in the US. If you live in Australia, all three of these will be out done by Australian native dendrobiums. Personally I believe the easiest way to differentiate between the types is with pictures, so here you go: Phalaenopsis-type This type gets its name because the hybrids are made using species from the Phalaenanthe Section of the genus. The plants can be large or small, the canes when mature have leaves on only about the upper 1/2 to 2/3 of the cane. Flower spikes appear mostly from the top of the cane. This type of den is used in the cut flower trade and the vast majority of cut-flower dendrobiums will be this type. Here are a couple pics of a fairly typical plant: http://www.orchidboard.com/community...s-pict0115.jpg http://www.orchidcare.com/DendrobiumWithInsert.jpg and a random selection of phal-type dendrobium flowers: http://orchidcaretips.imagine123.com...ndrobium-1.jpg http://www.clownalleyorchids.com/Den...sis%20alba.jpg http://www.orchidweb.com/images/DendAsortB.jpg http://www.dannesdjur.com/bilder/den...alaenopsis.jpg http://www.orchidspecies.com/orphotd...liamsianum.jpg http://mw2.google.com/mw-panoramio/p...um/5394870.jpg D.+bigibum.JPG (image) http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/i...dendrobium.jpg http://floridawildlifepictures.com/o...aya_minis1.jpg http://www.mylifetime.com/files/imag...dendrobium.jpg This type of phal is extensively hybridized so the diversity of the flowers is incredible. Antelope Type This type gets its name from the petals of the species which stand up and twist, resembling an antelope's horn. They are not easy to tell apart form the phal-types when not in flower, especially since there has been a lot fo breeding of phal-types with antelope types producing hybrids like Dendrobium Easter Bunny. Generally though many have slightly smaller leaves than the phal-type, more slender canes, and leaves up and down most of the length of the cane. They flower from approximately the upper 1/4 of the cane. Here is a random selection of antelope-type flowers: http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1438/...49e43b.jpg?v=0 http://www.orchidspecies.com/orphotd...bicaudatum.jpg http://www.dalatrose.com/forum/image...6200623812.jpg http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/a...sianthera2.jpg http://lh5.ggpht.com/orchiddoug/RwW2...+Orchid)-5.JPG Nobile Type Nobile type hybrids are so named because they contain the species Den nobile. This type is easy to identify in flower because it will have many flowers on very short stems up and down the length of the cane. When not in flower they are distinct form the previously described types in that their canes are quite a bit fatter, especially in the middle and thinner at the base and end. They have leaves nearly the entire length of the cane. Nobile type dens are deciduous and usually one or 2 years after it is a mature a cane will loose all of its leaves so it is not uncommon to see bare canes on this type of den. It's perfectly normal and expected. Also, many nobile type canes have a slitly zig-zag appearance as if each leaf is pulling the cane slightly out of being perfectly straight. Returning to the flowers, they are generally very showy and often frilly. In this pic you can see the flowers coming along nearly the fulllength of the cane: http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...007pb/den2.jpg and here are some more pics of nobile-type den flowers: http://image52.webshots.com/52/9/85/...0DhNlBr_fs.jpg http://www.kamuelagreenhouse.com/images/oth_02.jpg http://www.orchidweb.com/images/DenNobCare.jpg http://www.kamonorchids.com/images/den/14.jpg http://www.nhbirdsnest.com/images_or...n0046_2005.jpg http://www.parramattaorchidsociety.o...mallDowan2.jpg http://www.parramattaorchidsociety.o...kiLouanne1.jpg
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Ok so I think my den is a Phal type or possibly nobile, few questions, 1) one of the leaves is turning real yellow, was one of the reasons I decided to save it. Is it cool to remove the leaf of should I wait till it dries out on it's own? 2) It's currently in bloom will removing the leaf impact growth? 3) There are three canes with a fourth small node growing in the bottom appears to be a new cane, any experience with this? The roots seem fairly happy and in good condition! Since it's blooming should I increase watering or is every 7 days a good gage, the room stays a constant 65% humidity and 60 - 65 at nite up to 70 during day? Thanks for your thoughts! Much appreciated! |
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Ok, so here's a silly newbie question...how does one tell if the den. is in active growth or resting cycles? I have one that's currently blooming- blooms every year in March and the blooms last for weeks! How do I know when to add fertilizer to the water or just water? |
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I just recently got a blooming nobile dendrobium (yamamoto) and i need help! One of the leave has died and some of the other leaves are getting yellow and one of them has black spots, the den is still in bloom what am i doing wrong? What do i do? They pretty much get light from morning till about 1pm. am i exposing it to too much light? not watering enough? what do i do about the leaves? HELP!
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I'm SO sad! I thought if a Den lost it's leaves I was doing something VERY wrong!! I've since learned how to water (or NOT water) and hope to have better luck in the future... However, I am trying to save my last plant. I believe it's a Phal type Den, I cut the "smooshy" part off of the top of the cane, and it's about 4-5 inches tall in a 4 inch terra cotta pot. (only bark, no moss) how should I best care for it? if I do everything right, when should I hope to see new growth? I know it needs high light, but how warm should I keep it? |
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You should see new growth in the spring. Intermediate temps.
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I have 2 dendrobiums that I bought not too long ago. I think they are the antelope-type because the flower has those upward-twisting petals that you talk about, and the lip is thick and kind of hairy. The flowers are light green on one, and on the other one hey are more brown/yellowish. So, the flower spikes have already died off. should I cut them off? Can I care for them the same way I do my Phals? I let the medium dry out between waterings, right now I am doing every 2 days because the temps are running about 30C. And I use a weak mixture of fertilizer once a week. Thank you!! |
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Get yourself good culture sheets on both dens and phals. Go to AOS | Members Only Area or look n the orchid care section of this forum. Read the culture sheets and let us know if you have any questions.
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Thanks for the post Kmarch! I let my Phals dry out between waterings because that's what I have read many times in this blog. I try to keep moist aliflor in a tray underneath my plants so the air will be humid for them but I do let the medium in their pots dry out a bit between waterings and so far I have had good results. Thank you again!! |
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Ok, well drying out "a bit" and letting it "dry out" are two different things. It's find to let a phal dry out a bit so as not to stay soggy, the mix in the center fo the pot will likely still be a bit damp. What you want to avoid is letting the phal dry out completely like you would for a cattleya.
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