Masdevallia Culture notes

[fred]

Masdevallia, a genus of some 350 species usually from cool, misty mountains of the New World tropics, is known for its showy flowers with sepals striking in their size, shape, and/or color. Their need for a cool, damp environment makes them an excellent choice for cool coastal climates.
Temperatures should be cool to intermediate; plants will grow slowly and eventually expire if temperatures remain high for long periods of time. Cool evenings help reduce heat stress during the day. Nights of 50 to 55 degrees F are ideal; day temperatures should be 60 to 75 degrees. Evaporative cooling pads or humidifiers are useful in maintaining these conditions.

Light levels for this group usually are thought of as fairly low; however, some successful growers believe that the best flowerings are produced under higher light levels. Plants can be grown, but not necessarily flowered, in the same light levels as those for ferns--400 to 1000 foot-candles. Most growers maintain levels adequate for Phalaenopsis and Paphiopedilum--1000 to 1500 foot-candles. Masdevallias can be kept in light intensities up to 2500 foot-candles if the growing area can be kept cool. Plants grow well under four-tube fluorescent fixtures and can be summered outside in the shade.

Water is critical for these plants because they have minimal water storage tissue. Roots should be allowed to become just dry before watering again; if drainage is adequate, constantly moist roots are fine.

Humidty is important for these plants. The ideal range is 60 to 80%. In the home, mist the plants (in the morning only) and set the plants on trays of gravel, partially filled with water. In the greenhouse or enclosed growing area humidity can be increased by misting or wetting down the floors, while evaporative coolers help raise humidity and lower temperature. If plants are summered outdoors, automatic misters under the benches are recommended

Fertilizer should be applied regularly while plants are actively growing. Applications of 30-10-10 type formulations twice a month are ideal for plants in a bark-based medium. A 20-20-20 type formulation should be used for plants in other media. If weather is dull, applications once a month are sufficient. Some growers use a high phosphorus, 10-30-20 type formulation ("bloom booster") as plants approach flowering.

Potting is best done in the winter or early spring, before the heat of summer and/or as new roots are produced. Plants must be repotted frequently, every one or two years, to keep the potting mix from decomposing. A fine-grade potting medium, such as fine fir bark or tree fern fiber, is often used with plastic pots. Sphagnum is also used, especially for establishing plants. The bottom third or quarter of the pot should be filled with drainage material, either broken crock, rocks, or Styrofoam "peanuts." The plant should be positioned in the pot so that the newest growth is farthest from the edge of the pot, allowing the maximum number of new growths without crowding the pot. Plants growing in many directions may be positioned in the center of the pot. Spread the roots over a cone of potting medium and fill in around the roots with potting medium to the junction of the roots and the plant. Firm the medium around the roots by applying pressure. Keep humidity high and the potting medium slightly dry until new roots form. A vitamin B-1 compound may help establish newly potted plants.

OVER-VIEW
Masdevallias are best grown under cool to intermediate conditions in the greenhouse or home. Most species and hybrids are compact enough that they can be easily accommodated on window sills or under lights. The well-draining potting medium should not be allowed to dry out completely.
Light: Flowering is best under bright light; window sills or fluorescent light conditions are sufficient. Give bright light, but not direct sun. In the home: an east or shaded, south window; or under artificial lights

Temperature: Avoid daytime temperatures higher than 80 degrees F. Give nights of 50 to 55 degrees F; days of 60 to 75 degrees F. Increase air circulation and humidity on hot summer days

Water: Give adequate moisture year round to maintain a relatively moist potting medium. Let the roots become just dry before watering. Mist in home in the morning. A humidity of 60 to 80% is desirable. Do not let water stand on leaves overnight

Fertilizer: Must be provided on a regular basis, about every other week. Give 30-10-10 for bark mix formulations and 20-20-20 for other potting media. Concentration should be half of what the label recommends.

[SwTLaDYy16]

I should have read this before buying my Masd. on a whim....it's dead now =( Oh well, I'll try again, when I'm ready for it. Thanks for the culture notes!

[jbigio]

Thanks Fred I just got 4 new ones about two weeks ago.
Masdevallia Floribunda x strobelii
Masdevallia Maui Jewle Hybrid
Masdevallia Tala Sca (orange vir)
Masdevallia Charisma
and they through a Maxillaria tenuifolia in for free!
Problem is every time I get a new kind of orchid I WANT MORE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Your post should be helpful I have two that are on their second bloom as well

Happy New year
Joe

[Tobi]

Fred,
Great post mate! I'm sure this will be very helpful to those members who either have or
are interested in growing Masdevallias.

[exasperatus2002]

Would they be a good candidate for hydro systems?

[tom499]

One thing I would add maybe would be their need for good air movement.

Despite loving good humidity and cool temps, without good air movement they will rot very fast.

[bellina9]

I've recently become very interest in masdes. I've read this other places but can always use a refresher Thanks!

[kmarch]

Fred,

I'm not sure about the part that says to let the roots become just dry before watering. I've always heard/read they must be constantly moist, never allowed to become dry. I grow mine this way.

What do folks think?

Also yes definitely lots and lots of air movement, especially when the temps inch up.

[fred]

I think that should be almost dry
I grow mine mostly moist I do however let them dry out for a short time in winter

yeah I agree with the Air movement I have a fan going 24/7 so they get good air movement.
on the hot days I also hose the floor in the orchid house

[kmarch]

Originally Posted by fred

I think that should be almost dry

Almost dry? Wow....That sounds too dry to me. Of course you do live in a reasonably cool part of the world...and almost dry doesn't mean dry. Also I suppose "almost dry" might mean something different to me than it does to you.

Interesting.

I grow mine in sphag and if I let them get any drier than what I'd call "wet" their leaves start withering at the tips. Maybe in your cooler conditions they can get drier without any problems?

[fred]

I guess that the best part of Tassie Kevin
I grow all my Masdevallia in sphag just on another note what I also do with this weather is I sit all my Masd in pot plant saucers always sitting in Rain water as our weather gets cooler I then go to watering by hand and only let them soak for a short time on average once a fortnight.

with Tassie in winter there is alot of moister in the air that helps also

[Bolero]

I must admit I almost let mine dry, I have even let them dry completely a couple of times but I try and avoid that if I can. I prefer them to be just moist and then water again. In winter the sphagnum never seems to dry out so I rarely water them when potted in sphagnum anyway. The ones I have in coconut I water more regularly.

I would agree that the best flowering comes from higher light levels, especially during winter where I reduce the shade. They seem to flower much better after lots of light during winter anyway, I only use 50% shade in the outdoors.

Great post Fred.

[exasperatus2002]

Originally Posted by kmarch

Almost dry? Wow....That sounds too dry to me. Of course you do live in a reasonably cool part of the world...and almost dry doesn't mean dry. Also I suppose "almost dry" might mean something different to me than it does to you.

It would also depend on your climate. In Australia, I would assume you have a naturally low humidity level where in other parts of the world, the humidity levels are higher. I think this would affect ones perspective of what almost dry is. "dry but humid" might be better then "dry & not humid". Im not sure how else to say it. Sorry if it doesnt read well. Sounds good in my head.

[jbigio]

I grow my plants as per parksides instrutions which is keep moist at all times with LOTS of air movment.

[MSPProductions]

For those Masdevallia growers in seasonal climates, how do they do in temps well into the 40's F?

[Bolero]

Do you mean 40's as a minimum or maximum?

Here it gets into the 30's as a minimum and they grow fine, in fact they thrive during that time of the year.

[clarita]

There are some species that grow at near 80ºF day and 55 nights. There are others that grow under cooler conditions 40ºF being the night temp. I've never found humidity to be that critical. I summer them outside where humidity is variable. I think light (2000-2500 fc's) may be the key to that sucess

[MSPProductions]

OK, You've all convinced me! I went out an purchased another Masdevallia.

It's a rather tall one compared to the ones I've seen in the stores in the past.
It is also in, what I think, is rock.

One thing is for sure, I can't do any worse than the last time I tried.

[MSPProductions]

Ah, here are a couple of snapss