What did I do?

[Mira-Claude]

Hello everyone,
recently I acquiered a Pot. Egyptian Queen 'Black Diamond'. And as usual I bought because it's pretty and hey! we have some surviving and thriving cattleyas. So why not!

And then I decided, after paying the high price, to do some research. And Yaoutch! She is very picky. I've been told by somebody who owns 3 Pot. Egyptian Queens that they should be treated like weak cattleya bicolor. Somebody can help me as to not make a mistake?

PS: One of the thing she said was : ABSOLUTELY do not repot her if you are not in spring and the new roots are not 1 to 2 inches. Said she killed one like that...

GLUP!

[pikkumyy]

sorry mira i can't help you with this one but hopefully someone else can
goodluck

[otis 226]

Not familiar with that one, but if its one of the more picky ones, the advice you got sounds like its correct. I have a C. walkeriana, and it can be a bit 'fussy' as well. It likes to be kept on the dry side, even for a catt, and seems to do better in a clay pot that is very shallow, (even more so than most bulb pan type pots). It'd probably do well mounted, but don't think I want to do that, at least not for a while yet.
I wish you good luck with your new gal, and hopefully someone will be along soon with a bit more useful info.
Best,
Tony

[Mira-Claude]

Here is the history of the Pot. Egyptian Queen 'Black Diamond'
She was first registered in 1984 by Steward Inc. after she won her first award.
Her parents are Rhyncholaeliocattleya Ester Costa and Cattleya bicolor. The mix is absolutely gorgeous and she got the attention of many. And many tried again and again to reproduce the result of such a beautiful plant. Only no one managed. Some think that she is an anomaly, so how can one make the same anomaly twice?
Therefore all of the 'Black Diamond' alive nowadays are copies of copies of the original which weakens the plants and as both her parents are fussy, it makes a fussy weakened plant.
Why did I chose her then? Because I didn't knew that... and now I want to learn as much as possible not to kill her!
Can someone help me?
She is said to like the treatment of Cattleya bicolor best, pushed to an extreme.

[Greybeard]

Mira, sounds like you got yourself a toughy You already know tons more than I do about her so until you get more help I would go with what you have and wait until some of the more experienced Geeks can chime in Good luck with her and I hope she works out for you Can't wait to see pics

[Dendian]

Hi,

I don't have this plant... but I looked it up on Orchid Wiz to see if there was anything they say that could help you.

This is what they say: (per Charles Baker, Orchid Culture -- Charles and Margaret Baker)
Light - Rlc. Egyptian Queen is composed of species of which 91% take high light, 3% take medium light and 3% take direct sun light. Grow this hybrid in bright indirect light conditions.

Temperatures - Rlc. Egyptian Queen is composed of species of which 94% take intermediate temperatures, 90% take cool temperatures and 5% take hot temperatures. Grow this hybrid in cool to intermediate conditions, or 58°F to 75°F at night.

Water/Medium/Feeding - 50%-60% humidity. Mature plants MUST dry out between waterings. Grow in a pot with a porous, free-draining media. Fertilize weekly, weakly (one quarter to half the normal dose). Common media: fir bark, tree-fern fiber, expanded clay, lava rock, charcoal or a combination. Baker culture does say they do well mounted - but must have high humidity and will need to be watered two or three times a day when its warm.

I do find it interesting that Wiz has C. Lembera (one of it's ancestors) with "unknown" parentage

So, from what I can see - you must allow it to dry out all the way - probably very prone to root rot. It also likes humidity. Since it is a weakened strain .. then maybe you just have to be very exact with this one.

Baker Bicolor information says strong air movement, 2500-3500 FC, They don't like over 85 (summer) or under 65 (winter) but have a definate day-night temperature drop. Water is heavy during late spring to autumn.. but decreased during late autumn after the new growths mature. However - plants should not stay dry for long as they receive heavy mists during the winter.

Ah hah - here is the information your friend gave you. It seems if repotted at any other time than when new root growth has started they may sulk and die like most bifoliate species.

I hope this helps - it sounds like its a fussy bi-foliate Catt... Good luck with it!

[Dendian]

I have been thinking about this and talking with Lisa - and I think I would wait until I see new root growth and put it in a clay pot with clay pellets - that way it would dry out quickly and have lots of air to the roots - and never need to be repotted until it outgrows the pot... Not S/H though - just regular drainage.

[Filb]

Sorry to hijack the thread with this comment, but what makes a Cattleya bifoliate? Is it just that two leaves come out of the pseudobulb instead of one (I thought they all did that)..?

I really wish you luck with this one; sounds like a handful!

[Dendian]

Yes, when they have two leaves out of the top (and not all do), and their psuedo bulbs are usually thinner and longer.

Some unifoliate (one leaf) Catts will occasionally grow two (I have a silly C. walkeriana doing that right now) and sometimes the bifoliates will grow only one leaf (I have a Gur. bowringana right next to it with one leaf - and a sheath).... so you can't always tell