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Simple answer.. all being well, next fall. Phals generally only spike in the fall. When they sell them in bloom the plant has been forced into blooming out of season. The ones I bought last year as they were leaving bloom I'm watching like a hawk for spikes. The ones I bought recently.. I'm just feeding and caring for so they can recover from this years bloom.
__________________ "In all things of nature there is something of the marvelous." --Aristotle |
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not necessarily. some phals are dedicated spring bloomers, some are dedicated summer bloomers. it all depends on the plant's genetics, which when you have a hybrid can get long and convoluted. long story short, i really can't tell you when to expect new spikes on your plant, since i still haven't figured out my own
__________________ There's a Paph. sitting behind me, its little mouth gaping. I think it's trying to say, "FEED ME, SEYMOUR"..... |
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Thankyou for the help...i think i will let this 1 do it's thing where is it..it's doing great so i willnot push it and wait and see. I have another question that is probaly very silly, but here goes...does it matter how many hrs the temp is 55-60 F/night?... I live in canada and it cools off too quickly i am leaving my 1's that i am trying to spike in a bedroom with window open, but can only do it for a couple hrs every night before it gets too cold and i have to close the window. Sorry for these silly questions but this is my first time trying to get my phals to spike. I picked only the strongest of the bunch that i have to try this..Thankyou for any imput!
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Hi, Mattryann. I looked up Tying Shin Saul in Orchidwiz to see what its parentage was, and couldn't find it there. So I'm very sorry I can't answer your question about when it may bloom again based on ancestry. However, this summary might help you some: Phals with the large, thin-textured, tissuey flowers in white, pink or stripes on tallish spikes tend to set spikes in fall. This is a fairly definite rule because these phals have a heavy percent of ancestry in species phals with a definite seasonal tendency. They are stimulated to bloom by the cool/long nights or cool/short days of Fall. Among the yellows, those with the biggest blooms with tissuey flowers also tend to have a fall-spiking season. These are called "Standards". Phals with waxy flowers in yellow, oranges or magenta; harlequins with smaller, waxier flowers, and those phals with shortish spikes tend to be summer bloomers or at least to not require the fall season to stimulate spiking. These have a heavy ancestry of summer bloomers. The spike usually has fewer flowers on it than Standards produce, as well as the shorter spike and at least slightly smaller flowers. Actually, I find these setting spikes more or less on a continual basis, a new spike forming while they are still in bloom. These are called "Novelties". Multi-floras, with lots and lots of flowers can set spikes nearly any time. Mine mostly set spike in fall to about January as I recall. So it will depend on what your TS Saul actually looks like what type it is. For the rest, just concentrate on growing your phals as well as you possibly can. With new leaf and new roots, it sounds like you are already doing well at this. For more blooming, more frequently, if you can increase the light level for your phals this tends to stimulate spiking in any phal that is ready and able to do it. Last edited by mehitabel; 09-10-2010 at 09:02 PM. |
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I keep my unbloomed phals outside in summer and for a month or so in fall, but I have many blooming phals that set spikes in their sunny windows all thru fall and on into about April or May. There is some academic research that indicates that it is coolish *days* (days under 75F) that trigger spiking in Standards. But definitely, increasing the light makes a big difference as well. I find that happens more or less naturally for phals in a window-- as the sun goes lower in the sky it stays in the window longer, and the phals get a longer period of sun than they do in high summer. So give them the best sunny window you have, grow them as well as you can, and they'll do their thing when they're ready. Good luck. I hope you'll post about it when you start to see spikes! |
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| I checked the RHS database. No orchid has yet been registered with this name. There are LOTS of Tying Shin ________ phals, 67 to be exact, but no Tying Shin Saul. It's possible the registration is pending. It' also possible that Tying Shin Saul is just a made up name that's been slapped on. Given how many registrations this breeder has though, I'm guessing it's pending.
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Thanks everyone you've been extremely helpful in more ways than you know!..It is a bummer that my 1 and only named phal is a dud lol...but i love all of them |
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When you say "low temps at night," How low are you talking about?
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| finally can post pic
Here's a pic of my tying shin saul. Maybe someone recognises(sp) it. It has since grown and new leaf and some roots...but lost 2 blooms..but hey i haven't killed it thanks again everyone!
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| low temps
Sorry i didn't see last post 60 F that's what i've read...since i am completely new to this i figure that should be low enough and if nothing happens maybe they aren't ready this yr and i will try increasing light and try 60 F again and hope n pray ![]() Thanks again!
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Sorry to clog up this post thankyou mehitabel i was reading a post that you did awhile ago and it helped me alot my tying shin saul is a waxy phal it also goes along the lines that you posted up there. Having all noids except this 1 it helps to determine when i should attempt to try for a spike. I know with being noids you can never tell exactly, but this helps alot! I would really like to get a spike on 1 of my phals before i attempt to jump in with an expensive orchid and besides my hubby thinks i can't get a spike (actually he's surprised i haven't killed more than just the 1 so far lol)...so when (if) it happens i will be as excited as when i had my 2 boys lol. Thanks again everyone |
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| Phals are intermediate to warm growers so you probably wouldnt' want it to get much below about 55-60 or so. 60F should be good. What you want is a diurnal temp of about 10-15F. A diurnal temperature is the difference between the daytime high and the night time low. So you're looking for a day-night temp difference of about 10-15F while keeping the night temp above about 55-60F.
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Thankyou Kmarch i will keep them no lower than 60F and hope for something. Thankyou soo much for looking up my phal for me you have been most helpful. Everyone has been so helpful and kind..with probably very dumb questions on my part, many thanks again!
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no such thing as dumb questions on here. everyone was new to this hobby once. believe me, i've asked my fair share of ridiculous questions on here (lol ask kmarch, he had to answer most of them for me). but that's how you learn! never be afraid to ask questions.
__________________ There's a Paph. sitting behind me, its little mouth gaping. I think it's trying to say, "FEED ME, SEYMOUR"..... |
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