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Hi all - I'm a brand new member of the site, although I've been reading the forums for a while. So, I have 3 Phals, one about a year old, one about 5 months old and one really new (Pinky purple, pure white and orange speckly). I recently had a problem of my phals going all wrinkly in the leaves (despite what I thought was good watering practice), but reading someone's tips on this forum, I was brave enough to pull them out of the pots they came in and have a good look at the roots. Both plants had quite a few hollow and rotten roots which I cut away and the medium in the middle of the pot was bone dry! I realised that my watering only sprinkled water across the top and down the sides of the pot and the plants were incredibly dried out! So, as an emergency rescue mission I totally soaked both plants for a few days and the leaves bobbed straight back up and got firm and solid again. Since then, both plants have been throwing out healthy aerial roots and new leaves I have a couple of questions (as a person pretty new to this art of orchid growing): 1. What is a good fertiliser to use on orchids? When I got the second orchid, i bought a couple of 'orchid food' tubes that stand upside down in the pot and gradually dispense the light blue fluid into the orchid soil. I've not used these for a while though - what is this stuff? Is is any good? 2. When do you know when an orchid needs repotting? 3. What is the difference between potting media? Two of my orchids came in pots with what looks like bark chips and one is mounted on a sort of mossy heather type stuff. 4. Is it true that It's best to keep orchids out in their clear plastic pot, rather than the ceramic decorative pot they often come in? Why? 5. I've read that orchids shouldn't stand in water, but is there any harm in keeping the bottom of their pot standing in a little water in the bottom of the tray? Since the watering problems I had I now keep my orchids out in their clear trays sitting in a little water to enable a more uniform soak-up of moisture into the medium. Is this a good idea or not? The orchids seem much happier with this system! 6. is aerial roots a good thing? I've been reading the repotting forum which mentions that you should put all aerial roots inside the new pot when repotting. I have a little water mister which I spray a little water onto the aerial roots nearly every day to try to keep them moist and most like their natural environment. Lots of questions! Sorry about that, but I'm keen to learn a bit more about what other people find works for them. I live in Oxford in the UK, so my orchids live indoors in a centrally heated university room, so I'm constantly battling with temperature and humidity. I really liked someone's pictures of their outdoor orchid garden (Florida I think?) - you could never get away with that in the UK! (I think?) Thanks! |
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1- There are many fertilizers out thre in the market today, and some work great, and some may do harm on your 'chids. I use Better Gro fertilizers, 1 because they are convenient and located at all the big box stores, and also, it was recommended to me. There are specific fertilizers for each orchid, but I've read that they can take houseplant food also. 2-Ways to tell is an orchid needs repotting- The medium is broekn down, and it is hard for the water to flow out of the drainage holes. When the medium is broken down like this, it would just be like you are planting your orchid in dirt, which is a big NO NO. They need air, so repot when the medium becomes too borken down and not allowing enough air for the roots. Bark mediums usually go for about two years, while sphag goes for one year Also, when it is too overcrowded. A pot should accomodate the root system on an orchid snuggly, with a little room for maybe about one year's growth. 3- There is a huge difference in potting mediums. In dry conditions, or if you are too busy to keep up with watering, I would advise you to use the ''mossy stuff''. This product is called Sphagnum moss. It retains moisture longer than other mediums, which is a good and bad thing. If is the number one cause to rot, due to the high moisture retentiveness. Careful not to overwater! Bark is a more safe way to grow orchids. They grow out of bark naturally anyways. They allow water to roam freely, and retains mosisture, yet it lets air in. It is safer than moss because you can overwater less. There is also coco husk and coir and other things like LECCA, which I am not familular with, so another geek should come along and help you with that. 4-It isn't necessarily true to keep your orchid in the plastic pot it came in. Most pots that orchids come in are the regular green/brick colored/black pots. There allow no air to come in, and just standard pots for other plants, not orchids. If your plastic pot had air cone, and slits on the side, then yes. If the pot was made specifically for orchids, it would be wise to use that pot. Ceramic pots should only be used for decoration in my opinion. If you want a more decorative look, try using the terra-cotta orchid pots. These are the ones with holes on the side of the pot. They look great, are inexpensive, and orchids love em. Ceramic pots allow for no air to come in, and just like the plastic pots, they aren't suited for orchids. Then there is mounting, which looks natural, but require igh humidity and watering. It is a harder task to care for mounted orchids rather than potted. Mounting should only be done if you want to take the challange and don't have enough bench space. 5- Orchids MUST NEVER sit in water. This will cause root rot. The method you are thinking of is called S/H or Semi-Hydroponics. This is a method in which there is a resevoir on the bottom and the LECCA pellets wicker up the water to the roots. I am not really familular with this method. But orchids should never sit in water. But it is a good idea to put them over water. Get a pan or dish, and will with pebbles or other things, then add water and then the potted orchid. This allows added humidity. Make sure the water doesn't touch the bottom of the pot. 6-Air roots are a good thing. Orchids produce roots everywhere, and when they produce air roots, they are happy in the condition they are in. They are hard to maintain if you live in a low humidity area, so keep them humid, and like you are doing- spray em if they get dry. |
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First of all welcome to the forum! As for fertilizing, to be honest any good balanced (ie 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 etc) fertilizer will be good, as long as it contains micronutrients as well. And as long as you use the correct amount. To better understand fertilizers, I suggest you go to Orchid Growing Supplies Semi-hydroponics Hydroponics Orchid Books PrimeAgra click on the free info button and read the articles he has on fertilizing. They are very very good. An orchid needs repotting either when it has totally overgrown it's pot to the detriment of the orchid, or when the potting mix has broken down. It's hard to give an exact time, as it so depends on your growing conditions. But rule of thumb is 1 yr for spaghnum moss, and 2 years for bark - as long as you use good quality potting media. If you don't then the time is much much less. Potting media - probably the most heated topic amoung orchid growers lol There are as many spag haters as there are bark haters. Basically it comes down to you and your growing conditions, and good quality material, and your watering practices. I've personally used bark, spaghnum moss, CHC, coconut coir, LECA over the years, and I think I have finally found what works the best for me, but that does not mean it would work the best for you. But the most important thing is the quality of the material. Pretty much if you find it in a garden center, it's not the best quality - at least that is what I've found. As for clear plastic pots, I use them. yes for the big ones I drill holes in the sides, but for 4 inches or less, I don't. As for the decorative container, nothing wrong with it, as long as you remove the inside pot out to water the plant, and drain it before you put it back inside the decorative one, as standing water - especially with a bark mix is not good. But it does restrict air movement, which will cause the pot to stay wet longer, and if it stays wet too long, that's how you get root rot. I would not leave the pot in the standing water. I would water the pot thoroughly when it is time to do so, if you are unsure about how well you are watering, then soak it for 30 min or so, and then drain. This will make sure the media is completely wetted, but during the draining, the extra water will be removed. While you have seen an improvement in the short term with them sitting in water, I do think you will have problems over the long term. Aerial roots - yes some plants do this. Not a problem. A lot of people like to try and guide them down to grow into the media. Also, we have a few members from England that are regulars on here, they should be able to give you more tips that will help you with your conditions. Good luck!
__________________ Renee "I carefully described to Huxley the shooting out of the pollinia in Catasetum, and received for an answer, 'Do you really think I can believe all that?'" - Darwin, 1868 Last edited by rcb; 04-12-2010 at 06:56 PM. |
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I am not familiar with this "orchid tube" you refer to. People are always experimenting with new things and coming up with new products. Maybe you could give the "food tube" a try and report your results here. There are several different approaches to fertilizing. Some do not fertilize at all. I don't. I was going t start a fertilizer regimen this summer but then never got to it. Others fertilize "weakly weekly." In other words they use a weak fertilizer every week. Still others use a more detailed regimen that follows the growing and flowering cycle of the plant. They might use a high nitrogen fert in spring/summer when the plant is in growth mode and switch to a bloom boost in autumn in preperation for spikes (note bloom boosts do not induce flowering, they only support the flowering cycle when it comes around), then they might not use any at all during the plant's rest period. Everyone has their preferred approach. Again different orchids have different needs. Some orchids need repotting once a year. I'd put phals in this category. Other orchids like cattleyas can go about every other year and some orchids, like many of my coelogyne, resent repotting and sulk if repotted. These are the kinds of questions you'd find answered, complete with pictures, in any good beginning orchid book. I strongly recommend you go out and buy a copy of Ortho's All About Orchids. It's the best beginner's orchid book I've seen. There's a whole section on potting and potting mixes, the different kinds and what they do. The book is cheap too, only about $11-12. There are probably about a dozen different potting mixes, both organic and inorganic. Each one has different properties, holds different amounts of water, etc. The mix you use depends on the needs of your particular kind of orchid. Does it need to drain fast? Dry out between waterings? Stay moist? Quote:
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All roots are always a good thing. Quote:
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| The Following User Says Thank You to kmarch For This Useful Post: | ||
Ladyofthelakes (04-12-2010) | ||
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Oh sorry for my unclearity, I was referring to Phals when I said that they should not sit if water. I have read also people who grow paphs in water culture...
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| Water culture is a completely different technique which is far removed form growing in a conventional mix like bark and then having the pot sit in water.
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