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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2008, 09:29 AM
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thanks for the update! I'm in S. Florida and my pods (NOID phal crosses and NOID dend crosses) seem to be maturing faster than the estimates for these types of orchids. I'm assuming climate/temp makes a difference?
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Old 07-07-2008, 11:17 AM
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Temperatures do from my understanding make a difference in maturation speeds. It takes longer indoors then in a greenhouse.
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Old 07-07-2008, 05:19 PM
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Well it definitely FEELs like a greenhouse here in So. FL! In fact all the phals have moved inside (for several months now) due to the heat. High humidity too!!

I just ordered a tissue culture kit and hope to be sowing some seeds soon!! The only thing I'm not feeling to confident about is a glove box (sterile box?)
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Old 07-07-2008, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodlekitty View Post
Well it definitely FEELs like a greenhouse here in So. FL! In fact all the phals have moved inside (for several months now) due to the heat. High humidity too!!

I just ordered a tissue culture kit and hope to be sowing some seeds soon!! The only thing I'm not feeling to confident about is a glove box (sterile box?)
just make sure you sterilize EVERYTHING inside and out & dont forget to clean the gloves too. You'll be alright. Its not like your working with ebola or some alien parasite heck bent on infesting the planet.
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Old 07-07-2008, 11:04 PM
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Thanks!! I guess I should post a question about the glove box thing....don't want to "highjack" your thread or anything.

So do you plan to send your pod off to the lab "green" or are you going to send dry seed?
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Old 07-08-2008, 09:34 AM
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Probably dry. This is what the lab Im going with says:

First, don't be too hasty to harvest your pod. Our best
success with bifoliate Cattleyas (skinneri and other
Guarianthe species) has been with pods that were five and a
half to nine months post-pollination. In our experience,
the whole Laeliinae tribe seems to develop their embryos
last. If the pod is picked too early, we get lots of empty
testas (seed coats) that don't germinate. If you are afraid
of waiting too long, we can flask seed from a split pod, as
long as it is stored in a dry place. I would recommend that
the pod stay on the plant at least 8 months, but cultural
conditions (where you live, is the plant grown on a
windowsill or in a greenhouse, etc...) can affect maturation
times.

Most Cattleya types are fairly fertile, and produce lots of
viable seed. Some of the modern hybrids have chromosomal
abnormalities, and may only produce a few seedlings. Of
course, it is possible that no viable seed will be produced,
but this would be unusual for this type of cross.

Last edited by exasperatus2002; 07-08-2008 at 09:44 AM.
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2008, 01:31 PM
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Very helpful info! I'll check the website. Thanks!
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Old 07-08-2008, 03:22 PM
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I'm really glad some people bumped this thread! I hadn't come across it before. I just finished reading through, and it's quite fascinating! Thank you for documenting I patiently await the next update.
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Old 07-08-2008, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowballsarebad View Post
I'm really glad some people bumped this thread! I hadn't come across it before. I just finished reading through, and it's quite fascinating! Thank you for documenting I patiently await the next update.
Your welcome.
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Old 07-08-2008, 04:30 PM
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Here's hoping this thread hangs around for another 2 - 3 years so we can follow the progress of all your hard work.
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Old 07-14-2008, 06:44 PM
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do you get all the seedlings the pod produces, or does the company keep some?

this is truly amazing, good luck!
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Old 07-14-2008, 10:54 PM
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According to their website all seedlings produced from your pods remain your property. All seedlings produced in excess of your order shall be destroyed.

Im still milling around the idea of possibly getting 3 flasks instead of 2 if theres enough to do 3.
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Old 07-15-2008, 02:23 AM
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I've found companies that will keep your excess, and companies that destroy the extras. I'm still narrowing down the 3 companies that I'm going to use.
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Old 07-15-2008, 08:49 AM
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Patticake, since my intention is to register the cross and name it after my daughter, I'd prefer them to destroy my extras. I wouldnt want to have someone bloom it first and then register it/name it before I get to. This is also why Im torn on the # of flasks. The more I have the better chance a diamond in the ruff will pop out.
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Old 07-15-2008, 10:59 AM
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I was thinking how sad it was to destroy the extras, but I understand why someone would want to now. how are the little babies doing?

Does the um.. society you go through to name a cross let you know it someone else has already applied for that cross? And, there is no problem with using a name over again?

sorry for so many questions this is all very new to me.
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Old 07-15-2008, 11:41 AM
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From my understanding (if Im wrong someone pls correct me), if you remake someones hybrid, you can add your 'tag' to the name to distinguish yours from the original. ex. Blc. Toshie Aoki 'Carmela'
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Old 07-15-2008, 06:35 PM
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I think the name in apostrophes is the name given to a specific plant from the cross. If there are several different seedlings, the name is given to a certain one to distinguish it from the rest of the group. I think they use this for cloning. I may be way off... It wouldn't be the first time!

Has someone else already done your cross?

I think it works that you name all the seedlings say, Cassandra- If one of the seedlings is outstanding, It could be Cassandra "Daddy's girl"

Since I don't know about this, I sure hope Kevin or one of the more knowledgeable geeks will straighten us out!
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Old 07-15-2008, 09:58 PM
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To date, there is nothing registered of my project, Blc. (or whatever it is this month) Chia Lin 'New City' AM/AOS x Guaranthe aurantiaca. Now wheres one of them super mods to help straighten us up?
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Old 07-15-2008, 10:55 PM
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Wow that is truly amazing.
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Old 07-16-2008, 05:40 AM
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Patticake has the naming about right.

Whenever you cross two plants the registration is A x B = your name
This would be *****.Cassandra. It does not matter if later someone crosses B x A it still is ******.Cassandra

The ***** is because I have no idea what the new family name will be. OrchidWiz still lists Chia Lin as a BLC. It would probably change only if it has purpurata in its family tree. I did not see purpurata but there are over 100 plants in the family tree of Chia LIn. OrchidWiz is pretty good about listing all names including the new families. They may not be totally up to date yet.

Even with OrchidWiz it will take all day to look at all the parents. They do not fit on a computer screen and it takes about 40 screen displays to see them.

The varietal name in apostrophes is to distinguish a specific plant. It is always done when a plant is awarded and is used only on clones of that specific plant. There is no restriction that it be reserved for awarded plants and there are a lot of color variety names that mean nothing.

I do not think that you have much to fear of someone crossing these plants before you can register it. Chia Lin has been developed for size and color. It is the parent of 30 crosses but all except one (Ctna Why Not) were crossed with large 5-7 inch flowers. For commercial reasons, I would not want to develop a smaller plant by crossing with Guaranthe aurantiaca.

Guessing, since that is all you do when developing a cross, the Guaranthe aurantiaca should shift the color to more orange and possibly make the cross a smaller plant and smaller flowers. Chia Lin has been crossed with large orange flowers and has a lot of yellow and orange in its family tree. The plant is reasonable small (12-16) inches for a plant that carries a 7 inch flower.

Commercially we would try to cross to develop one characteristic missing from the original plant. Personally I think Chia Lin is one of the most perfect crosses made. I have not see many of its 30 new crosses for sale. Many are made to have a new 'name' to sell and the variety dies out over time from lack of interest.

But crossing is like playing the tables in Los Vages, occasionally you win big. I am rooting for you
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2008, 07:13 AM
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I di think that the clonal name was given after an award, since I remember Arlene saying that they asked her to give her plant a clonal name when she was awarded, but I have seen so many plants with a clonal name but no letters afterwards, such as AM/AOS, that I thought maybe I was wrong about that. Obviously, someone just didn't put the letters after the clonal name on the tag.

Now if I have a ****Cassandra, and I take it to a show, and it's given an award, they would ask ME to name the clonal name, correct? That is, whoever grows and shows the plant gives it the clonal name if it's awarded? The hybridizer gives the grex name. (and also the clonal name if he/she shows a certain one and it's awarded) example ******Cassandra 'Patti's Pick'

Thanks, Jerry! By George, I think I've got it!!!!!
Thanks to you exasperatus, for asking this... It really cleared things up for me!
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Old 07-16-2008, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exasperatus2002 View Post
I agree with your findings. It looks like a typo on your tag to me. Even the lowes site says Blc. Chia Lin 'Shin Shu'

heres what yours should look like-

http://www.lowesorchids.com/images/B...20Shu'.jpg
First of all, please, please, please don't use Lowe's as an authority on orchid names.

The unknown "LIN" could be Chia Lin. It could also be Mei Lin, Lina, Lin Yu-Inn, Linz, Lin Phelps, Choy Lin, and I probably missed a few. I sorted through 2400 records.
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Old 07-16-2008, 09:51 AM
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You guys are making me work tooooooo hard on this one. May I politely suggest that anyone interested in these sorts of breeding and naming issues start learning about them and doing so not form Google searches, or Lowe's website, but from reliable, reputable sources like the RHS (which is the agency responsible for registering hybrids) as well as the International Code of Botanical Nomenclature (ICBN) for species names, and the International Code of Nomenclature for Cultivated Plants (ICNCP) for hybrid names. The buck stops with the RHS, the ICBN, and the ICNCP so they're reliable.

If you don't want to to do that, then re-read my orchidgeeks thread on Orchid Nomenclature. Many of the mistakes and misunderstandings I'm about to correct are discussed there and have been discussed repeatedly all over this forum.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Annette View Post
Does the um.. society you go through to name a cross let you know it someone else has already applied for that cross?
That 'society' is the RHS (Royal Horticultural Society) and they will turn down your application to name a cross if someone else has registered the cross.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Annette View Post
And, there is no problem with using a name over again?
No, there is a BIG problem with using the same name over and over again which iswhy it is not allowed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by exasperatus2002 View Post
From my understanding (if Im wrong someone pls correct me), if you remake someones hybrid, you can add your 'tag' to the name to distinguish yours from the original. ex. Blc. Toshie Aoki 'Carmela'
This is incorrect. You may not add your own 'tag' or anythign to the name. Once a grex is registered, every remake of that cross, regardless of who remakes it and when, carries the exact same grex. Exasperatus, if youare referring ot the 'Carmela' part of the name you have cited above, you've heard me say on this forum about a thousand times that that name in single quotation marks is a cultivar epithet, given to a plant when the plant is awarded. See my Orchid Nomenclature thread for a more detailed explanation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by patticake View Post
I think the name in apostrophes is the name given to a specific plant from the cross. If there are several different seedlings, the name is given to a certain one to distinguish it from the rest of the group. I think they use this for cloning.
Patticake basically has it right. It's important to note however that any cultivar ephitet that is not registered is not binding.

Quote:
Originally Posted by exasperatus2002 View Post
Blc. (or whatever it is this month) Chia Lin 'New City' AM/AOS x Guaranthe aurantiaca.
The correct intergeneric name for your orchid is: Rhynchosophrocattleya Chia Lin 'New City' AM/AOS. The intergeneric name for your new cross, which is: Rhyncolaelia x Cattleya x Sophronites x Guaranthe, is Thwaitesara. This intergeneric name and its components had appeared in a thread I started back in March: http://www.orchidgeeks.com/forum/orc...e-orchids.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrymeola View Post
There is no restriction that it be reserved for awarded plants
But it is traditional that only awarded plants receive a cultivar name and cultivar names not given as a result of an award are not binding and could be dropped by another grower or changed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrymeola View Post
Chia Lin has been developed for size and color. It is the parent of 30 crosses but all except one (Ctna Why Not) were crossed with large 5-7 inch flowers.
Chia Lin is not one of the parents in Guaritonia Why Not (Guaranthe aurantiaca x Broughtonia sanguinea)

------------

It is now bedtime for Bonzo.
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Old 07-16-2008, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patticake View Post
Now if I have a ****Cassandra, and I take it to a show, and it's given an award, they would ask ME to name the clonal name, correct?
That's correct!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by patticake View Post
That is, whoever grows and shows the plant gives it the clonal name if it's awarded? The hybridizer gives the grex name. (and also the clonal name if he/she shows a certain one and it's awarded) example ******Cassandra 'Patti's Pick'
Good going patti. This is also correct. Of course both you and exasperatus could show a Thwaitsara Cassandra and if they were both awarded you would both give then (different) cultivar names, for example 'Patti's Pick' for yours and 'Daddy's Little Girl' for exasperatus'.
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Old 07-16-2008, 02:12 PM
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Thank you !! Heres a link if anyone wants to trace their chids family history.

Royal Horticultural Society - Plants: The International Orchid Register
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Old 07-16-2008, 02:59 PM
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Kevin you miss read my statement.

========================

Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrymeola
Chia Lin has been developed for size and color. It is the parent of 30 crosses but all except one (Ctna Why Not) were crossed with large 5-7 inch flowers.

Chia Lin is not one of the parents in Guaritonia Why Not (Guaranthe aurantiaca x Broughtonia sanguinea)

===================

I was stating that it had been used as the parent in about 30 crosses and the cross with Ctna Why Not was the only one I found where the grower used a small flower, Ctna Why Not, in the cross.

Blc Chia Lin 'New City' AM/AOS x Ctna Why Not ====
Otr Village Chief Why - until the families are changed
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2008, 04:20 PM
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Did some research on the rhs site, Rsc. Chia Lin 'New City' AM/AOS has been busy. It has been used in 63 hybrids so far (use chia lin in both seed & pollen spaces and you get different lists).
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Old 07-16-2008, 08:17 PM
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Oh my!! I'll say Chia Lin HAS been busy! What a great learning experience this has been for all of us! Thanks-Kevin & Jerry for the help. I'm looking forward to the baby chids down the road.
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Old 07-16-2008, 09:26 PM
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Oh my!! I'll say Chia Lin HAS been busy! What a great learning experience this has been for all of us! Thanks-Kevin & Jerry for the help. I'm looking forward to the baby chids down the road.
I agree, they have been a big help.
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Old 07-16-2008, 10:49 PM
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Kevin you miss read my statement.
Yes, I did. Thanks for the clarification.

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Originally Posted by exasperatus2002 View Post
...Rsc. Chia Lin 'New City' AM/AOS has been busy. It has been used in 63 hybrids so far...
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Originally Posted by patticake View Post
Oh my!! I'll say Chia Lin HAS been busy!
Busy yes, but in the orchid world 63 offspring is a somewhat modest output. Condsider:
Guaritonia Why Not, used as a parent in 108 registered hybrids
Sophrocattleya Drumbeat (formerly Laeliocattleya Drumbeat) used as a parent 161 times
Rhyncholaeliocattleya Mount Hood used 165 times, and
Cattlianthe Chocolate Drop (formerly Cattleya Chocolate Drop) used in 234 registered hybrids

And that's just a few in the Cattleya Alliance

Paph Winston Churchill has been used as a parent in 538 crosses!

Now THATS busy!
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  #106 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2008, 04:37 AM
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Kevin, Stop! Me thinks I shall swoon! ( This is all getting so exciting for me.) That's why I'm up at 4:30 A.M. when I should be sleeping! Lol!
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Old 08-09-2008, 09:17 PM
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How's that pod doing? Did it pop?
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Old 08-14-2008, 10:29 PM
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The pod is still green and going strong.
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Old 08-23-2008, 08:04 PM
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One of my capsules is turning yellow... Is yours still green?
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Old 08-23-2008, 09:39 PM
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Sounds like yours is beating me to the punch. Im still green. Which is frustrating as I'd like to send it out soon. It doesnt mean much since it can do with as much as parentage as it does conditions, to make it dehisce. Better wrap it up now in a coffee filter before it pops and you loose the seed all over. Any pics??
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Old 08-23-2008, 09:52 PM
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Old 08-26-2008, 10:56 PM
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Update.....Day 186 and still going green. I am jelous, Patticake is shipping hers off to the flaskers and I still have to sit on my hands watching the paint dry, so to speak. So I took the tape measure and took a few pics for everyone after I did my daily inspection. Now what was that about a watched kettle?? lol

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  #113 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2008, 04:02 AM
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Wow! Mine are about as long as yours is wide!! That's a pretty sight! Good luck with it. Don't rush it...The wait will be worth it. The pictures that I've seen are really cool of the different sizes and shapes these capsules take on.
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Old 08-27-2008, 11:02 PM
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Neat. It looks so nice and plump. How long are you going to wait? Until it turns yellow or until it opens?
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Old 09-16-2008, 09:59 PM
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Day 206 and its still green and no changes yet. It's like the energizer bunny....still going...and going.... Wonder if thats the norm from the Guaranthe aurantiaca, since its the pod parent.
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Old 09-17-2008, 04:28 AM
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I've read 7-9 mos. on a cross like yours. Keep your eye on it at 7! Good luck!!! Does your flasker want the seed in the capsule, or out?
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Old 09-17-2008, 01:39 PM
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This was their reply when I had asked how they wanted the capsule.

Since you are in PA, it doesn't matter to us how you ship the pod to us (FL clients we request green pods due to the high temps and humidity) - just be sure to put the pod or seed in a paper envelope, seal the envelope, and tape around all the edges and seams to seed doesn't escape during shipping. We ask that green pods be packed this way as well, as sometimes they break open in shipping. Then put the envelope in a box to ship if it's a green pod or in another envelope if it's seed. If the pod is split open and seed shakes out, it would be easier/cheaper to put the seed in an envelope to ship. Hope this helps. We look forward to working with you.

I will be waiting until is starts to change color before it splits to send it. I dont want to cut it green and run the risk of doing it to early so its not mature enough to sprout but at the same time sending it dry seed can be a pain for flaskers because they'd have to take the extra step to sterize the seed before flasking. But mostly, Im doing for fear I clip it to early and it doesnt sprout because of me & not that it wasnt fertile.
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  #118 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2008, 06:04 PM
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As long as they don't mind seed out of pod, I would definitely wait for the capsule to ripen. This is how one explained it to me: (Meyers Conservatory)
Our preference is for the capsules to mature on the plant, keep a close eye on them and when they just start to split, harvest the caps rather than to remove green capsules early. "Greencapping" is a common practice, with the primary reason for doing it being that the unopened caps will have uncontaminated seed inside, but unfortunately that isn't always true. Just because the cap is closed does NOT mean that the contents haven't been exposed to bacteria or fungus that has penetrated the plant tissue. So, the best practice in the lab is to disinfect even green seed, but if the seed is too young it will be harmed by the disinfecting process. Also, green seed is reported to pass on virus to the offspring, while mature, dry seed does not. Virus may not be killed by disinfection. Also, unless prepared properly and shipped and used immediately a greencap can spoil. Additionally, a greencap must all be sown at once, leaving no opportunity to hold back and seed in case a second attempt is needed.

There are some species that need to be greencapped because mature seed is difficult to germinate. In these cases greencapping may be essential for success, and, in our opinion, greencapping is best only used in these cases.
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  #119 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2008, 08:59 PM
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Thanks. Sometimes I have a habit of over thinking things due to inexperience which is why Im grateful to have a place to watch & learn.
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Old 09-17-2008, 09:03 PM
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We're learning together here! I had no clue on the flasking process until a few months ago. It's so cool, isn't it?
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Old 10-09-2008, 11:06 PM
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Thanks a lot exas.That was a wonderful job.It is for the first time Im seeing something like this.It is really informative.
I cant wait to see the baby plants....
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Old 10-10-2008, 08:47 AM
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Your welcome Rashid, Im a visual person and seeing how things are done is better then reading it. SO I figured I'd document it all to share.

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Old 10-22-2008, 09:41 PM
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Just an update its now 8 months and 2 days (276 days) and I'm still waiting on it to dehisc. Its nice and green with no changes yet. I had to double check the email from the flasker Im using and he does say;

First, don't be too hasty to harvest your pod. Our best
success with bifoliate Cattleyas (skinneri and other
Guarianthe species) has been with pods that were five and a
half to nine months post-pollination. In our experience,
the whole Laeliinae tribe seems to develop their embryos
last. If the pod is picked too early, we get lots of empty
testas (seed coats) that don't germinate.


So Im sitting back down on my hands now and am (cough) patiently waiting.
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  #124 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2008, 09:47 PM
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Yowza!! Do as they say... I waited until my capsules were turning, and there were no embryos. Even if I had waited longer, there probably wouldn't have been any... Wait until they say to send them, and then,.... good luck!! My prayers will be with you!!!
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:22 PM
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Wow you are on patient fellow Scott. My phal pods shriveled up maybe the longer it ripens the more seed? Hopefully!
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:22 PM
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We're still watching with you and waiting with baited breath for that capsule to ripen. I've told friends how long this takes and they were amazed.
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Old 10-22-2008, 11:30 PM
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If my Brassia Rex would have spiked this year I'd be working on another hybrid but since I made a division & also moved to a new house, it hasnt done anything yet. Wonder what it'd look like Brassia Rex x Brsda Orange Delight 'Starbek Orange'.
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Old 10-23-2008, 01:58 AM
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Old 10-23-2008, 02:14 AM
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We are all hoping and crossing our fingers it's going to turn out great. Can't wait for the update when you finally decide it's time. Very exciting.
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Old 11-18-2008, 10:44 AM
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Thursday it'll be 9 months since we started this adventure. Im like a papa waiting on his wife to pop. The wait is so looonngggggggggg........
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Old 11-18-2008, 07:51 PM
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patticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of light
It really IS like a pregnancy!! This is a great sign that all is well with this capsule!!! I'm as excited as you are!!! (well...maybe not quite as much), but I'm pretty darned excited!
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Old 11-18-2008, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exasperatus2002 View Post
Wonder what it'd look like Brassia Rex x Brsda Orange Delight 'Starbek Orange'.
I think this sounds like a GOOD possibility for a cross. Imagine fairly large spidery flowers (about half waybetween the 2 parents in size) with orange colouration. Good possibilities there.
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Old 11-21-2008, 02:20 PM
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Hii...Exas..is there any improvement..??
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Old 11-21-2008, 02:30 PM
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Nope she's now at 9 months and a day and still hasnt shown signs of dehiscing.
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Old 11-21-2008, 07:20 PM
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patticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of light
She's gonna be a fertile Myrtle!!! Every time I see this thread up, my heart jumps! Could it be time? My niece is expecting her second baby any day... It's the same thrill, I swear!
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Old 11-22-2008, 12:54 AM
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Cough, snort, What! what?!

Okay, no change.

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Old 11-22-2008, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by articuno75 View Post
Cough, snort, What! what?!

Okay, no change.


Reminds me of this girl I was going on a date with in high school I had to wait 45 minutes for her to get ready to go to a movie. The wait was worth it. Good thing her dad kept me company.
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Old 01-01-2009, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nancy View Post
Now all I've got to do is to wait the six years until it blooms. .
seriously? 6 years? wow. i bought some babies in 2 inch pots, about 4 in. tall from hawaii and they told me 2-3 years until blooming time..... how large is a seedling?
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Old 01-01-2009, 04:04 PM
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When its time to deflask, they need to be atleast 3" tall.
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Old 01-01-2009, 05:30 PM
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patticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of light
No fair teasing us! I saw the post and thought...This is it! We'll keep waiting with you....
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Old 01-01-2009, 10:19 PM
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Talk about teasing Patticake? Thats what my capsule is doing. Looks good. Hasnt changed none. Still green. Im right to name it when Im able to, after my daughter because it is a tease!

Is there an age range where I should just send it in green? I realize since I grow in a windowsill it takes longer then a GH. but it's now 10 months & 12 days old. Im getting ansy and only have one shot at this cross.
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Old 01-02-2009, 06:15 AM
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patticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of lightpatticake is a glorious beacon of light
So far my track record is 0 to 0, so I haven't a clue! I would contact your flasker, and ask their advice! How cool is this? You're coming down to the wire, for sure!

BTW- is your daughter sleeping any better yet?
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  #143 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2009, 02:01 PM
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how is the pod doing ? still on the plant ?
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  #144 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2009, 02:46 PM
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The pod hasnt changed at all. Its now 11 mnths & 24 days old. You know what they say...good things come to those who wait.... and wait.....and wait........
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Old 02-11-2009, 03:09 PM
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wow..... looks like when it finallly happens..... u will already have small orchid plants inside it....
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Old 02-11-2009, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by exasperatus2002 View Post
The pod hasnt changed at all. Its now 11 mnths & 24 days old. You know what they say...good things come to those who wait.... and wait.....and wait........
Wow! Lol! I was just thinking about you today and wondering how the capsule was...This baby will sure be ripe!
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Old 03-13-2009, 07:31 PM
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this is driving me nuts.... what a long wait...four more years to see your flowers.
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Old 03-14-2009, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digitalgate View Post
this is driving me nuts.... what a long wait...four more years to see your flowers.

391 days and counting and Its still not ready. I know they say indoor grown capsules take longer then greenhouse kept but this is killling me. At this rate, by they time it dehiscs, is replated & unflasked & finally flowers, my 22 month daughter, for whom it will be named after, will be graduating college.

The orchid room is the coolest (temp wise) room in the house and was rather cool during the winter. Maybe that had something to do with the maturatation rate. Maybe I need to use a seedling heat pad with her.

Mental note, dont use the species as pod parent again.

Last edited by exasperatus2002; 03-14-2009 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 03-15-2009, 10:36 AM
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I was talking to an orchid flasking company about my capsule taking so long & heres their reply:

With aurantiaca as the capsule parent, waiting a long time is the norm. The capusles usually take 400-470 days to mature! At least you might be getting close. They really can't be rushed if you want healthy seed.
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Old 03-15-2009, 01:01 PM
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WOW! Talk about patience, you really need it with this one. Good to know it is doing what is expected. We will all be waiting to see what happens.
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