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Old 06-19-2008, 03:16 PM
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Wink Sphag N Bag for Oncidiums & Miltoniopsis

Hi! Does sphag n bag work for oncidiums and miltonopsis too?

First of all, sphag n bag only worked for 1 phal I had and I had to wait over 2 months for 2 tiny stubs to appear. My oncidium and miltoniopsis stayed the same with no roots coming out.

Is there another technique that would work for oncidiums and miltoniopsis?

Or any other solution other than sphag n bag?

Thanks everyone!!!
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Old 06-19-2008, 03:27 PM
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I have never done sphag and bag. Right now I have a Phal that was from home depot with all the roots rotted off, and it is currently growing 5 roots. That is with me soaking it about 3 times a day for 5-10 minutes each. I wasn't too bothered as to whether I lost it or not. But apparently not caring made it work

I also had a Milt from ebay that had all the roots rotted, and it was looking really really bad. I put it in a pot with aliflor, and watered it every few days, just as I water my other Milt that is doing really well, and now it has roots to the bottom of the pot. It's been about 6 months since I did that.
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Old 06-19-2008, 04:12 PM
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theres a root stimulator called k-l-n that might help

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Old 06-20-2008, 12:32 AM
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Two months is a short time for sphag & bag. I have had many take 6 months, and a few took a year. Two plants that don't usually get sphag & bag are Cymbidium backbulbs and the larger backbulbs of the Oncidium family. This is because they have lots of mass, and usually no leaves to support while you are waiting for some action, with these large bulbs buried half deep in something kept moist. If the rootless plant has leaves, you probably want to use sphag and bag, you just have to be patient.

I have not had any luck with rooting hormones on sympodials like Catts and Laelias. For some reason the stuff works very well to start new eyes, but you have to wash the stuff off pretty good if you expect the new eyes to continue on to the stage of producing roots. All the cases where I continued to add rooting hormone after the eyes started, the eye/new growth failed to produce roots but grew out far enough to break news eyes on itself before the plant expired for lack of remaining energy. Putting rooting hormone on good roots might induce them to produce side branches, but I haven't tried that.
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Old 06-20-2008, 07:06 AM
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I usually pot Oncidium alliance back bulbs one to a pot and they grow new growth to about 6-8 inches in 4 months.

I have started to use Essentials rooting hormone. It is a liquid. I use it by soaking the plants at re-potting and spraying every two weeks . Local sod farmers can get three crops a year out of their farms when using Essentials, whereas 2 crops is normal. Grass is mostly roots so it is a good indication of what is going on in the ground.

The K-L-N from Dyna grow recommended by Exasperatus, I do not understand. According to the label it is only fertilizer and vitamin B1. It seems a lot of money for a B1vitamin you could add from the medicine cabinet.

Superthrive seems to work. It does not label its ingredients but I believe it is IBA salts. If it is, the recommended application levels is much lower than generally accepted for IBA.

The advantage for me in using hormones is that it does not take the space required of spag and bag. Commercially I could not use sphag and bag. Any plant not sellable in four months has to be discarded.
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Old 06-23-2008, 12:31 PM
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Hi Psyc! What do you mean when you say you soaked it for 3 times a day for 5-10 minutes each. What do you soak it in? Do you put media around it or is it sitting bare in a pot all the time unless you are soaking it?

How long did it take before you saw results with your phal? Thanks!
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Old 11-29-2008, 11:26 AM
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Hello Everyone!
I have been looking for the original sphag and bag thread with step by step directions but have been unable to find it.
I would like to use this technique to grow roots on a vanda keiki and to stimulate new roots on my paph.
If anyone has it saved to their favorites, would you please copy the link for me?
Thanks!
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Old 11-30-2008, 09:26 AM
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I found what looks like one of the original posts on the topic which explains it pretty well. Here it is for future reference.
http://www.orchidgeeks.com/forum/orc...g-and-bag.html
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