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Old 04-12-2007, 07:29 AM
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Arrow Orchid Care for Phalenonopis & Paphiopedilum Orchids

The common name for the Phalaenonopsis is the "moth orchid" as the flower petals resemble the wings of a moth. Well-grown plants can flower often, sometimes with a few flowers throughout the year, though the main season is late winer into spring. Average home temperatures and conditions are usually sufficient. Flower stems on certain hybreds can be forced to rebloom by cutting the tip off after initial flowering. Only healthy plants should be induced to flower repeatedly.

LIGHT is easy to provide for phalaenopsis. They grow easily in a bright window, with little or now sun. An east window is ideal in the home; shaded south or west windows are acceptable. In overcast, northern winter climates, a full south exposure may be needed. Artificial lighting can easily be provided. Fourfluorescent tubes in one fixture supplemented by incandescent bulbs are placed 6 to 12 inches above the leaves, 12 to 16 hours a day, following natural day length. No shadow should be seen if you hold your hand one foot above a plant's leaves.

TEMPERATURES for phalaenopsis should usually be above 60° degrees F at night, and range between 75 and 85° F or more during the day. Although higher temperatures force faster vegetative growth, higher humidity and air movement must accompany higher temperatures, the recommended maximum being 90 to 95° F. Night temperatures to 55° F are desirable for several weeks in the autumn to initiate flower spikes. Fluctuating temperatures can cause bud drop on plants with buds ready to open.

WATER is especially critical for phalaenopsis. Because they have no major water-storage organs other than their leaves, they must never completely dry out. Plants should be thoroughly watered and not watered again until nearly dry. In the heat of summer in a dry climate, this may be every other day; in the winter in a cool northern greenhouse, it may be every ten days. Water only in the morning, so that the leaves dry by nightfall, to prevent rot.

HUMIDITY is important to phalaenopsis, the recommended humidity between 50 and 80 percent. In humid climated, as in greenhouses, it is imperitive that the humid air is moving. Leaves should be dry as soon as possible, always by nightfall. In the home, set the plants on trays of gravel, partially filed with water, so that the posts never sit in water.


FERTILIZE on a regular schedule, especially if the weather is warm, when the plants are most often growing. Twice a month applications of high-nitrogen fertilizer (such as 30-10-10) are appropriate where bark-based media are used. Otherwise, a balanced fertilizer is best. When flowering is desired, a high phosphorus fertilizer (such as 10-30-20) can be applied to promote blooming. Some growers apply fertilizer at one-quarter strength with every watering; this is best for warm, humid conditions. When cooler, or under overcast conditions, fertilizer should be applied twice per month at weak strength.

POTTING is done in the spring, immediately after flowering. Phalaenopsis plants msut be potted in a porous mix. Potting is usually done every one to three years. Mature plants can grow in the same container until the potting medium starts to decompose, usually in two years. Root rot occurs if plants are left in a soggy medium. Seedlings usually grow fast enough to need repotting yearly, and should be repotted in a fine-grade medium. Mature plants are potted in a medium-grade mix. To repot, remove all the old medium from the roots, trim soft, rotted roots, and spread the remaining roots over a handful of medium in the bottom of a new pot. Fill the rest of the pot with medium, working it among the roots, so that the junction of the roots and the stem is at the top of the medium.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Paphiopedilums, the lady's slipper orchids, come from south east Asia and the Asian-Pacific islands. They are semiterrestrial, growing in humus and other material on the forest floor, on cliffs in pockets of humus, and occasionally in trees. They are easy to grow at home, under lights or in the greenhouse.

These plants have flowers of heavy substance, lasting from one to three months. There are multi-flowered, sequentially flowered, and single flowered varieties of many different sizes, shapes and colors. To this day there is no accurate way to clone Paphiopedilums, making mass production difficult. Therefore the Paphiopedilum is one of the most unique and popularly collected orchids in the world. Many varieties can be grown easily indoors.

LIGHT is easier to provide for Paphiopedilums than many other types of orchids. They require shady conditions as in the hone in an east or west window, near a shaded south window, or even in a north window. In the greenhouse, shade must be provided. Give about 1000 to 1500 foot-candles. In the home fluorescent lighting is excellent; suspend two or four tubes six to twelve inches above the leaves.

TEMPERATURE for Paphiopedilums cover a considerable range. They are traditionally separated into three groups: the warm-growing mottled-leaved types, the cool-growing green-leaved types, and the warmer-growing strap-leaved multifloral Paphiopedulums.


Warm-growing types should be kept at 60 to 65° degrees F during the night and 75 to 85° degrees F or more during the day. Cool-growing types should be kept at 50 to 60° degrees F during the night and 75 to 85° degrees during the day. However, many growers raise all plants in the same temperature range with excellent results. The plants can stand night temperatures in the 40s if necessary (as when grown outside in mild climates), as well as temperatures to 95° F. Care must be taken to protect the plants from rot when cold (keep humidity low, and avoid moisture on leaves or in the crowns of the plants), and also to protct from burning when hot (shade more heavily and increase humidity and air movement around the plants).

WATER must be available at the roots constantly, because all plants in this genus have no pseudobulbs. All of these plants need a moist medium — never soggy, but never dry. Water once or twice a week depending on the medium in which they are planted and other cultural contditions such as temperature adn humidity.

HUMIDITY for paphiopedulum should be moderate, between 40% and 50%, which can be maintained in the home by setting the plants on trays of gravel, partially filled with water, so that the plants never sit in water. In a greenhouse, average humidity is sufficient. Using an evaporative cooling system in warm climates can increase the humidity. Air movement is essential, especially when humidity is high.

FERTILIZE on a regular schedule,but care must be taken to avoid burning of the fleshy, hairy roots. High-nitrogen fertilizers (such as 30-10-10) are recommended when potted in any fir-bark mix. In warm weather, some growers use half-strength applications every two weeks; others use one-quarter strength at every watering. It's important to fulsh with clear water monthly to leach excess fertilizer, which can burn the roots. In cool weather, fertilizer applications once a month are sufficient.

POTTING Paphs like fresh potting medium and are not tolerant of stale, broken down mix so annual repotting is recommended. Mixes vary tremendously; most are fine or medium-grade fir bark, with varying additives, such as perlite (sponge rock), course sand, charcoal, sphagnum moss or shreaded leaves. Moisture retention with excellent drainage is needed. Large plants can be divided by pulling or cutting the fans of the leaves apart, into clumps of three to five growths. Smaller divisions will grow, but may not flower. Before dividing, make sure each proposed division has a full set of healthy roots. Spread the roots over a small amount of medium in the bottom of the pot and fill with medium, so that the junction of roots and stems is buried 1/2 inch deep in the center of the pot. Do not overpot but select a pot just large enough to comfortably accomodate the roots.
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Old 04-16-2007, 12:43 PM
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Paphiopedilums.
Most growers with large collections of Paphs and commercial growers of Paphs recommend repotting at least every year or oftener. Paphs, it seems, are particularly intollerant of stale mix. They have relative tough roots, and can take repotting well.
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Old 04-17-2007, 09:32 PM
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This is all so appreciated. Thank you Fred and Cynthia for this info on lady slippers! I'm on a big hunt now to grab up every one I come across here in south Fla. I just love them!
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Old 06-15-2007, 11:11 AM
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Thank you so much for this. There are a few things that I'm going to do differently.
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Old 06-15-2007, 11:22 AM
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thats what we are here for

I am pleased that you found the information useful

sandy you are going on a paph hunt please keep us informed

more orchids hehehe
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Old 06-15-2007, 01:51 PM
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Thanks for the info.

Sandra please let me know if you find a good place to buy Paphs in South Florida.

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Old 07-22-2007, 11:35 AM
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Question after the blooms

I am a newbie of sorts. got a path in march 2006 that bloomed for months and months and grew a new spike that has finally dropped its last bloom. What do you do with the spikes. I cut one after blooming back below where it had bloomed with a razor blade and it bloomed again. The other spike dried and turned yellow. I have read about repotting, and other info but have not seen how or what you need to do with the spikes. Please help. I now have three plants and just love them. "want to do the right thing". LJ
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Old 08-18-2007, 03:39 PM
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thanks for the info everyone....my question same as lacyjane
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Old 08-18-2007, 06:28 PM
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Me, too, everyone. I have three all of a sudden and one in bud. The other two have bloomed already and I was told won't again until the spring. I am keeping them wetter than the phals. Does the skewer method work on these, too? Mine are planted in fine bark with perlite and charcoal. Is watering two times a week enough? I'm so excited about these. I know Kevin is extremely knowlegable about these. Other are too. I am anxious for more detailed info, thanks in advance.
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Old 08-18-2007, 11:19 PM
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Correct me if I'm wrong but there seems ot be some confusion here between Paphs and Phals (maybe we should split this into two different threads).

lacyjane if you cut your spike back and it rebloomed you don't have a Paph you have a Phal. Paphs won't re-bloom off a previously bloomed spike.

After your Phal blooms you can either cut the spike off at the base or just above one of the nodes. Some folks prefer the first option because the plant then directs its energies to growing a stronger plant and roots in preperation for the next season's flowering. Phals can be repotted after blooming, which is when I repot mine. But I only have a few Phals and so some others who grow lots of them might have some better tips than I.

Chef, based on what you said in the other thread, you have Paphs correct? Paphs like to be kept evenly and gently moist, never soggy, never dry. Although I do not use it, I thik the skewer method could be useful with Paphs to ensure they are kept gently moist.

Watering frequency depends so much on the mix the plant is in (how many moisture retentive components you have in it, how big the pieces - small, medium or large bark) and other conditions like humidity, heat, air circulation, etc., etc., so I am hesitant to say things like "Water twice a week." My advice is to water as often as you need ot to keep the mix evenly moist.

It sounds like you are using a dry mix which will require more frequent watering. If the mix pieces are large, consider repotting (after blooming) into a smaller size mix so there is more contact with and therefore more moisture is held at the roots.

Let me know if you have other questions.
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Old 08-19-2007, 08:12 AM
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Kevin, I do have paphs, the three I just bought. Today I'm going to repot the two that have bloomed already. I will get some pics so you can help me more specifically. I really appreciate it. The medium I'm repotting to is
seeding orchid mix. Fine with perlite and charcoal. I'm going to soak it first in worm tea. I'll get back, like I said, with pictures later.
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Old 08-19-2007, 09:26 AM
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it should also be noted that on some phals you should not cut the spike due to the fact that these will continue to bloom from this spike year after year. and there are phals that will bloom more than once a year
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Old 08-19-2007, 10:37 AM
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Excellent point 19419n. I forget this sometimes. It's good to remind us.
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Old 07-17-2008, 02:21 PM
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I have a mottled leaf paph, it is potted in what looks like only sphagnum moss, is this good or should I repot in something else? It has new growth, but has not bloomed this year yet.
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Old 07-17-2008, 04:17 PM
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If it is working well for you keep it as is. I find that the sphag stays too wet for my Paphs and Phals. I put the Paphs in a fine bark mix and the Phals in coir mix.

Are the roots healthy?
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Old 07-17-2008, 07:37 PM
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I bought a green leaf paph two weeks ago. Today I took it out of pot and found white mold on some of fine barks. I gently washed off and repotted in same container with new fine bark. The new bark was so dry I soaked and soaked and let water drained away.
I hoped it is OK the plant is in flower with a second bud
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Old 07-18-2008, 05:40 PM
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I haven't looked at the roots, but I guess maybe I should, shouldn't I? I have another paph that is in a bark. Is it the wrong time to repot paphs.?
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Old 07-18-2008, 11:23 PM
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Like other orchids, the best time to repot paphs is after they bloom. This gets tricky though because they should be repotted (if only to put in fresh mix in the same size pot) every year but they will not necessarly flower every year. I like to repot unflowered paphs in the spring.
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Old 07-19-2008, 10:36 AM
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Kevin does that mean I shouldn't repot at this time?
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Old 07-19-2008, 10:59 AM
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If it has been more than a year, then do repot. Paphs must have fresh mix.
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Old 07-19-2008, 11:38 AM
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Thanks, will do then.
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Old 07-31-2008, 02:15 AM
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It is very sad that my paph dropped a flower. The "shoe" was shriveled two days ago.
However the remaining bud is getting big.
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Old 08-09-2008, 09:52 PM
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I thouht this forum was a place to ask questions..............I guess I will just defer to books from here on out.
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Old 08-15-2008, 11:40 AM
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I am really disappointed with the whole tone of this thread. I agree to asking questions to get a feel how others do thing in real life rather than the textbooks which frequently disagree with each other or obviously copy each other.
The tone of this interchange struck me as being "cranky" for lack of a better word. I have not noticed this on this site before and hope it does not get to be a habit.
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Old 08-15-2008, 03:06 PM
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I agree with NicC. I must also apologize to missann for getting lectured for posting a question here. Keep posting your questions, missann. There are many people here who are not cranky and will genuinely try to answer them.

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Old 08-15-2008, 05:06 PM
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My, my!!!!!! Isn't it amazing what the lack of our "daily orchid fix" for a few days can do to one's demeanor!!!
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Old 08-16-2008, 01:52 AM
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I don't know what happened. This thread was locked and my original post has been deleted, so I'll do this again.


Let me clarify....


Missann is asking questions that can be easily looked up. She has this information in several of her books and has also made a thread about how information can't be found anywhere except for books called "The Stuff They Don't Tell You Is In A Book". So why ask questions that are so common you can find it in a book or on the net? This information is in Ortho's All About Orchids. I know, I have the book and highly recommend it. I also recommend Orchids For Dummies (Dummies was my First )


Despite this, Orchidmentia and Brookn still gave references to the questions. (Thank you both!).

Jerry Meola even went futher and described her plant as to say that it will not flower for 2-3 years.

Now JLu. God love you, I don't know what your deal is but the attacks are going to stop....NOW. Obviously you misread the posts completely. It was KMarch that said he doesn't follow the rest stage and not Jerry.

You have been warned for the final time. Do I need to repost the rules again for you?


I can understand the short temperedness here when you post such a thread and then contradict yourself with wanting help, on a really common species.


I beg. This is a really great forum. The best that I've ever seen. This is a place to learn and share our attributes and passion for our orchids. I don't want to lose that integrity.

I had this thread locked. I guess that when the site crashed the lock disappeared along with the other posts in other threads. I'll keep it open only if we can "play nice".

Missann~ If you need help with any of your plants, ask questions. If you have doubts about any, give me a PM.
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Old 08-16-2008, 07:01 PM
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I find it interesting that people on this forum jump all over Misssann when she asks a question about a Brassavola species, but run eagerly to the rescue of anyone who has some petty problem, real or imaginary, with their box-store hybrid phal.

On a different note, it's my experience that Jerry's estimate of 2-3 years to bloom is very much on the conservative side. B nodosa is a fast grower and blooms when quite young provided it gets enough light. Your plant could be as little as 1 year away from blooming, given ideal conditions. Moreover, different cultivars have different leaf sizes, so just measuring the plant isn't a very good indication of how old it is. We are all assuming it is a seedling, but for all we know it could be a division with some stunted growths.

Last edited by Ellen; 08-16-2008 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 08-16-2008, 11:59 PM
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I have never been able to grow phal's. I get one and give it a try again this time in the kitchen window.
Should I still water very 4 to 5 days.
Thanks for the info.
iddawg5143
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Old 08-17-2008, 12:44 AM
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Hi Iddawg5143

If you can update you user profile, this will help the members when giving advice. Different locations = different advice.

My suggestion would be get a Phal and get on this forum. We will walk you through it and help you out.
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Old 08-17-2008, 04:08 PM
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I Love This Forum!
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Old 12-02-2008, 09:07 PM
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Two quick questions:
1) Do paphs drop their old leaves like phals?
2) What should a healthy paph root look like?
I expected the roots to look green or more like phal roots. I have some that look not so good which are brown but not mushy, and I have some that look healthy and new and are pink and light yellow.
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Old 12-02-2008, 10:38 PM
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Hi Sarah.
Phallie growing and Paph growing are ,in my humble opinion are two different worlds.
Phallies tends to grow as an ongrowing plant. ie it can branch and produce a clumping effect but generally always growing upwards on the same stem produceing new roots after every new leaf growth. (Bit hard to explain with out the photos and description)
Paphiopedilums (Paphs) tend to produce new side growths from the original plant.
The original plant usually dies after flowering, over a period of a year or so, but hopefully not before it produces new side growths or stolens which will eventually form there own new root system.
For what Paphs roots are suppose to look like visit :
< http://ladyslipper.com/paphrts.htm>.
a wonderful site full of growing info.
Phalles tend to need a lot more heat then Paphs

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Old 12-03-2008, 12:21 AM
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You bring up an important point Ron: Paphs are sympodials (like a cattleya or dendrobium) while Phals are monopodials (like a vanda or Neofinetia). I'll float the idea to Fred about giving them separate culture sheets.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sarahplo View Post
Two quick questions:
1) Do paphs drop their old leaves like phals?
While a Paph may occasionally loose the bottom leaf off a growth, they do not grow like phals, that being continuously as a monopodial. They will only grow so many leaves on a growth then a new one will start. Eventually the entire old growth will die off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sarahplo View Post
2) What should a healthy paph root look like?
I expected the roots to look green or more like phal roots.
Paph roots will not look like phal roots. Paph roots will be brown and fuzzy. Take a look at the pics Ron linked too.
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Old 12-03-2008, 07:36 AM
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Thank you so much Ron and Kmarch. Both posts were very helpful! The picture of the roots is great!
Although those roots are a bit more plump they are generally what mine look like. I currently have a new growth off of my large fan. So on the whole I guess I did not do too bad a job snatching this one up.
If I were to have another new growth, would each produce a spike?
It looks like I am moving into the decline period for the large fan, would you say I should fertlize now?
I have a warm growing mottled leaf paph. I have been using a shultz 20-20-20 mix weakly weekly on my other orchids, but have been thinking of trying worm tea.
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Old 12-03-2008, 09:27 PM
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Having read some of the summer postings, I'm a bit nervous about asking a question that might seem petty.
Question 1: What is the life expectancy of the main Paph? I didn't realize that the main fan dies.
Question 2: I have a pretty nice size mottled paph purchased 4 months ago. It just finished blooming (it had three great blooming spikes). It is a Supersuk Eureka X Raisin. It has three (remaining) side leaves off the main large fan that appear to be very "loose" (they easily move up and down)
There were two or three more leaves on this side part before they turned yellow and then brown. These side leaves don't appear to have their own roots and are attached lightly to the main fan. Should I remove them from the main fan before they all die ? But without roots I don't see how they could survive potting on their own.
From the above discussion, I realize that I don't really know enough about Paph to know what to do! Thanks for the Paph help.

Last edited by risa59; 12-03-2008 at 09:39 PM.
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Old 12-03-2008, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by risa59 View Post
Having read some of the summer postings, I'm a bit nervous about asking a question that might seem petty.
No need to worry risa, the geeks are always glad to help. The flap a few months ago was not about asking simple questions, it was about receiving info, not reading it, and turning right around and asking more questions about what they hadn't read (in short not using the info members kindly provided). but all that's in the past now.

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Originally Posted by risa59 View Post
Question 1: What is the life expectancy of the main Paph? I didn't realize that the main fan dies.
Depending on the species (or hybrid as the case may be) and the culture, the old growths can last years. I have old wardii and Crossianum growths that have hung around for 2-3+ years and counting. Some species prone to clumping, like Paph insigne can hang on to their old growths for 5+ years.

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Question 2: ... These side leaves don't appear to have their own roots and are attached lightly to the main fan. Should I remove them from the main fan before they all die ?
No, don't remove them. I never remove any healthy living leaves or tissue from my orchids. I can't tell from your description if they are good leaves on an old growth or new growths, ultimately it does not matter. If they're good and alive, let them be. The new growths will not have roots at the start but will grow them eventually. Paphs grow a little slower than other orchids. It sounds like you're doing fine so far. Get a good paph culture sheet and follow it. Let us know if you have more questions.

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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2009, 05:44 AM
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Since no one is going to ask, I have to.
I don't have any idea what you are talking about.
Can someone please tell me what a "Phalenonopis" and a "Phalaenonopsis" are?

I also don't know what "Phallies" and "Phalles" are???

There are a lot of words being used in this thread I have never seen before.

Also, what is a "box-store hybrid"?

I just woke up and this thread has confused me so much I am going somewhere else for the time being.

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Old 03-28-2009, 03:50 PM
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More Phal Questions-

I have a small 6-7" non-blooming phal that needs some TLC:

I had a damaged leaf about 2 months ago and an orchid grower for the Smithsonian recommended cutting the leaf below the damage and dusting with cinnamon to prevent fungus.

Now I have another leaf nearest the center core of the plant that is turning white/translucent and the spot is spreading... Also, an older leaf is beginning to yellow from the base of the plant towards the tip.

Any ideas on what might be wrong?

I repotted this orchid back in January with coco husks.
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Old 05-03-2009, 10:16 PM
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Yellowing leaves at the base of the plant can just be the normal process of older leaves dying off.

But if it is coming from the center of the plant it sounds like a fungal problem. It could have been caused by getting water in between the leaves, in the crown. You can use a cotton swab to gently swab this out.

I've also read of phal orchid leaves turning white because of heat damage. Is it possible the sun was too direct, or your home got too hot toward the end of the winter? In that case the plant will recover on its own if you prevent this from happening again.
_
Also, I think you should go ahead and check the roots before the next watering for signs of being over-wet. It can't hurt. Then you can reduce watering if need be.

Otherwise perhaps someone can suggest a more serious treatment for infection.

Last edited by elmira; 05-03-2009 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 08-08-2009, 03:27 PM
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Arrow I got a new Paph

Thanks for the info. I just got back from a greenhouse with a paph. Haven't tried this type before so I was a little nervous about it's care. My other orchids are growing happily outside here in central Illinois. It's going to be 95 today so I'll leave my new prize inside until it cools off in a few days and it can join the others outside.
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Old 12-15-2009, 03:54 AM
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thank you
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Old 02-27-2010, 06:27 PM
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I have been wondering what to do with the spike after the blooms drop, thanks for clarifying kmarch!
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Old 03-10-2010, 10:08 AM
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Thanks for the info!
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Old 05-13-2010, 04:37 AM
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Unhappy Phal.orchid

Dear Fred,

Thanks for the detailed care for phals and paph.I have a problem with a phal I bought in flowers.after flowerin I left the stems 2 on the plant,next I cut them to the next node and a stem started to grow but except center leaf which is there after repotting all the leaves have drooped but not dropped off.To save the plant I subsequently took off the stems upto the base.The central leaf is fresh however but no growth.

I have them in open under shaded light.All watering and fert.,have not brought it to growing or all leaves to freshenup?What to do??Thanks zaeem
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Old 06-17-2010, 08:46 AM
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since i'm 'new' to orchid talk, i find all the info super helpful. thank you owners for this wonderful forum, laura
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Old 08-18-2010, 03:03 PM
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phal question

I have a phal which has a translucent film on some of the exposed roots is this natural it is flowering now and the leaves are nice shiny green with purple hugh on the underside
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Old 08-18-2010, 03:54 PM
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If you mean that it looks white or silvery, then that ia a good thing. When you water it does it turn green?
Healthy roots look white or silvery when dry and when wet they turn green.
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Old 08-23-2010, 09:44 AM
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silver to green

thats what they do thanks much Fred
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Old 02-09-2011, 01:14 AM
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Great information. I am new to this forum, as well as growing orchids. My question is...What kind of natural light and what amount do I give catts, phly and vanda's? I live in South Fla, zone 10-11, and have a greenhouse with tinted plastic panels but has a generous amoint of air. In the summer I have a fan to circulate the air. Nothing is reblooming except the vanda's, which are in a leafy tree that gets sunlight. I need alot of advice. Thank you, nicky
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Old 02-09-2011, 01:58 AM
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Quote:
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Great information. I am new to this forum, as well as growing orchids. My question is...What kind of natural light and what amount do I give catts, phly and vanda's?
Give these a read and let us know if you have questions:
http://www.orchidgeeks.com/forum/orc...ure-notes.html
http://www.orchidgeeks.com/forum/orc...ure-notes.html
http://www.orchidgeeks.com/forum/orc...m-the-aos.html

I don't know what you mean by a "phly".
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Old 03-17-2011, 07:44 PM
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Is a mottled-leaf paph one with patterns on the leaves?
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Old 03-17-2011, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
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Is a mottled-leaf paph one with patterns on the leaves?
Your paph, which I assume is the one you've been posting about in other threads is not a mottle leaf paph. The term mottle leaf paphs refer to the Maudiae type hybrids and species used to make them.
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Old 04-17-2011, 09:39 AM
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Thanks for this thread!! I almost killed my phaps in too much light... placed it someplace shady now... thanks thanks!!!
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Old 04-17-2011, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iddawg5143 View Post
I have never been able to grow phal's. I get one and give it a try again this time in the kitchen window.
Should I still water very 4 to 5 days.
Thanks for the info.
iddawg5143
Hi. For a long time I had a similar problem, with some of my Phals going brown and rotting away. On closer inspection of a dead plant, I found that when purchased, they appeared to be planted in bark, and I was testing the moisture level by working my finger into the edge of the pot. In actual fact, the roots were wrapped in water retaining moss, and bark was used to fill the pot. The plants were unwittingly being overwatered and the roots were rotting. I re-potted them all and now have a dozen healthy plants. I hope my experience will be of help. [Ivan.d]
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Old 05-17-2011, 05:35 AM
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Fred,

I am new to Orchids, retired and live in Singapore. After purchase of Phalenonpis and its beautiful and lengthy flowering period I put them outside on my Orchid benches facing east I.e morning sun until 10am. The rest of the day they are in complete shade. I feed them half the recommended dose of fertilizer, insecticide and fungicide once per week and water every second day. Have never succeeded yet in getting them to reflower and most die. I repot them after flowering into charcoal. Can you help please?

Warmest Regards,

brianb
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Old 05-17-2011, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianb View Post
Fred,

I am new to Orchids, retired and live in Singapore. After purchase of Phalenonpis and its beautiful and lengthy flowering period I put them outside on my Orchid benches facing east I.e morning sun until 10am. The rest of the day they are in complete shade. I feed them half the recommended dose of fertilizer, insecticide and fungicide once per week and water every second day. Have never succeeded yet in getting them to reflower and most die. I repot them after flowering into charcoal. Can you help please?

Warmest Regards,

brianb
How do the leaves look when they die? I would have thought your growing conditions are ideal but it depends on a number of factors. Do you have any photos?
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Old 05-18-2011, 03:29 AM
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Quote:
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How do the leaves look when they die? I would have thought your growing conditions are ideal but it depends on a number of factors. Do you have any photos?
Thanks for the response........leaves dark, dry with shrinkage usually fall off and left with dry crown & roots.
Plants bought from garden centre in flower and potted in a moss like mixture that holds heaps of water. After flowering cut the spike(s) back to first nodule from base. Repot in charcoal keeping plant as horizontal as possible to avoid rotting of tip. Drench in water weekly one day before applying a weak solution (21 21 21) fertilizer & a weak solution of Malathion which is usually on a Monday, water Wednesday, spray a weak solution of Capton fungicide & Triconsan 20 Physan, on Thursday, water Friday & Sunday. Repeat this each week. Nothing has lived to tell the tale.

Currently I have eleven Phils that I purchased in late January 2011 just prior to Chinese New Year, of which one is still in flower. The others are on a bench outside in morning sun. Will take some photos tomorrow.

Redards

Brianb
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Old 05-26-2011, 10:24 PM
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Outside benched Phalaenopsis

Bolero,

Reference subject previously discussed i.e. that my outside Phalaenopsis always die off.

Promised to send photos last Friday but failed by a week.

This batch have been outside and re-potted in charcoal since early April this year. Would appreciate comments on condition and any corrections to feeding/watering that you might have.

Brian
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Old 08-03-2011, 06:21 AM
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Hi all,
I have a Paph Radley x March-Fire and i was just wondering if you could tell me what kind of paph it is (if you know) so that i can give it the right conditions.

here is some info from RHS about each of the parents

Radley:
The International Orchid Register / RHS Gardening

and

March-Fire:
The International Orchid Register / RHS Gardening
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Old 08-03-2011, 06:24 AM
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also, with light, you were talking about foot candles..... is there anyway you could translate that to shadecloth %'s for me...... PLEASE
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Old 08-03-2011, 06:58 AM
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also another question (i should eventually run out ) if a paph's old fan (i believe that is the correct term, please correct me if it isn't) dies, then how do people get specimen sizes?
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Old 08-11-2011, 07:00 PM
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I did not feel that (this) way at all!

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I am really disappointed with the whole tone of this thread. I agree to asking questions to get a feel how others do thing in real life rather than the textbooks which frequently disagree with each other or obviously copy each other.
The tone of this interchange struck me as being "cranky" for lack of a better word. I have not noticed this on this site before and hope it does not get to be a habit.
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I do not feel tis way at all!!!!!
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Old 08-11-2011, 07:04 PM
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I thought this thread was just fine!
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Old 10-10-2011, 05:28 PM
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Thanks for the information. I have 4 Phals and am new at this so it helps a lot.
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Old 10-10-2011, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pikkumyy View Post
also another question (i should eventually run out ) if a paph's old fan (i believe that is the correct term, please correct me if it isn't) dies, then how do people get specimen sizes?
You run out of 's

Fan is the correct term so you get an A+ Don't forget the only way a paph gets a new spike is from a new fan. The new fans get nutrients etc from the old fans just like with other chids that have pbulbs. Also remember that when a fan puts out a new spike, blooms the dies that's it. It does take quite a while for the old fans to die off.

I hope I explained this right. I am sure one of our paph experts will correct me if I'm wrong
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:16 AM
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I have desperated with phal.. Whatever i do,i always make thjem wrinkle..
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Old 12-14-2011, 04:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianb View Post
Bolero,

Reference subject previously discussed i.e. that my outside Phalaenopsis always die off.

Promised to send photos last Friday but failed by a week.

This batch have been outside and re-potted in charcoal since early April this year. Would appreciate comments on condition and any corrections to feeding/watering that you might have.

Brian
When a phals leaves go wrinkled like that, the plant itself is not getting enough water. This could be because of 2 things. Either you need more water, or the roots have rotted and are not getting the water to the plant.

The fungacide and insecticide regular use could be causing damage to the root structure or plant and poisoning it slowly. Back it off a fair bit. A dose every few months is heaps, or as the problems arise. Any bugs or fungus that do get in will be resistant and wipe you out.

Charcoal is a very dry medium and does not retain water. I think it retains salts and could cause problems.

The morning sun could cause problems, but you dont have any signs of sunburn, so maybe it is OK.
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Old 01-25-2012, 10:55 AM
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Fred, I have always used 18.18.18, 6.20.30, and 30.10.10 for my cymbidiums and they've been fine. But then I started a collection of Phallies and 4 months ago I bought some slow release fertiliser for them at an orchid show. I can't say that I can see a great difference. Is it too soon to tell? The instruction is 1/4 teaspoon once a year sprinkled in the pot. Which fertilising system would you recommend for my Phallies?
(I love orchidgeek but get lost navigating the site.)
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Old 04-12-2012, 03:54 PM
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Nice write up, thanks !
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:25 AM
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Does anyone grow any Phals lithophytically as they grow in nature? (e.g. pulcherrima etc).
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:50 AM
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Phalaenonopsis not growing

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The common name for the Phalaenonopsis is the "moth orchid" as the flower petals resemble the wings of a moth. Well-grown plants can flower often, sometimes with a few flowers throughout the year, though the main season is late winer into spring. Average home temperatures and conditions are usually sufficient. Flower stems on certain hybreds can be forced to rebloom by cutting the tip off after initial flowering. Only healthy plants should be induced to flower repeatedly.

LIGHT is easy to provide for phalaenopsis. They grow easily in a bright window, with little or now sun. An east window is ideal in the home; shaded south or west windows are acceptable. In overcast, northern winter climates, a full south exposure may be needed. Artificial lighting can easily be provided. Fourfluorescent tubes in one fixture supplemented by incandescent bulbs are placed 6 to 12 inches above the leaves, 12 to 16 hours a day, following natural day length. No shadow should be seen if you hold your hand one foot above a plant's leaves.

TEMPERATURES for phalaenopsis should usually be above 60 degrees F at night, and range between 75 and 85 F or more during the day. Although higher temperatures force faster vegetative growth, higher humidity and air movement must accompany higher temperatures, the recommended maximum being 90 to 95 F. Night temperatures to 55 F are desirable for several weeks in the autumn to initiate flower spikes. Fluctuating temperatures can cause bud drop on plants with buds ready to open.

WATER is especially critical for phalaenopsis. Because they have no major water-storage organs other than their leaves, they must never completely dry out. Plants should be thoroughly watered and not watered again until nearly dry. In the heat of summer in a dry climate, this may be every other day; in the winter in a cool northern greenhouse, it may be every ten days. Water only in the morning, so that the leaves dry by nightfall, to prevent rot.

HUMIDITY is important to phalaenopsis, the recommended humidity between 50 and 80 percent. In humid climated, as in greenhouses, it is imperitive that the humid air is moving. Leaves should be dry as soon as possible, always by nightfall. In the home, set the plants on trays of gravel, partially filed with water, so that the posts never sit in water.


FERTILIZE on a regular schedule, especially if the weather is warm, when the plants are most often growing. Twice a month applications of high-nitrogen fertilizer (such as 30-10-10) are appropriate where bark-based media are used. Otherwise, a balanced fertilizer is best. When flowering is desired, a high phosphorus fertilizer (such as 10-30-20) can be applied to promote blooming. Some growers apply fertilizer at one-quarter strength with every watering; this is best for warm, humid conditions. When cooler, or under overcast conditions, fertilizer should be applied twice per month at weak strength.

POTTING is done in the spring, immediately after flowering. Phalaenopsis plants msut be potted in a porous mix. Potting is usually done every one to three years. Mature plants can grow in the same container until the potting medium starts to decompose, usually in two years. Root rot occurs if plants are left in a soggy medium. Seedlings usually grow fast enough to need repotting yearly, and should be repotted in a fine-grade medium. Mature plants are potted in a medium-grade mix. To repot, remove all the old medium from the roots, trim soft, rotted roots, and spread the remaining roots over a handful of medium in the bottom of a new pot. Fill the rest of the pot with medium, working it among the roots, so that the junction of the roots and the stem is at the top of the medium.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Paphiopedilums, the lady's slipper orchids, come from south east Asia and the Asian-Pacific islands. They are semiterrestrial, growing in humus and other material on the forest floor, on cliffs in pockets of humus, and occasionally in trees. They are easy to grow at home, under lights or in the greenhouse.

These plants have flowers of heavy substance, lasting from one to three months. There are multi-flowered, sequentially flowered, and single flowered varieties of many different sizes, shapes and colors. To this day there is no accurate way to clone Paphiopedilums, making mass production difficult. Therefore the Paphiopedilum is one of the most unique and popularly collected orchids in the world. Many varieties can be grown easily indoors.

LIGHT is easier to provide for Paphiopedilums than many other types of orchids. They require shady conditions as in the hone in an east or west window, near a shaded south window, or even in a north window. In the greenhouse, shade must be provided. Give about 1000 to 1500 foot-candles. In the home fluorescent lighting is excellent; suspend two or four tubes six to twelve inches above the leaves.

TEMPERATURE for Paphiopedilums cover a considerable range. They are traditionally separated into three groups: the warm-growing mottled-leaved types, the cool-growing green-leaved types, and the warmer-growing strap-leaved multifloral Paphiopedulums.


Warm-growing types should be kept at 60 to 65 degrees F during the night and 75 to 85 degrees F or more during the day. Cool-growing types should be kept at 50 to 60 degrees F during the night and 75 to 85 degrees during the day. However, many growers raise all plants in the same temperature range with excellent results. The plants can stand night temperatures in the 40s if necessary (as when grown outside in mild climates), as well as temperatures to 95 F. Care must be taken to protect the plants from rot when cold (keep humidity low, and avoid moisture on leaves or in the crowns of the plants), and also to protct from burning when hot (shade more heavily and increase humidity and air movement around the plants).

WATER must be available at the roots constantly, because all plants in this genus have no pseudobulbs. All of these plants need a moist medium never soggy, but never dry. Water once or twice a week depending on the medium in which they are planted and other cultural contditions such as temperature adn humidity.

HUMIDITY for paphiopedulum should be moderate, between 40% and 50%, which can be maintained in the home by setting the plants on trays of gravel, partially filled with water, so that the plants never sit in water. In a greenhouse, average humidity is sufficient. Using an evaporative cooling system in warm climates can increase the humidity. Air movement is essential, especially when humidity is high.

FERTILIZE on a regular schedule,but care must be taken to avoid burning of the fleshy, hairy roots. High-nitrogen fertilizers (such as 30-10-10) are recommended when potted in any fir-bark mix. In warm weather, some growers use half-strength applications every two weeks; others use one-quarter strength at every watering. It's important to fulsh with clear water monthly to leach excess fertilizer, which can burn the roots. In cool weather, fertilizer applications once a month are sufficient.

POTTING Paphs like fresh potting medium and are not tolerant of stale, broken down mix so annual repotting is recommended. Mixes vary tremendously; most are fine or medium-grade fir bark, with varying additives, such as perlite (sponge rock), course sand, charcoal, sphagnum moss or shreaded leaves. Moisture retention with excellent drainage is needed. Large plants can be divided by pulling or cutting the fans of the leaves apart, into clumps of three to five growths. Smaller divisions will grow, but may not flower. Before dividing, make sure each proposed division has a full set of healthy roots. Spread the roots over a small amount of medium in the bottom of the pot and fill with medium, so that the junction of roots and stems is buried 1/2 inch deep in the center of the pot. Do not overpot but select a pot just large enough to comfortably accomodate the roots.
My Phalaenonopsis dont grow. I am from Kolkata, nearly 35 degree centigrade in day time. Plants are in 75% shade. In the morning time plants are getting full sun. After that they are in in 50% shade. I am feeding them 20:20:20 (light dose) weekly. Moisture level and air movement are o.k. Please help.
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Old 05-06-2012, 10:54 AM
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Phalaenonopsis not growing

My Phalaenonopsis dont grow. I am from Kolkata, nearly 35 degree centigrade in day time. Plants are in 75% shade. In the morning time plants are getting full sun. After that they are in in 75% shade. I am feeding them 20:20:20 (light dose) weekly. Moisture level and air movement are o.k. Please help. Request a feeding chart also.
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Old 05-16-2012, 11:00 AM
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This info is very helpful. I am a newbie as well and I hope for my plant to get better and buy at least one more. Hopefully with this new info I have I am able to care for it adequately.
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Old 11-18-2016, 04:16 PM
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New Roots - Can I repot?

Hello,

I have a Phalaenopsis for 7 years and it bloomed twice. Some of the roots are dried out and it's still in the original pot. I have not repot it nor add any new potting soil to it.

Last week there are 3 new roots (yay!) I'm wondering if I should repot it now or should I wait?

Thank you,
Evelyn
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