Removing keikis

[Marih]

I have lots of keikis on my kingianiums. How and when do i remove it to plant it in another pot? Or do i just leave it?

[kmarch]

With Den kingianum, I'd leave the keikis on. If your kinginaum is keiking, it might be worth your while to reexamine your culture.

Are they blooming for you?

Here in Australia (Melbourne) we can grow them outdoors all year round. They get quite cool in winter (as low as about 5C or 40F). I keep mine watered all year round, no drying out and keep them in bright indirect light (though they could probably handle more light). I get good growth, annual blooms, and no keiking.

[Marih]

They have never bloomed for me. I had the original one for 4 years now and recently split it into 3 because it's was growing so fast an it got too big for the pot. Growing very well and making keikis now.

[kmarch]

How are you growing them (what conditions, light, temps, watering, etc.)?

[Marih]

I first had them in my bathroom not enough light but alot of moisture. Move them to my kitchen for more light and afternoon sun. I soak them trough once a week and will spritz them once in awhile during the day. I'll fertilize them once a month or so if i remember. I would really like to get more involved with my orchids and take better care of them so any advice would be great. Thanks

[digitalgate]

sound like you dont have enought light on the plant. Use a light meter to check for light
intensity.

[brookn]

I don't think light is the only issue, I think they are being kept too consistently warm. From what Kevin has told me about their culture, thry need cool temps to produce blooms, and they like a rest period in winter? Is that correct kevin? They can withstand pretty cool temps.

[kmarch]

What are your temperatures where you're growing it?

[Andrew]

Marih,
What are your outside minimum temperatures in winter? I suspect that in the majority of South Africa, kingianums can be grown outside year round. This is not a particularly good orchid for indoor culture. The requirements for a cool winter and a lot of light are difficult for most indoor growers to provide. If you can grow it outside year round, so much the better.

As well as good culture, be aware that there is also a genetic component to keiki production in kingianum. Some clones are more inclined than others to produce keikis. While, modern kingies often flower easily with little to no keikis, a lot of the older clones especially the cheap, run of the mill, shell pinks produce lots of keikis and average flowering even with good culture (hence why they're cheap and readily available). Unfortunately, good clones are difficult to obtain outside of Australia and those that are available really need a lot of encouragement to flower. As for keiki removal, I usually wait until the roots are about 1-2" long before removing the keiki. I'm not a big fan of cutting orchids if I don't have to so I remove them by twisting the keiki around the axis of the join until it breaks free (ie spin it like a propeller ). The keiki should come free at a natural break point with minimal damage to the keiki or parent cane. You can powder the wounds with a fungicide if you want although I usually don't bother (avoid using cinnamon on the keiki).

[Fransle]

Could you please post some picture of your keiki ?
thanks

[brookn]

Kevin I just realized that I completely skipped past your culture post on these. I would like to award myself the big DUH award. I'll chalk it up to a blonde moment lol.