I am killing my Burana Beauty

[Ruth]

This will be about the 3rd or 4th summer I have had this orchid. It was in bloom when I got it as a gift, but has never bloomed again. I have kept the leaves nice and green until the last couple of months. They are shriveling and turning brown. Now they are falling off.
There is a sticker on the pot that says Burana Beauty "Burana" AM/CST. I don't know if that means anything in particular other that it's a Burana.
Should I cut back the dying leaves? Should I repot it? I usually have it sitting in a spot that has sun shining directly thru in the morning and not directly in the afternoon. I water it about once a week. Should I change either of these things?
I would be very grateful for help on this one. Thanks all!

Ruth

(Sorry about posting to wrong spot earlier)

[ryan_d_cruz]

Ruth,
Since you have had this plant for around 3 or 4 years, I assume that you have been following the right watering schedules, but I also assume that you have not repotted this plant for quite sometime. The potting mix (fir bark) will mostly have deteriorated during this time, causing the roots to die and thus depriving your plant of water and nutrients.

Assuming that the sticker on your pot "Burana Beauty" is right, it is a cattleya hybrid, it will mostly need a medium Epiphytic orchid compost, you could get a packet of this from Home Depot. I will advise you to immediately remove your orchid from the existing potting mix and have the roots washed in warm water, cut out any dead roots with a clean scissors or shears, let the plant then dry out for a day or so, before repotting with the new mix, the new mix should be soaked for an hour or so and then completely drained before being used. Do not replant the plant too deep into the compost (barely covering the base should do), you could also push a stake into the compost and tie the plant to it, this will prevent the new roots from breaking if the plant is accidentally shaken. Place the pot in light shade, out of direct sunlight and mist lightly once a day, water it about once a week if the compost seems dry, it might take some time but ur plant should soon be back to its normal state. These plants also like warm climate so keep it in a cozy place (prolong low temperatures can also cause the plant to drop leave and die)

once your plant starts sprouting new leaves you could use a 20-20-20 (nitrogen-phosphorous-potassium) fertilizer, diluted to quarter the strength during your regular watering, to induce flowering you could use fertilizer with a higher phosphorous content.

hope this helps.....all the Best

Ryan

Your plant is not a Burana. It is a Potinara, specifically Potinara Burana Beauty 'Burana'. Its a cross of cattleya, brassavola, laelia and sophronitis. If you are only giving it morning sun than the plant is light starved. You are probably giving it optimum water but minimum light, and the roots can't handle all the water because they are not stimulated by enough light. Usually when plants don't bloom it's because of insufficient light. I don't know where you live, but I live in New Jersey and in the summer outside my plants get full sun for most of the day and in the winter indoors they're right up against the clear glass in my south facing window.

[jerrymeola]

The advice from Ryan and Orchid126 at both correct and I would like to tie it together with additional factors.



Blooming is a function of light as the most critical factor. Wtih Cattleya alliance orchids they need about 3500 foot candles of light to bloom. This is usually about half day sun. Usually cats getting enough light will be light green leaves to almost yellow green. A dark green leaf is the result of too much chlorophyll because of the lower then necessary light levels (this is not as truw for other families of orchids). However, this is last year's issue and hopefully next year's changes.

The health of the plant is in question. It can be root rot like Ryan said but it also can be dying roots from other causes. Root rot often displays itself as blackening on the leaves especially at the base of the leaf and soft mushy pseudobulbs (the fat area just below the leaf). If yours are dry and shriveling it is more likely that the roots are not drawing water into the plant.

Either event requires the plant to be removed and inspected. If the roots are black and soft, it is root rot and needs to be cut away. If the roots are white and crushed flat, they may be dead and need to be cut away.

To test the roots, if it is not rot, remove all the growing medium around the roots and discard it (also remove and discard for rot). The plant really needs to be repotted every two years. The bark does not last. Then soak the bare roots in water. Good roots should become puffy and may look a little green. Activly growing roots are white with a good green tip. Using SuperThrive will help activate old roots but may be hard for you to find. Cutting away any roots that do not appear to be able to absorb water should be done. I have cut away every root on one plant that was flowering badly and was rewarded with new roots and flowers within six months.

In general all plants discard old leaves what is most important is whether it is producing new growth to replace the normal attrition of leaves. If your plant is growing new pseudobulbs and leaves it will do fine. If not, repot with fresh medium, place in a lower than normal light level until you see new growth as Ryan suggested but check the water level in the potting medium. It may need less water than normal until it begins to grow again.

[Ruth]

I wanted to thank all of you for your help. Everyone provided useful information. I have removed the orchid from the old pot and removed the potting medium. The roots aren't black they are white. I have got a new pot and bark.
Thanks again!