Phal Root Damage Question

[roambb]

I made the mistake of purchasing a few $11 Phals from one of the BIG BOX home improvement stores, and found to my dismay that there is extensive root damage to both Phals. I cut off the rotted roots, and flowering spikes and repotted in an attempt to save the plants. I am using Orchid mix bark medium, have the plants in east facing windows (in Atlanta GA), but am worried about the lack of healthy roots. The ones left are firm, but seem to be dried out, not in a healthy way either, where they are grey until watered. What can I do to encourage root growth, or possibly save these plants. Please help, i don't want to lose any more Orchids.
Patrick

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

Sounds like you did the right thing. Don't let them get any direct sun, even filtered as this puts a lot of stress on plants with insufficient roots. You can help to maintain then until more roots grow by throwing a baggy loosely over each plant to raise the humidity around the plants. The color of the roots is not a problem, just so long as they are firm. Cynthia, Prescott, AZ

[roambb]

Thanks again Cynthia,
Quick question about the bag technique. How long should I leave the bag on, should I seal it completely, and should I water before I put the bag on. I have the Two Phals in orchid mix bark, is this alright?

Thanks again,
Patrick

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

You might just leave them over the plants until you see some root activity near the base of each plant, assuming that you did not plant them so deeply, that you can't see the bases. The newest roots on Phals are generally near the uppermost previous roots or just above, so you may be able to see some activity. I guess I would then wait another month. But, if the roots start to go upward or level with the pot, and not into the mix, remove the bag. The humidity eminating from the pot should help them to grow downward towards the humidity. You will have to water normally by removing the bag and taking the plant to a faucet and giving the pot a very good bath. However, be prepared for a different watering schedule with the bag on than without it. You might want to use the bamboo/wood skewer method to monitor wetness of the pot, since you don't want to rot the roots any further. Place a very clean, new skewer into the pot, preferably one that has not been handled by human hands, as by placing it into the pot, you take the chance you will stab a root, and you don't want to infect the plant with a virus. This stick is left permanently in the pot, except to pull it now and then to see what it looks like, giving an idea of how much water is in the pot. It should look almost, but not qiute normal color when the plant is ready to be watered again. Phals should not dry out completely, but they very definitely should not be wet when watered. Error a little on the dry side for safty.

'Orchid mix' could mean one of a couple of things. It used to be that 'orchid bark' was the term for a mix appropriate to Cattleyas, and 'orchid mix' was a term for a much more moisture retentive mix for Paphs and Cymbidiums. Now I see that the term 'orchid mix' seems to be used for a Catt type mix. The kind you should be using should have chunks about 3/4" long, and fairly open and airy. A very fine mix would stay wet to long. But, in the end, any of these would really work if you could adjust the watering so that the pot reaches the correct dampness. It should be obvious from this, but sometimes not thought of, that potting in a very large pot can keep the mix from drying out in a reasonable amount of time, no matter what mix is use. So, generally, keep the pot as small as possible. Cynthia, Prescott, AZ

[roambb]

Thanks a lot for all the information Cynthia. I will let you know how it goes. The bark mix I'm using is supposedly for Phals....
Hoping for the best,
Patrick

[jerrymeola]

I can never say enough bad things about buying Orchids from Home Improvement stores. By buying these plants even at $11 you gave them a big profit for destroying a plant. Buying bad plants just encourages the company to deal in more bad plants. They will never pay enough for a qualified employee to care for the plants.

These plants will probably take two years to flower from this point. You could have bought a quality seeding for less money and it would have flowered in two years. Phals are normally flowering in less than 30 months from seed, one year from a six inch size. A damaged plant takes a year or more to recover and then a year to flower.

I will not say using orchid bark for phals is wrong, but I do not know a single commercial grower who uses it. Phals want to be slightly moist all the time and sphag works much better for commercial growers. I know a lot of hobbists overwater in sphag, but the roots of a Phal are large and not dense in the pot. Too much of the bark is not touching roots and therefor the bark does not dry evenly.

I personally have gone to Clay slit pots and hydroponic rocks for Phals adding a saucer under the pot for true hydroponics. You can easily determine the need for water by the color of the wet pot. When it has lightened back to its normal color it is time to water again.

Even better is to mount the phals normally meaning with the roots on top and the leaves and flowers hanging down.

[roambb]

Thanks for the advice... and know that I will not buy at a hardware store again. I found a nursery devoted solely to Orchids near my office, which was incredible.