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Hi, I have about 4 phalaenopsis, which have very green large leaves, but no buds. I also have some 2 year old cattleyas that haven't bloomed. They all have healthy leaves, and seem healthy. What can I do to encourage the plants to bloom? I transplanted all of them last summer, into larger pots with holes on the sides. They seem all healthy, but I am wondering whether I am giving them the right temp. I am in the northeast, and I keep the temp to 60 degrees. Sometimes it gets warmer, but for the most part the temp is around 60- 70. Is this too cold? Any idea what I can do to have some blooms? Thanks, Sunny9 Last edited by sunny9; 03-01-2006 at 11:25 PM. Reason: spelling |
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60-70 degrees all year round? catts and phals sometimes enjoy higher temps especially in the summer months, where do you grow them? generally if the plant is growing well and the leaves are dark green then more light is needed. increase it a little at a time by moving them to a brighter location or adding lights. it may take another year so relax |
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| waiting for blooms Quote:
Thanks, Sunny9 |
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One at a time, they are very different issues. Phalaenopsis only bloom once a year and require a cool period to set the buds. Now is the season for flowering Phals. Move them to a cooler place where they will get chilling at night to around 50 degrees. 75 degree days and 50 degree nights is perfect for phals. In the north a hall or even a cellar is good. Mine got as low as 36 this year (not on purpose but it can not be prevented outdorrs in florida) but most reference books say this is too low. The dark green leaves on a phal are not indicative of low light, per se. They always have dark leaves. I posted a method of measuring light using a camera so get a light reading. Phals like low light levels around 1500 footcandles. here is the link Measuring light levels with an SLR camera Cattleys are a different issue. They need to be 5-7 years old and want to be very pot bound. Do not repot larger anymore (not as important for Phals). Plants should fill the pot from side to side and do best when they are overgrowing the sides. Repotting too large can set flowering back as much as two years. As an aside Cattleyas grow along a rizone in only one direction. When repotting they should have the oldest growth pushed against the side of the pot so it can continue to grow across. If you bought a young plant, it may not be old enough. Many cats bloom only once a year and species orchids seldom bloom more than once. Newer Hybrids can bloom as much as continuously all year round. Light levels may also be too low. Cats like about 3500-4000 foot candles. In the north best flowering is done by moving the plants to higher light outside in the summer. Indoor flowering of cats require supplimental lights or a very bright southern window. Again measure the light levels. All orchids do better with regular fertilizers. I recommend a balanced fertilizer 20-20-20, or 10-10-10 or other levels as long as the threee levels are about equal. Fertlize 'weakly weekly'. A teaspoon of fertilizer per gallon of water rather than the tablespoon recommded for tropical plants is the 'weak' solution and then fertilize with this water once a 'week'. Generally I do not like 'bloom boost fertilizers' where the middle number is high 8-30-15. They do not seem to work as well on orchids as they do on tropical plants. A good healty plant with the right light levels will bloom.
__________________ jerry |
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Thank you for the very detailed and informative response. It is very helpful. I have my thermostat set at 60 at night and through much of the day, so I have probably not provided enough of a temp. range for them. I think I will try to lower the temp to 55 at night, and pop it up to 65-70 during the day. As for the lighting, I think that will be the trickiest piece for me to address. I recently bought one of those special light bulbs for orchids, and will try it on the cattlys. thank you again for your very thoughtful response. Sunny 9 |
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