Please Help Me!!! I'm New And Need Answers!!!

[Kimberly Ann]

Hello to all you orchid geeks! I'm new to this forum and I'm also a new orchid geek/caregiver/grower/gardener/lover ...My first orchid was given to me by my boyfriend this past Valentine's Day (a lovely gift), a pink/purple-speckled Phalaenopsis, and I loved it so much that I purchased three more a few months later. The other three are also Phalaenopsis, one being another pink/purple-speckled one, another a light green one, and the last one a beautiful white with a pink/purple lip (is that what the center part is called?). I live in California, and keep them all indoors out of direct light. They were all in bloom when I got them, and now only two of them are. I got advice about caring for them from my grandmother, who has a collection growing outdoors in a tree in Florida. She told me to mist the entire plants with water everyday and fertilize about once a month. I have been misting them everyday, but haven't had the chance to fertilize yet, although I did finally buy some. My grandma told me that once the flowers fall off and when the stem turns brown and brittle, I should cut the stem at the base as close to the leaves as possible, but I have been getting conflicting info on the web. Some say to cut it halfway up, some say an inch up, some say 3 nodes up...I'm thinking I should just trust my grandma, since she's been successfully growing them for years, but I just want to make sure that's the way to do it. Two of my plants have lost all their flowers and the stems are brown (the leaves are green and healthy). What do you guys think? Also, should I start fertilizing just the flowering plants once a month? Or do I fertilize all of them regardless of whether they have flowers or not? And when do I re-pot them? Right after the flowers fall off? They all have roots coming out of the top of the pot. I've heard only every 2 years, but how do I know how long they've been growing for? I'd really appreciate your replies...

[brookn]

The spikes that are brown you can cut, cause they will not reflower. You cut the spike at the second or third node after the flowers drop, once it is brown won't flower again. Some people cut all the way off and some cut partially on the green spike, I am on the side of cutting the spike as far down as possible. The plant uses a lot of energy to flower and unless you are absolutely sure it is in great health (good roots, leaves, etc.) it is best to cut it back. The flowers that come from cutting the spike and reflowering usually are not as pretty as when it was first blooming.
Phals can be repotted at any time, but the blooms may blast, mine never have and I repot the minute I get one home, because I want to see the condition of the roots. I actually recently cut off a healthy spike with blooms (they weren't in great condition) because the plants roots were too iffy to me. I would rather save the plant to bloom another day than to kill it by letting it use all of it's energy blooming. It is customary though to repot after flowering.
The roots coming out of the top of the pot are normal. Some people call them aerial roots, but they are really just roots coming out of the pot. Some people say that the roots growing out of the pot is a sign that the medium is not making the plant happy or it just doesn't like it. I would get it out of the pot and inspect those roots. Let us know how that goes.

[MSPProductions]

I have to agree with Brookn. I have killed many a Phal to root issues. You can pick up a brick of sphag. moss that will last for all your plants for under $10.
I'd trim back the flower spike too. I'd also only mist my plants in the morning/early afternoon to prevent any spare water from sitting at the crown of the plant once the cooler night comes.

There are so many great people at this site....I'm sure you'll get a ton of great tips!

[kmarch]

Originally Posted by Kimberly Ann

My grandma told me that once the flowers fall off and when the stem turns brown and brittle, I should cut the stem at the base as close to the leaves as possible, but I have been getting conflicting info on the web. Some say to cut it halfway up, some say an inch up, some say 3 nodes up...I'm thinking I should just trust my grandma, since she's been successfully growing them for years, but I just want to make sure that's the way to do it.

Actually both your Grandma and the web are correct. Phals can be forced to rebloom by cutting a green (alive) spike just above the last node on the stem. A new flower spike will then emerge from the node. When the entire spike is dead, dried up and withered, it will not produce any more flowers and can be cut off as Grandma suggested.

You may find that what works for your Grandma in Florida may or may not work for you in California. The bottom line should always be what the plant needs. How we deliver that can vary depending on our growing conditions, the mix, our location, etc., etc. For example someone livign in Wisconsin would never mist a Phal because the combination of moisture and cool will probably cause crown rot.

Go to the AOS website (www.aos.org) and download a culture sheet on Phalaenopsis. Give it a good read and if you have more questions let us know!

Welcome to the forum and Happy Growing!

[janet_a]

42! 42! 42!

sorry, couldn't help myself.

[kmarch]

Originally Posted by janet_a

42! 42! 42! sorry, couldn't help myself.

??? huh ???

[janet_a]

hitchhiker's guide reference.

oh but hey i have a question too--i just acquired a paph that looks very much like the pic in your avatar; it's opening up, but the dorsal sepal is still quite far forward--will that turn more upright as the flower ages, or is it something specific to the grex?

[kmarch]

Originally Posted by janet_a

i just acquired a paph that looks very much like the pic in your avatar; it's opening up, but the dorsal sepal is still quite far forward--will that turn more upright as the flower ages, or is it something specific to the grex?

Not only do different grexes had different characteristics but individual plants within the grex can be quite difrferent as well. The stance of the dorsal sepal is of course strongly influenced by genetics but also, as you've suspected, the age of the flower and by culture as well. For example if you are growing your plant near (but not in) a window so that the light it receives is highly directional, the flower will "point towards" the light and the dorsal will not stand as erect as if it were in the window and "looking up" towards the light.

Do you know what your cross is?

[janet_a]

-screws up brain-

hsinying rainbow (taida) if that helps....

so once it gets out of quarantine i'll move it closer to the window and under the lamp and see if that works. even if it doesn't it's still a cool plant.