is my orchid getting too much sun?

[Drezden]

I've had a phal orchid about a foot from a southern window for 8 months.. since the newest leaf started growing its turned red. I know this is probably a sign that the orchid is getting a lot of light?

I also know in winter southern windows get more direct sunlight because the sun is lower on the horizon in the northern hemisphere.. the only other place I can put my orchid is near a western window, but that room never seems very bright.

Can too much light cause my orchid from growing a new spike?

I appreciate you answering this question you've seen many times.

I can't insert the pictures of it into this thread or put a link to them because I don't have five posts.. so until then I will describe it. The whole edge of the top side of the leaf has red going around it with the rest of the leaf being green in the middle.. on the underside of the leaf it's much darker red almost purple and red specs.

[Drezden]

Also what is the latest month an orchid will start to grow a new spike, if it's going to at all for the year?

[Drezden]

Thank you, 5

[teh_Kibbster]

Your "red" newest leaf is very healthy and happy. It looks like whatever you are doing, continue it! New leaves and roots are the build up to new buds!

As far as I know, more light does not equal faster/more spikes, but I'm sure someone with more experience will chime in. Too much light looks very different from your pictures, sunburn turns white and the cells in the leaf collapse and get very dry and thin.

Orchids don't have a calendar. They don't know what month it is. They put out spikes "when they feel like it" as I've been told. When the conditions are right, they will put out a spike.

For example, my largest, healthiest phal threw a spike in November 2010. This spike died back in April 2011, after blooming from January to April. I cut it right off to give it a break after such a long bloom. It threw another spike in August 2011, and currently has 6/14 buds open, and it looks like more buds are on the way. This plant won't take a break even when I ask it to.

On the other hand, I purchased another phal in May/June 2010, very sunburnt. This has yet to rebloom for me, although it is currently in the process of putting out another leaf for me. The phal in my avatar and signature was a 2008 purchase, bloomed in 2009, and has done nothing since but put out roots and leaves.

Apparently they can get caught in a growth cycle, very common after commercially grown plants have been forced to bloom. Don't be surprised if you have an "off" year as your plant re-coops and adjusts to it's current growing conditions.

Any growth is good growth, be happy with leaves and roots, and enjoy your blooms when they come!

[Drezden]

Thank you for your detailed reply. since I cut off the old spike its started growing that leaf and 3 new roots.. so I guess it just really wants to grow everything but a spike hah.. that's fine if it means the plant is healthy then I'm happy.

[Hummer344]

Your plant looks healthy so that part of it is good. The other part of the equation is that phal usually like to have a day night temp change in order to initiate flower spikes. Since your plant has been inside all the time the day/night temp change may not be enough to do this. Try putting where it will get cooler at night(in the mid to high 50's) but usual house temps during the day.
Good Luck

[syndywindy]

Usually if you have a purple tinged leaf it's an indication that the eventual blooms will be of similar coloring. Phals are low light plants so it's also possible some of that leaf coloring is from the amount of light it is getting. Overall your phal looks healthy so I wouldn't be too concerned. Are you able to move the plant further from the window? As was mentioned, phals generally require a drop in night time temps to initiate spiking. If temps stay constant, it may be harder to get your plant to spike. Maybe at night you can open the window a crack so it can feel that drop in temps?

[FLBob]

You are correct that the reddish cast are as a result of high light, but I don't see any signs of too much light. I see a split leaf which is a sign of inconsistent watering, fertilizing and low humidity.

As far as flowering, commercial growers have found that daytime temps that exceed 80f will keep the plant in a vegetative growth mode ie leaves and roots are actively growing. Keeping the daytime temps in the upper 70's f will stimulate flower spikes. After the spike starts the daytime temps can be returned to + 80f.

When you grow near a window my guess is that the micro-climate that exists near the window will provide the + 80 f daytime temps even if your thermostat is set lower.

[Drezden]

The flowers on this plant are purple, I think you are right about them getting above 80 degrees because I leave the thermostat at 70 before going to work and all the windows are closed so by the time I get home and the suns coming through the window it's quite hot in that area.

Having them by that window is the coldest place though at night, I thought about cracking the window but I thought cold breezes were bad for them. It rarely gets freezing where I live, but it frequently can get in the high and mid 30's at night.

As for the cracked leaf, I fertilize very infrequently which I realized yesterday.. but I'm pretty sure I water consistently, when their containers are dry.

[jsehorn]

Your plant looks just fine. As others have mentioned, often plants with purple flowers will have more coloration in the leaves than plants with, say, yellow flowers.

The coloration is partially related to light levels. Sun burn would result in white or brown, dry, dead spots on the leaves. What you are seeing in your plant is more like a sun tan than a sun burn, so it's nothing to worry about.