First time grower

[Colombian Orchid]

Hello guys!
I have two beautiful phal orchids, I have only had them for about a week and they still look great ... but I'm worried that one day they will stop looking great. I'm just not sure if I'm taking good take care of them.

One of them is in my bathroom, I decided to put it there because there is an east facing window, which provides the phal w/ a lot of light during the morning and I heard humidity is good for it. My other orchid is in my room, I have put it there because there is a west facing window that provides the orchid w/ plenty of light during the afternoon, and I have also placed both orchids on top of plates filled w/ multiple stones and some water, so that it acts as a humidity tray.

Temperatures here in Raleigh, NC are between 60s - 70s F during the day, and 50s - 60s at night, which I consider is fine for the phals.

Guys, I just want to know if ther is something you will recomend me, or I would like you all to let me know what I could be doing wrong right now.

One last thing I would like to know ... do the flowers get smaller as they go down the stem??

I would really apreciate some feed back!! Thank you so much!!

[fred]

Hi and welcome to the forum.
I hope that you enjoy your stay with us.
Below is some useful information that i thought may help you.
Happy Growing


When growing Phalaenopsis orchid, while differing from Vanda in that it is stemless, is also of monopodial growth and not divisible.

It will occasionally throw adventitious plants from the nodes of the flower stem. Experiments have shown that it is possible, by wrapping the flower node in damp Osmunda and keeping it warm and damp, to force the growth of a new plant.

Phalaenopsis, the lovely white 'bride's orchids' from the Philippines and the Eastern Archipelago, respond well to sun, but must not be overexposed.

A warm, moist atmosphere, with plenty of air, is best for this species. Zygopetalums, found in Brazil, Venezuela, and the Guianas, require moderate exposure to sun.

The genus Phalaenopsis is also pseudobulb-less, and, if properly nourished, will bloom constantly and never rest. When the potting material is Osmunda, this tendency to excessive activity must be curbed or the plant will bloom itself to death.

Buds can be pinched off unless at least one pair of the firm, leathery leaves have been formed since the last flowering.

Old flower stems may break into bloom anew, which weakens the plant and should be discouraged by cutting stems close to the plant. The plant should be kept well watered, but the roots should not be allowed to become soggy from lack of air.

Phalaenopsis can be grown in pots or baskets. Oncidiums and Wanda coerulea thrive on rafts of bark or blocks of wood. Potting material may be tied firmly around the base of the plant and container with wire, allowing the air-loving roots to wander at will.

Growing Phalaenopsis orchid can give trouble to some growers. When potting, the plants should be well centered in the pot or basket. Medium should be well packed but not so firmly as for Cattleyas.

Compost should come well up around the base of the plant, since Phalaenopsis has a tendency to force the constantly forming crowns up from the medium. There should be very good drainage.

Osmunda makes a most satisfactory medium. When it comes to growing Phalaenopsis orchids, they are heavy feeders and will usually exhaust the medium in two years, after which they should be repotted.

This orchid has strap-like roots that wander out of the container and become fastened to it, the bench, or adjacent pots.

These roots must be severed in repotting, and the plant is inevitably set back. The intense interest in gravel culture, which is spectacularly successful with Phalaenopsis, is partly a result of this difficulty in repotting.

Phalaenopsis seem to be peculiarly susceptible to the disease of bacterial black spot. This appears as a tiny pearly spot in the crown and goes unnoticed frequently. The spot gradually turns black, spreads, and the leaves drop off, leaving an apparently dead crown.

In some cases such a plant may be nursed back to health and blooming, by repotting in new medium, injuring the roots as little as possible, and spraying lightly until new leaves form.

However, if the tiny beginning of the disease is noted, immediately treated with 1-1000 bichloride of mercury or Bioquin 700, the advance of the disease may often be checked completely.

Also----------------------------------------------------------------------

guide to growing PHALAENOPSIS ORCHIDS … commonly known as the moth orchid.


Depending on the reference book, Phalaenopsis consist of in excess of 50 species of epiphytic and occasionally lithophytic orchids. They are monoposial orchids consisting of short stem growth with succulent leaves and copious fleshy roots. They originate from India through South-East Asia and tropical Australia.

They are the most commonly grown orchids on the planet comprising greater than 70% of all pot plant orchids. This is because they have a generally long lasting floriferous flower sprays, wide range of colour and are fast growing from pollination to flowering in less than 3 years (in some cases one and a half to two years).

Growing Conditions

Light - 40 to 10% light transmission. I currently use 25 to 12% but will increase to 35 to 17% in future.

Temperature - Not greater than 30ºC. ideally 28º serves best. Not less than 16ºC. ideally 20º minimum, but temperatures as low as 3º can be sustained for short periods overnight.

Fertiliser - High nitrogen all year round eg 200mg Nitrogen per litre. I use Peters Peat-Lite High Nitrogen. Lower strength with sphagnum moss medium.

Medium - Currently I use 6 parts medium bark, 2 parts medium styrene foam, 1 part super coarse perlite. Sphagnum moss or coconut husk have proved excellent & both have water saving advantages. Clear pots with styrene foam in the base give good results.

Water - Depending on medium eg sphagnum once weekly or when sphagnum dries out.

Air Movement - Essential convection or ideally fans.

Winter - Continue to use fertiliser, water only on sunny days, in mornings and into pot only - avoiding growing centre. Heat if possible.

Humidity - 50 to 80% Wet floors in the morning or have a humidity controlled floor spray.

Flowering - Dropping the temperature to 20 to 25 degrees C for 3 weeks will give 100% spiking. Light screens and rapid air movement can influence this.

Colours Available - Standard whites and pinks - yellow - red - orange - green - blue. All these are available in striped, spotted, harlequin, French Spot, multiflora and novelty forms. Standard forms have flower sizes up to 150mm width and flower counts up to 20 per spike.