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| It sounds like your cymbidium had been blooming for a long time and the flowers were at the end of their blooming cycle when it was given to you. The flowers will not grow back on the growths that flowered this year. What will happen is that new pseudobulbs will develop adjacent to the old ones and - provided the plant receives proper growing conditions - these will bloom next year. Proper conditions include plenty of light and water, some fertilizer while foliage is growing, and at least a 20 degree difference between day/night temperatures in the fall when days get shorter. You don't say where you are, but in most places cymbidiums can go outside for the summer. |
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| I'm in Glasgow, Scotland so was planning on keeping the plant indoors. I live in a flat and have the Cymbidium in the kitchen (it has the best light). What fertilizer should I use? Am I supposed to cut the leaves back or just leave them as they are? |
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don't cut back the leaves, the leaves are where the plant makes its food. |
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i've heard to not use urea based fertilizers on orchids, but many members here haven't had a problem with it, so i don't believe it's that big of a deal. |
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| thanks again. about the leaves.... there are so many. i cut back the stalks once the flowers had fallen off and the stalks had turned black. now there is 1 new bulb with leaves which is really small. the pot looks really crowded though because there are 5 other bulbs with very long leaves. should i repot or will there be room for more stalks to grow? |
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| I believe the problem with urea-based fertilizers is that below a certain temperature, plants can not absorb the urea-based nitrogen. Therefore urea-based fertilizers don't work well with cooler growing plants. I have heard, quite a few times, not to use urea-based fertilizer on Cymbidiums as they will not absorb it in the cooler months and the fertilizer will build up and do all the nasty things it does when it builds up too much. |
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