roots

[jtsang]

I know the healthy roots are green and hard. But if the roots are losing the green part (skin) wrapping it and only have the roots itself remaining... see the picture attached (the red arrows pointing areas). Should I cut it or just leave it there? Thanks!

[LouisW]

The part that is missing, the Velamen, is essential to absorbing moisture as far as I know. I usually cut these roots off, although I think that if there is a healthy section of root (with Velamen) connected to the plant by a bare (without velamen) root, the healthy section can live and grow.

Your plant has a healthy root system otherwise so I would just cut them off.

[Phalcycle]

As LouisW had already said, the green skin as you call, is actually Velamen.
They keep the roots moist, thats why it is very important to not let them rot out.

I would cut any bare roots like that because they will have nore more use to the plant.

[SamIAm]

Hi jtsang,

Looking at your phal, there appears to be some wrinkling in the leaves. How often is it watered?...Wrinkling would signal one of two issues, it either is not getting enough water when you do water, or the roots aren't in the best of shape in order to draw up sufficient water. I disagree that the current roots are healthy. There is no new root growth that i can see nor any healthy root tips. How has it been potted...bark, moss...?...Plenty of ventilation for the roots?...

[jtsang]

Originally Posted by SamIAm

Hi jtsang,

Looking at your phal, there appears to be some wrinkling in the leaves. How often is it watered?...Wrinkling would signal one of two issues, it either is not getting enough water when you do water, or the roots aren't in the best of shape in order to draw up sufficient water. I disagree that the current roots are healthy. There is no new root growth that i can see nor any healthy root tips. How has it been potted...bark, moss...?...Plenty of ventilation for the roots?...

I water the plant every Sunday. The Orchid is potted with 20% bark at the bottom(just bark chip, not bark mix), then 70% moss.

[SamIAm]

Hi jtsang,

Thanks for the pictures, nice blooms ...Two questions, 1. Does your phal stay outside all the time?...and, 2. Has anyone pointed out that glazed clay pots do *not* allow for adequate airflow to the roots of orchids? Depending on the size of the pot, using bark in the bottom may not be the optimum choice. Many use larger pebbles, styrofoam peanuts (that do not break down) glass marbles etc, basically anything that doesn't retain moisture and allows good drainage. The roots aren't in the best of shape. Clay pots are acceptable for orchids, but glazed clay pots are not since they can't *breathe* as normal clay pots do. Also, clay (unglazed) pots wick moisture away, which may require watering more than once a week. Is the moss dry on watering day, or is it dry beforehand?...Phals love sphag moss, it's just finding the right pot, that offers good airflow to the roots along with proper watering etc for each individuals circumstances.

[jtsang]

Originally Posted by SamIAm

Hi jtsang,

Thanks for the pictures, nice blooms ...Two questions, 1. Does your phal stay outside all the time?...and, 2. Has anyone pointed out that glazed clay pots do *not* allow for adequate airflow to the roots of orchids? Depending on the size of the pot, using bark in the bottom may not be the optimum choice. Many use larger pebbles, styrofoam peanuts (that do not break down) glass marbles etc, basically anything that doesn't retain moisture and allows good drainage. The roots aren't in the best of shape. Clay pots are acceptable for orchids, but glazed clay pots are not since they can't *breathe* as normal clay pots do. Also, clay (unglazed) pots wick moisture away, which may require watering more than once a week. Is the moss dry on watering day, or is it dry beforehand?...Phals love sphag moss, it's just finding the right pot, that offers good airflow to the roots along with proper watering etc for each individuals circumstances.

Hi SamIAm,

Oh... I don't realize that glazed clay pot is not the best choice for Orchid. The blue glazed pot that I use for the Orchid now, it only has 1 air hole at the bottom (see pic attached). The bark that use for the Orchid, I don't know that it has to soak for couple hours. Yesterday, I purchased another "unglazed clay pot" from Homedepot. This one has multi air holes on the side and 1 air hole at the bottom. I am thinking to repot that Orchid. However, I am still looking for "SuperThrive" and "Organic Worm Tea". These stuffs can't find in Homedepot or Lowes. Heard ppl from the forum said that Superthrive can make the roots stronger, therefore I really want to give it a try (and the hydrogen peroxide will fix the rotten roots too).

The Orchids are on the kitchen counter top (see pic attached). The house entrance is facing Northeast.

The moss surface always looks dry. But when I put my finger inside, I feel the moist (so not too bad, right)? Sphag moss is different than just the orchid moss? Thanks for your help!

[mehitabel]

As Sam said, orchids do need air at the roots. That's the reason for using bark chunks instead of soil in the pot. Also the reason why lots of holes are used in orchid pots. Without the air, the roots will rot.

One hole at the bottom isn't really enough for orchids. I have had the best luck with orchids since I began burning extra holes in the bottom of my (plastic) pots. With a special drill bit, I'm told you can cut extra holes in the bottom of clay pots. But that seemed too hard to do, as the clay is so fragile. With plastic pots, you can use a saudering iron and go to town. I burn as many holes in the bottom of the pot as I can fit and still have the pot hold together.

The need for air at the roots is also the reason for not using oversized pots for orchids. In a too-big pot, the medium stays too wet, and the water crowds out air, causing the roots to rot.

About Superthrive-- it's available at HD and Lowe's here. Ask for it. The Worm Tea is purchased via the internet from Jerry Meola, who posts on this site. His website is called "OrchidsAmore"

Sphag is terrific for rehabilitating orchids with root problems. I agree with Sam that it's a good medium in general if you can work out how to use it.

[jtsang]

Originally Posted by mehitabel

As Sam said, orchids do need air at the roots. That's the reason for using bark chunks instead of soil in the pot. Also the reason why lots of holes are used in orchid pots. Without the air, the roots will rot.

One hole at the bottom isn't really enough for orchids. I have had the best luck with orchids since I began burning extra holes in the bottom of my (plastic) pots. With a special drill bit, I'm told you can cut extra holes in the bottom of clay pots. But that seemed too hard to do, as the clay is so fragile. With plastic pots, you can use a saudering iron and go to town. I burn as many holes in the bottom of the pot as I can fit and still have the pot hold together.

The need for air at the roots is also the reason for not using oversized pots for orchids. In a too-big pot, the medium stays too wet, and the water crowds out air, causing the roots to rot.

About Superthrive-- it's available at HD and Lowe's here. Ask for it. The Worm Tea is purchased via the internet from Jerry Meola, who posts on this site. His website is called "OrchidsAmore"

Sphag is terrific for rehabilitating orchids with root problems. I agree with Sam that it's a good medium in general if you can work out how to use it.

Thanks much and appreciate for your help! Let me check it out again at HD and Lowes.

Should I wait until the flowers are done and repot or I can repot it anytime I want? I don't know if it will stress the orchid.

[flutepic15]

To the repotting question, when a plant is in distress due to improper culture, (and you've got a Phal, and they're pretty tolerant of repotting), I will usually repot. I would unpot, inspect the roots. Anything that isn't firm gets cut, even if that means there's not much of a root system left. This will likely also mean that you need to downgrade the size of the pot. Choose a pot by root size, not by leaf or plant height. Choose a pot that will just accomodate the root ball that you have, and pot it up. I don't like watering regimes like "I water every Wednesday" or "every Sunday". There are so many variables that affect when you should water, such as humidity, heat and whether it's been sunny or rainy. I have to water much more often on weeks when we've had nothing but hot, sunny weather. Also, you won't be able to maintain the same schedule as the seasons change. Plants need less water in winter, when temps aren't as high (as a general rule). The other thing that you may need to consider is this: your leaves look pretty floppy, which is indicative of dehydration. Not dehydration due to underwatering, necessarily, but due to the fact that there's a poor root system. It may eventually become too stressful on your orchid to be in bloom while under such stress. You may evenutally need to considering cutting your spike off, to allow the plant to refocus its energies on becoming more healthy.

[mehitabel]

Originally Posted by flutepic15

... Choose a pot by root size, not by leaf or plant height. Choose a pot that will just accomodate the root ball that you have, and pot it up. I don't like watering regimes like "I water every Wednesday" or "every Sunday". There are so many variables that affect when you should water, such as humidity, heat and whether it's been sunny or rainy. I have to water much more often on weeks when we've had nothing but hot, sunny weather. Also, you won't be able to maintain the same schedule as the seasons change. Plants need less water in winter, when temps aren't as high (as a general rule). ...

This is such good advice, I just wanted to underline it. Some people do the "weekly water" thing, but I've never found that to work. Big pots need it less often than that, and small pots need it more often. We've had a couple of weeks of rainy, cloudy weather, and my phals need water less often--more than just a day.

You can easily learn to gauge the need for water by simply lifting the pot. A newly watered pot feels heavy. One that needs water will feel surprisingly light. Or you can just stick your finger into the medium for about 1 knuckle and water when it feels dry about 1" down.