Advice please!

[OrchidLady06]

I got a phalaenopsis orchid about a year ago, i followed the care instructions, and thought it was fine, well, i began thinking i wanted to get it to flower again, so i found this site for care tips, and now i know i really do need help! I noticed a little green shoot thing poked up-- but just figured it was a leaf-- now i believe its a root--- today i noticed the two bottom leaves are drooping, so i thought, its dry-- (i just mist it with a fertilizer/water mixture, i don't soak it)--- i pulled it out of the pot just so i could look at the roots and it is getting root bound--- but i also noticed the roots don't look good, i mean they are discolored and don't look very alive, i also noticed that their doesn't appear to be any bark in with it-- so i think i probably need to repot the little guy--- but i have no idea even if i've been watering it correctly-- do you soak them? i'm really really clueless-- just any advice for the care of this plant would be great

[mayres]

You might want to visit the aos site and read either or both of the culture sheets on phals - http://orchidweb.org/aos/orchids/page01.aspx. Of course there are lots of other places on the internet as well with extensive information on care of phalaenopsis. In the wild these plants grow on trees, so of course NO media is involved in these instances - but lots of humidity in their environment. The pots and media that we put orchids in are largely for our benefit - not the plants - so that we can arrange our schedules to meet their needs and move them around to suit our desires. Lots of different media types are used for phals - fine media like peat, coir, sphag, bark (of various grades/sizes), perlite, etc. Which you choose will be somewhat dependent upon what you are comfortable with. I think one of the safest medias for beginners is bark or some combination of bark (medium to coarse) in that is doesn't stay too wet for long. The most common problem with beginners is keeping the plant too wet (overwatering). If the roots are not alive they will be mushy (caused by overwatering) or paper-thin and dry (less likely underwatering). Often plants come from greenhouses with high humidity and the aerial roots will soon dry out and wither away when placed in dry environments. When you repot you can remove all the dead roots. Aerial roots are fine - if they bend into the pot without breaking you can include them, if not just enjoy them outside the media with the leaves. Use a pot just slightly larger than the amount of live roots you have available - too large pot and the media will not dry out quickly enough. If you use bark soak it for 24-48 hours first. Bark is often soaked for 15-30 minutes by some growers in order to get more water retention and lengthening the time between waterings - others will just water through for say 15-20 seconds. Other media like coir or sphag will not benefit from any soaking at all - just water. Phals typically will loose the bottom leaf or two during each growing season - so don't panic if this is the case. They usually turn yellow over a couple weeks and finally drop off. This should coincide somewhat with new leaves appearing and taking their place. Will let others add or wait further questions. Good luck...mike

[jerrymeola]

if the plant has survived a year with the treatment you are giving it, then it could not be too bad.

Bark is not the only medium for growing, many growers use Sphagnum in their Phals. If there is nothing left then it is time to re-pot.

Soaking is the most common way to water, but not the only way. If you are misting often then the plant took water in the roots and with Phals they can absorb some water through the leaves.

If they have not been getting enough water the bottom roots will be dry and brittle. If they are the brittle portion can be cut off.

You say they were discolored, which confuses me. I can get black roots when they partially rot, but your description and care do not seem to be this extreme.

Examine the roots more as you re-pot. Soak the plant for an hour to soften the roots. Phal roots can easily break when manipulating them. Loosen the roots and re-pot in a pot about an inch bigger. Remove any bad roots. Gently squeeze the roots and if they are not soft (which I doubt with your description) and not brittle when soaked, then they are fine and the orchid should like the new space in which to grow.

[OrchidLady06]

I think i might have underwatered the orchid, i did spray it down alot, but i don't know how much of it actually soaked in. So is it easier for a beginner to give an orchid root rot when it is planted in the moss instead of wood chips? what if i were to replant it in both? also, we have wood heat, which REALLY takes moisture out of the air, so i was wondering if i placed it by a cool humidifier if that would help it at all-- i was also thinking that the air comming out of the humidifier would create better ventiliation-- so the water wouldn't just sit in the roots, and would make it cooler (in the evening) to promote it to bloom-- what do you think?

[johnemartin]

I agree that if your orchid has done well so far, it's probably alright. The often cited article on this site that describes the bamboo skewer method of determining whether a plant needs to be watered could help reduce your anxiety about proper watering. Humidity is important to Phals. Placing your pot in a tray with pebbles in it and adding water to the tray (below the level of the bottom of the orchid pot) will increase the humidity around the orchid. Finally, good air circulation will help prevent the plant from developing diseases, encourage stronger roots, etc. The material I've read suggest a small fan close to the plant but pointed away from the plants so that air is drawn gently across the plant. Light levels for Phals. need not be too bright. An east-facing window is most often recommended. As mentioned above, roots poking out of the medium does not, of itself, indicate a problem. In the wild, some Phals. grow in rock crevices (plants doing this are referred to as lipophytes) with no, or very little, medium. Thus, their roots are almost completely exposed. Most are in trees with a little medium (e.g. dead leaves) and are referred to as epiphytes. One reason Phals. are so popular is that they like the level of heat most people have in their homes eliminating the need for heaters/coolers/etc. Hope this helps and MELE KALIKIMAKA (Hawaiian for Merry Christmas).

[OrchidLady06]

Thanks for all your advice--- I'm going to go get some mulch and replant the orchid in it's current pot with mulch instead of sphag. thanks again

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

Did some one use the term mulch? I am sure they did not mean mulch. Medium 'orchid' bark is what you want. It is usually fir bark, has been treated in some manor to kill pathogens, and will last longer than garden bark. Anything labeled as 'mulch' will kill orchid roots very quickly.

[Aniko]

Hi OrchidLady06,
You got a lot of advise, but I would like to add something.
It seems that you are worried much about the air humidity and you prefer misting (spraying?) instead of watering.
This method can cause several problems besides underwatering. One is the crown rot if the water don't evaporate in time, before the air get cooler at night. So, the wet & cool is not a good combination because encourages fungus activity.
An other problem is the salt deposition which also can kill the orchid.To prevent this, when it's time for watering, the whole pot can be placed under pouring water and flushed. At this occasions the leaves can be flushed as well, preferable in the morning ours, to get dry before evening.
The "Skewer method" it's a practical way for beginners to determine when the medium is ready for watering.
Phalaenopsis get easily adapted to home conditions, including air humidity - my Phals are happy without any extra humidifier.
Good luck! Aniko.