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Old 09-25-2006, 01:36 PM
Cynthia, Prescott, AZ's Avatar
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Skewer use for watering of orchids

Watering is the most difficult hurdle for the new orchid grower. This one problem alone is what has given orchids the reputation of being hard to grow. The following is a method to help the beginner learn how to water. Once one gets a good feel for the watering needs of their plants, it can be dispensed with.

Get some bamboo barbeque skewers from the grocery store and stab the clean unhandled end of one into the pot down to the bottom, and for clay pots, as close to the center of the pot as is reasonable. Leave it there and when you think it is time to water, pull the skewer and look at the color to see if the skewer is drying out, then put it back, hopefully into the same hole. Never share skewers between plants, as this will transfer virus between plants. Always dedicate a skewer to a plant.

Phalaenopsis, Paphiopedilums, the Oncidium family, and potted Vandas should get very close to dry, but not completely. Cattleyas, Laelias, Brassavolas, the non-reedstemmed Epidendrums, and most Dendrobiums (while not growing as during winter) should dry out completely before watering. In a fine mix, the skewer will look dry when the mix is dry or slightly off color when ready for plants like Phals to be watered. However, in a very chunky mix, like medium bark, the skewer may dry a little before the mix does, so you might want to wait just a little longer for the 'dry before watering' plants. If in doubt, error on the dry side. If the skewer looks wet, for sure don't water.

Plants like Cymbidiums, Dendrobiums while growing and blooming, and Reedstemmed Epidendrums can be watered more freely as long as the mix drains freely and is not holding an excessive amount of water, and skewers are not needed here. Vandas without mix in a basket or pot, and Phragmipediums can and should be watered very freely.

If, after doing this, you determine that you have probably been over watering, then there would be concern for damage to the roots. It is common to pull the root ball from the pot and inspect the roots when one is concerned about this, then replace the ball into the pot. Gently squeeze the roots. If they are firm, they are OK. If they collapse, they are dead. Occasionally, a dead root gets petrified, but these are very black looking and are unlikely to be confused with living roots. Don't expect all the roots to be alive. As long as there are some living roots, the plant will be OK. If the mix falls away from the roots, you can put it all back around the roots, but you need to know that you want to press the mix in firmly so the plant can't wiggle, and try not to break roots.

After a time the skewer is likely to discolor because fungi seem to like the wood. If this happens, soak the discolored portion in 10% or higher bleach solution until the color comes back to normal. Rinse lightly and return the skewer to the pot.

Here are a few other methods of determining the moisture content of a pot, and these may be practiced at the same time as using skewers to help in the general watering education.

1) Lift the pot just after watering and notice the weight. The pot will be considerably lighter when it needs watering. This works well for plants in plastic pots, not so well when clay pots or rocks in the bottom of pots are used.
2) You can put a finger down into the pot and feel the mix, but this practice could transfer disease to the plant if you jab a root with a fingernail. I don’t recommend this unless you are pretty sure there are no roots in the portion of the mix you are testing.
3) If you have a good nose, you can sniff the pot. After watering, you will notice a humid and almost musty smell. When this smell is almost completely gone, water.

Cynthia, Prescott, AZ
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Old 09-25-2006, 01:49 PM
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If you have any additions, corrections, or recommendations, I would like to hear then, as I will ask Dave to make thhis a sticky for newbies. Cynthia
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Old 09-25-2006, 03:46 PM
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thanks cynthia!
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Old 09-25-2006, 03:54 PM
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Cynthia, what an excellent article! Very informative and thorough. The only thing I might suggest to add is that they trim the skewer down to an inch or two above the medium, otherwise some growers might leave the full length of the skewer in all their pots, and wouldn't that be a sight!
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Old 09-25-2006, 04:41 PM
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Very informative. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
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Old 10-17-2006, 09:01 PM
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thank you so much.. this is very helpful!
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Old 10-18-2006, 02:35 PM
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Question/suggestion

Although my suggestion would duplicate information available elsewhere on the net, would it be helpful to have a list of common abbreviations and the parentage of crosses (say in FAQ) on this site? This might reduce the number of questions posted (like my recent one about Calmanara). I could get it started if you think this is appropriate as I recently had to find parents for Bllra., Burr., & a few others.
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Old 10-25-2006, 06:26 PM
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Very helpful information. Thank you.
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Old 11-10-2006, 01:03 AM
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I have a question that some might find it silly. But is watering and misting the same? When I tried to water the plants, like phal or dendrob, once or twice a week, spider mites tends to attack my plants. If watering it too much, fungi will attack. Help please.
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Old 11-10-2006, 10:40 AM
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No - not the same. Why don't you post this question in another (new) thread so that others might potentially join in and learn about this as well....I wouldn't think watering should have anything to do with spiders.
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Old 11-18-2006, 03:01 AM
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Can you post pictures of skewers that is not good yet to water and the ones that are just right to water?
It would be a big help for beginners like us.
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Old 11-18-2006, 12:42 PM
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Repeating here what I sent to Tom:

The problem with pictures is that different mixes will be ready to water with different 'looks' of the skewer. I grow 98% of my orchids in a combination of 3 parts small perlite and 2 parts Canadian peat (+ a little dolomite). A skewer in this mix makes very good contact to the mix and shows the condition of the mix quite well. The remainder of my plants are either in small bark or Cymbidium mix, which also make good contact and show the condition of the mix well. But those growing in medium bark have lots of air in the mix and very small contact area between the skewer and mix, and the skewer will dry out faster than the mix. Those that have this situation say that they put the skewer against a sensitive part of the face (lips, cheek, ?) and can tell by the temperature when the plant is ready for watering. For Phals and Paphs, plants that should not dry out completely, seeing a dry looking skewer is probably the ideal time to water anyway, as these plants should not dry out completely. So, pictures with caviats might work, but my pictures would be atypical of what the average person should see. I also think that the average orchid plant can take watering before being absolutely dry, but since we want people to error on the dry side, an error the other way is fatal, we don't want to make much of watering before being dry.
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Last edited by Cynthia, Prescott, AZ; 11-22-2006 at 12:16 AM.
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Old 11-18-2006, 01:11 PM
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Rather than go by the look of the skewer I go by how wet or dry the skewer is. Wonderful information, Cynthia.
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Old 12-07-2006, 03:36 PM
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Skewer use in watering.

Cynthia,
Thanks for the very practical help. As a beginner orchid growing often feels like reading grandma's receipe where things were done by the subjective "feel" of it. The more of these tips I get will help shorten my learning curve.
Richard
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Old 12-07-2006, 06:37 PM
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I am new to orchids and this site. I have Phal. orchids which were in bloom when I got them. I have had them about a month and some of the blooms are curling up and falling off. The stem to the bloom is off white instead of green. Can anyone tell me if this is a watering problem or lighting problem?
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Old 12-07-2006, 10:44 PM
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There is no way to tell how long you're phals were in bloom before you got them, so it may just be that it is there time to drop.
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Old 12-08-2006, 09:47 AM
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Thanks. Does anyone know of any good learning books on orchids?
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Old 12-13-2006, 11:38 PM
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One suggestion

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sherrie View Post
Thanks. Does anyone know of any good learning books on orchids?
This one was a book I lied for it covers alot with simple yet detailed info.
"The Orchid Specialist" by David Squire... Paperback $9.95 @ Barnes & Noble ... Hope this helps
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Old 12-19-2006, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sherrie View Post
Thanks. Does anyone know of any good learning books on orchids?

I recommends Ortho's All About Orchids if you want a quick guide to orchids...or Ortho's Complete Orchid Guide for a more comprehensive guide.
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Old 01-11-2007, 11:59 AM
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I am new to orchids & when I read this message I had just read another one on watering which mentions the skewer test & I was thinking "Whats that??!" Thankyou so much for the timely clarification!! It is a very useful tip!! Thanks again!
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Old 01-21-2007, 04:16 PM
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Sharyn is just fantasticSharyn is just fantastic
Cynthia: Thanks for the great tip. I've been using your skewer method and it's almost fool proof. If I can't see any color difference, I place the skewer on my cheek - if it's cool, it still has moisture.

Also, your tip on waiting a few days to water if you're not sure, is right on!
This is the best watering tip I've ever learned and has help me immensely. I now use this practice on my other houseplants.
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Old 02-11-2007, 02:16 PM
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how much should I water?

I read your notes on how to check for watering. soms good Info. do I just leave the skewer In the pot? and how much water do I use? I have a Phala In a clay pot and I think will need watering In the nexst day or two and I dont want to over water.
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Old 02-12-2007, 10:29 AM
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very helpful
NancyG
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