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Old 01-20-2018, 02:52 PM
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curiosity, fertilizing, Coelogyne

Good afternoon, I was wondering about feeding through the foliage verse feeding the roots only? Next question, my Coelogyne, cristata and graminifolia have finished blooming, it looks as if the spike is going to be a pseudobulb, two embryonic leaves are forming, could this be? Thanks
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Old 01-21-2018, 04:31 AM
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I feed on the leaves with overflow into the pot, so they get both, foliar by itself is not enough.
Coel cristata has a Heteranthous influorescence that is when the vegetative shoot from which the influorescence emerges, never develops a leaf or leaves, and where the terminal internode of this growth never enlarges to form a pseudobulb.

In the old state the influorescence and residual internode lie lateral to the rhizome, covered in scales or eroded scales.
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Old 01-21-2018, 10:40 AM
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Apologies if this seems like thread-hijacking . . .

Anton, I have a C. cristata which has grown into a large plant that never blooms. It probably has 70+ pseudobulbs ranging in length from 5 to 12 cm.
Each autumn I get new growths that never turn into blooms, sometimes they develop a really tiny pseudobulb (about 0.5 cm diameter) and narrow leaves 6 cm long), other growths just go brown. Never anything that looks like a flower spike. Summer growths are always with the standard size pseudobulb and pair of leaves.

The plant came as a division from a friend that got it to bloom, but recently told me they were disappointed with the infrequency of blooms on the plant. I suspect my lack of success might be climate-related, we have hot summers and the winters are mild compared to much of the USA, but still reach below freezing on most nights from December through February. Here are some climate graphs for comparison:

Athens, Georgia: Athens, Ga Climate Athens, Ga Temperatures Athens, Ga Weather Averages

Adelaide: Adelaide, South Australia Climate Adelaide, South Australia Temperatures Adelaide, South Australia Weather Averages

My yearly routine has been to grow outdoors in the summer with Cattleya-level light, lots of water, fertilizer to roots on same schedule as my Cattleyas, roots of the plant kept in a zeer to keep them cool. I get really good summer growth. Autumn I keep it outdoors as long as I can, but eventually it has to come indoors to protect it from freezing. It is allowed to dry a bit in autumn, some shriveling of pseudobulbs, but not completely dry, and I increase water when it comes indoors, fertilizer applied to roots about monthly. "Indoors" means in the house, under grow lights, with central heating (no greenhouse unfortunately).

Anything in particular that I could change to improve results? Are there cultivars of C. cristata that might be more floriferous under my conditions?
Or should I re-home this plant with someone that might be able to provide better conditions?
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Old 01-21-2018, 06:50 PM
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I used to have issues with Coelogyne years ago and lost more than I care to remember. I now grow them like weeds in my conditions which are:
Temp range 59F low - 86F high : Humidity range min 60% - 90% (humidity is the crucial factor, they love humidity)

FEED:I feed weekly with a complete flush through about once a month to eliminate any salt build up.

MIX / WATERING: I have a mixture of 80% sphag; 10% Perlite; 10% small seedling bark. This helps keep the roots moist. You have to remember that these plants come from the tropics, and as such humid, moist conditions. BUT there is a caveat, there is a difference between moist and wet, and this is a fine line so because you use sphag, the need for waterinG is greatly reduced as the sphag and Perlite help retain the moisture.

AIRFLOW: Another essential element with Coelogyne. They like air movement as apposed to still air. I have a blower/heater (thermostatically controlled to min 15C (59F) going 24/7 mounted above the door of the warmhouse, and at head level a rotating box fan to direct the air in all directions around the plants, again goes 24/7. On hot days I turn on the 52" evp cooler and even like recently when we had 44C (111.2F) the warmhouse never got over 30C (86F)

LIGHT: I have all my Coels hanging up high to get high light which is filtered through 50% shadecloth/SolarWeave plastic/horticultural grade bubble wrap. This give a nice even diffuse, but bright light, too much or too little light is not well tolerated.

I hope this may help a bit.
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Last edited by Anton; 01-22-2018 at 12:33 AM.
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