Hello from Grass Valley, CA

[Solo Verde]

Hello All,
I'm a new newbie who has a big problem with my orchids. I can keep them green but no flowers . . . Hence my Log-in name: Solo Verde (Only Green). I have 4 Oncidiums, a Brassia, and a Phal. The Phal is blooming marvelously but I just got it. All my others bloomed marvelously then just want to sit there with their green leaves . . .
I've been told to start feeding them heavily with a bloom fertilizer but shouldn't they do this on their own if I'm caring for them correctly?
So many questions! Can't wait to hear back from the list. Maybe one day, in a million years or so, I'll be able to help with another topic!

[fred]

Hi and welcome to the forum

I hope that you enjoy your stay here with all of us orchidgeeks.

I hope the following links help

newbie question: Shultz Orchid Food?

Urea as N source in Fertilizer?

Worm Tea - further testing -accerated growth rate

[arleneg]

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Here is the link to AOS' (American Orchid Society) culture sheets:

http://www.aos.org/aos/orchids/page01.aspx

Brassia falls under the Oncidium family.

HTH.

[Tobi]

Hi & Welcome. I have 4 Oncidiums, a Brassia and a Brassidium all that I
bought in flower or starting to flower within the past 3 years. All of them
except 1 never bloomed the year after purchase for me. Plenty of new
growth also but no flowers. But the following year (1 Oncidium took 2 years)
they all flowered beautifully. Some times it takes the orchid time to adjust
to their new location. Also light, air movement, and watering conditions can
play a big factor. The links from Fred and Arlene should be helpful, but don't
get discouraged, it may be just of matter of adaptability time before they
bloom

[brookn]

Hi and welcome. We have a LOT of fun here, and we sometimes answer orchid questions lol. You will find many orchidmaniacs here.

[PhalPal]

I second Tobi that it very often takes a year or so for a plant to bloom in new conditions. Could also be that you are not giving it enough light. It will really help us to help you if you can tell us where you are growing your plant, i.e. windowsill, table top, how far from it's light source, and which direction the window faces. I'm assuming, like most of us when we are very new, you do not have grow lights or a greenhouse!

[Solo Verde]

Hi Everyone!
Thanks so much for answering so quickly! I had to go out of town after first posting and didn't realize I'd get so many great responses!

I guess I have some confusion in regards to what is meant by "bright" light vs. "direct" light. These terms seem to get used interchangeably on some culture sheets. Also, how long do the orchids need to get light? I live in a mountainous area at about 2800 feet of elevation. My house is in shade from the cedars and pines that grow on the property. My east facing window is pretty shaded and gets very little sun after the first hours of morning. My south facing windows are in a sun room and this gets very hot during the summer (no AC in there). My best window (or at least I think it is) is my west facing window. It is the brightest window and I've put up a shade cloth awning to filter any direct sun that comes through the pines and oaks in the afternoon.

After joining this group I found out that the Sacramento Orchid Society meets only an hour away so I attended the meeting and took two of my orchids. A couple of those members thought my issue as under watering so I've stepped up that regimen to every 3 days.

General humidity here is pretty low so I have my orchids on humidity trays - any thoughts on putting volcanic rocks in them vs. just water?

If this is a matter of letting "the girls" as I refer to my plants (my dogs are "the boys") get adjusted to their new climate I'm willing to wait but it sure would be nice to know that I'm doing everything in my power to get them blooming again . . .

Anne

[Bolero]

Welcome to the forum. A lot of great people here and I'm sure you'll get the information you need.

;-)

[Tobi]

Solo,
A east to southeast window would be best. That's where I have mine. They
do need a considerable amount of light but not a harsh southern exposure. A
filtered west window is O.K. Be careful not to overwater them. Unless it's really
dry and hot, I wouldn't water them more than once a week. They should be
slightly moist but not wet. I also use MSU (Michigan State University) fertilizer
which my "Gals" seem to like. They have different types to accomadate your
water conditions.

[Solo Verde]

Hi Tobi,
Is this fertilizer available on the West Coast? I haven't seen it in the nurseries but I'll try googling the name.

I am trying to make sure that I don't let "the girls" dry out as much as I had before . . . the psuedobulbs, especially on the Beallara Marfitch and the Brassia were looking a little shriveled. I'll watch the medium and wait a day if the medium still looks wet. So far this hasn't been a problem, everything seems to dry very quickly except for the one intergenic hybrid cattleya I have that came to me in spagnum moss. This seems to stay wet much longer than the orchids in bark.

[Tobi]

Hi Solo,
I get mine from Porter's Orchids. It's inexpensive (1 lb. for $6.00) and it
will last you a long time. Below is the link to get there.
www.portersorchids.com
Also let your Catt almost dry before watering especially if it's in Sphagnum
moss. They like to dry between waterings.

[PhalPal]

Hey Solo! I agree with Tobi above; your west facing window sounds like your best bet with all the tree shade you have. Sounds like you will need to keep your plant fairly close to the window; the light rays diminish very quickly just a foor away from the source. Think of 'direct' and 'bright' light like this. If you are laying on a beach, on the sand, full sun, trying to get burnt, that is 'Direct' sun. If you are on the same beach but under an umbrella with no rays shining on you, that is 'bright' light.
You will get lots of conflicting info on fertilizers and 'bloom busting' on this forum and every where else. None are completely wrong, none are 'the best way' to do it. Pick what you are most comfortable with. It was all too confusing to me so I go with what Normans Orchids (major Phal producer) does - balanced fertilizer year round. They control their blooming cycle with light and temperature in their greenhouse.
Phals need about a 20 degree temp drop overnight in the Fall to set their spikes for later. I start mine camping out when I am sure it will not get above 75 the next day.
The below link is great for knowing when to water and takes all of the guess work out of watering. Very often the top layer of your media will appear very dry and the roots will have plenty of water. Especially helpful if you have different media and they dry out at different rates.
Skewer use for watering of orchids
Hope this helps and we are always here if you are still confused! -Connie

[harrygermany]

Hi Solo Verde,

just my humble opinion:

* Don't give them too much fertilizer! They only need a tiny little bit from time to time. Little more in summer, less or nothing in winter.

* Don't water them too much if you grow them in a pot.
I have all my orchids in bark, and they get watered once a week during summer. In winter once every 2-4 weeks.
With the bark the water rushes through the medium and through the pot - and that is what it should.
Your orchids (like many other plants) don't like any moisture build-up in the medium.
That is why cachepots without a big hole in their bottom and without a saucer are plant killers.

Harry

[Hummer344]

Thought I would weigh in on: 1. watering. Every three days might be a little much. Others have advise caution, I would also. 2. The Cat in the sphag might be a problem. When I was new to orchids I killed more plants planted in sphag than anyother medium. I find its hard to control the moisture content and usually it stays to wet and rots the roots. If my new plants are in shag I check the roots for rot & re-pot them if the roots show signs of rot. If not I will re-pot them as soon as they quit blossoming.

[Tess1]

Hi solo verde, welcome. I had to laugh at your nic, my sister used to live in Palos Verdes, (green sticks).

[Solo Verde]

My oldest Orchid (an Oncidium Sharry Baby) is taking a dive! I've had it nearly two years - no flowers. Now it just looks sick. The psuedobulbs look fine but the leaves look very dry even though it has been watered regularly. The leaves also have turned splotchy brown on the undersides (it is not in direct sunlight). When I gently rub the leaves a rusty colored powder comes off on my finger. Any new growth has withered up and died. Only the oldest growth still remains. Any suggestions or will it soon meet my garbage can?

[arleneg]

Solo Verde,

Can you post a pic of your Onc. sharry baby? Just from your description, it sounds like it's infested with mites (tiny microscopic pests feeding on your orchid). If you have any insecticide or horticultural oil, I suggest spraying it.

[tizzycat]

I agree with arleneg - Mites.

Take her advice and don't give up on it yet.

[harrygermany]

Hello Solo Verde,

I think that the roots of your Oncidium have suffered from too much water and fertilizer.

You can find out easily if you look at the roots. Not all of them should be black. And if you rub them between your fingers, they should stay unharmed.

And smell at the roots. There should not be a scent like mildew or mold.

Plants with destroyed roots because of too much water show the same signs as those with too little water.

The "rusty colored powder" very likely is a fungus. So an insecticide will not help. What you should try is a fungicide (antifungal agent, antimycotic agent).

Regards

Harry

[Solo Verde]

I took my Oncidium to a local orchid grower - red spider mites is the diagnosis. I checked the roots and they look fine so I don't think there is a fungus issue on top of the spider mite infestation but I'll keep an eye on the watering. I've sprayed the plant with insecticidal soap (after swabbing the leaves with a 50/50 water and alcohol solution). It is actually looking a little better now. We'll see how it progresses. I'll keep spraying it every week for a couple of weeks to make sure the mites don't come back.

Thanks for all your advice!