another newbie, from PA

[Marcia_pa]

Hi,
I found this forum after rescuing a few small Phalaenopsis (is 6 a few?) from a big box store this weekend. At $2 and $3 each, I thought I would give them a try. I THINK I am a plant rescuer They will have a fighting chance with me, anyway!

I was Googling for information about potting mixes when I stumbled upon this forum. As expected, the plants have some rotting roots and I was looking for information about what to do and how to help them re-grow their roots. Any suggestions about this (and anything else to help such plants to recover from their stay at the BB store) will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
Marcia
western Pennsylvania

[mayres]

I have done this myself a number (too many) of times and can tell you it can take a LONG time for an abused plant to come around - we're not talking weeks here and sometimes not even months. It does have its rewards however if you have patience. I would knock off the old pot and media completely (depending upon what media they are in you may need to moisten) and remove all damaged roots with a sterile tool - dehydrated paperlike appearance, mushy, black, etc. till all you have left are the plump tan/cream colored ones (some that may have been exposed to light could be green, darker brown, etc.). There are many many options of media to use - depending upon where you live you might want to pick some options over others. Overwatering is the number one way phals are killed (IMHO). For this reason if you are concerned with overwatering you might want to start with a more open mix like bark, bark mixed with perlite, etc. On the other extreme are media's like coir with perlite, NZ sphagnum, and peat based mixes. Lots of options in between. The roots need to become nearly dry between waterings (see cynthia's sticky on this forum on using the skewer method to determine when to water!). Yes, I would call "6" a few, but I certainly don't expect you to only have a "few" in a few months. Look out! :-) mike

[Marcia_pa]

Thank you for your reply, Mike. I'm sorry to hear that the abused plants may take some time to come around (if I don't kill them myself first), but I have time. I don't expect them to become a blooming show piece in my home for Thanksgiving or Christmas. I'm posting a question about Schultz Orchid Mix on the orchid potting mediums forum, since I have a bag (bought when I rescued a small oncidium in the spring--my first orchid )

Marcia

[LLW]

Hi to Marcia_pa. Like you I am new to this forum and I have already gotten a lot of useful information. While I an not an expert I have had good luck with Phals, including way too many rescues. Mayres is right on the money with the suggestion that you take the orchids out of their current potting medium and repot them. Actually, the sooner the better. To me, one of the fastest ways to kill these fairly easy to grow orchids is too much water. By that I mean too much water STAYING around their roots. I am the classic overwaterer, because I have a tendency to "fuss" over my orchids. Becuase of this unfortunate tendency of mine I have always planted my Phals in the fairly course bark mixes and have had good luck. I also have discovered an east window is the Phals favorite place to grow. LLW

[Marcia_pa]

Thank you for the welcome and the tips, LLW. I'm enjoying learning about these beautiful plants and hope I succeed in getting at least one of them to flower for me!
Marcia

[atcrosby]

Mike gave some good advice on the potting mixes. I have had the same problem and trying to find the perfect balance to suit my own individual habits and home. I tend to have a higher humidity level inside so my medium does not dry out as quickly.

For my phals, I have a bark/charcoal/perlite mix which seems to work. Schulz has one as well but as was mentioned on another thread, you'll have to squeeze the bark through the bag to see if it's firm. If not, it's old bark just sitting on the shelves forever.

You might seek out a grower in your area or the local orchid society. The people there share your climate and know the peculiarities of dealing with orchids there. One thing I have learned (the hardway) is that no one piece of advice fits all. What works in Florida doesn't always work in Arizona. So the best I advice I received from Jerry M was to watch and learn. The orchids will tell you when things are right and when things are wrong.

Welcome to the site.

[Marcia_pa]

Thank you, Tom, for the welcome and advice. I'm looking forward to the 'journey' with these new-to-me plants. I will confess that I would never have bought them for their original price of $14 each--afraid I would kill them. But for $2 each, I'm willing to experiment a little. I always wanted to be a scientist!
Marcia

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

All beginers should start cheap (unless it is a gift, got to make the gift giver happy), that way you are mentally prepared for some ups and downs. It is a pity to see people buy their untimate one of a kind orchid, and kill it. Fortunately for most beginers now, most plants for sale are clones, so you can try over and over again if necessary to figure out how to grow that ultimate orchid. Cynthia

In the winter in New Jersey I find I can wait as long as ten days and even more between waterings.You can't go wrong using the skewer method, whatever medium you choose to use. The skewer will be either wet, damp, or dry and will tell you when it's time to water. I have been growing for seven years, and I still use this method.

[Marcia_pa]

Cynthia, I'd be unhappy killing a gift orchid--lucky for me, no one has given me one. I don't like to see what big box stores do to the plants that come in, but it does let someone like me (not willing to spend lot of money for houseplants that might be difficult) to take in some sad cases and give them a chance. I win some and lose some.

Orchid126, thanks for endorsing the skewer method. I have bought the skewers, but haven't yet plunged them into the pot. Here in PA, we are going into the winter heating season, so our air will be dryer--we have a forced air furnace. Do your plants seem to need watering less often because they are growing more slowly?
Marcia

[mayres]

Marcia - I have forced air here in Oregon too - with all the wet weather and higher humidity the plants definately take longer to dry out in my home between now and when warmer weather returns in the spring. For example I am only watering my phals about every other week. mike

[Daniel S. Barrett]

hi folks, I'm new as of today! & I'm really enjoying reading all thats happening! I have about 300 of my own orchids as a hobbist & I can related to all the problems i'm reading here, & remember all the stress I went through as I learned what works for me! It's all trial & error!

[Cynthia, Prescott, AZ]

Welcome Daniel. We need experienced growers on this forum. We seem to have more than our share of newbies, so any help is appreciated by us oldtimers, and we, the oldtimers, are still learning plenty, so will be interested in your experience.

[Marcia_pa]

Looking forward to seeing photos of your plants, Daniel. Feel free to offer advice to us new owners!

[Daniel S. Barrett]

Thank you Cynthia & Marcia!
I'm glad to be here! & I hope I can be of some service anytime! You never stop learning when it comes to orchids!