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Old 12-01-2010, 07:35 PM
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Caring for Phalaenopsis, Rons way

Hi, I hope this does not walk on anyone's foot.
A lot of new members ask on How to groew/flower/look after their Phallies.
This is my way.

Caring for Phalaenopsis
Rons way
TEMPERATURE: For your Phalaenopsis we would recommend temperatures around; Day 16 - 30 C Night Minimum of 16 - 20 C. don’t reduce the night temperature below 12C. Although it may look fine, your plant will not bloom but just 'tick over'. If your conditions are near to this minimum, keep your orchid quite dry. Higher daytime temperatures are no problem as long as your plant is in a shady place and humidity and the airflow's are good.
LIGHT: Being accustomed to the dappled light of the forest, moth orchids dislike direct sunlight, especially through glass. Indirect sunlight is ideal.
WATERING: If your orchid has been grown in a Co Co nuggets or bark mixture it's important to let the compost nearly dry out between watering’s. Water well from the top, taking care to keep the centre of the plant dry and leave to drain. Don't let your plant stand in excess water and if the pot is placed inside another container, make sure it isn't standing in trapped water. Rain water is recommended, watering with tap water will do no harm.
FEEDING: Feed your plant regularly with orchid fertilizer when you water. Every fourth watering leave out the fertilizer to allow any build up of salts to be washed from the compost. Plants in poor condition should have very low levels of fertilizer, if any, until a substantial root system is reestablished.
HUMIDITY: If you live in a dry atmosphere, standing the plant on a moist gravel tray will create a micro climate and assist growth. Make sure that the base of the pot is above the water level. Putting the pot on an upturned saucer would help lift it slightly. Gently misting the plants early in the morning can be useful if the air is really dry.
FLOWERS: The flowers of your moth orchid may look delicate but are extremely long lasting, often remaining in good condition for three months. When the flowers die, cut the stem back just above main leaf. Because the moth orchid does not have an annual rhythm like most plants we grow, it may produce flower spikes any time of the year. Should a large, healthy plant fail to produce a flower spike in a reasonable time (six months), reduce the temperature by 5 C for four weeks and that should encourage flowering.
OTHER HINTS: * The moth orchid likes home conditions similar to you. It doesn't like standing next to or directly above a heater or radiator and it dislikes draughts. * Occasionally a leaf may go yellow and drop off. Don't worry; it's quite normal. ….. * If it loses lots of leaves, you are probably over watering and giving it a root problem.
* If your orchid should suffer serious leaf loss, stop watering and feeding for four weeks. This can encourage new roots to be produced
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Old 12-01-2010, 08:16 PM
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that the beauty of it. You have your way of growing it. I have mine. The result is we all produce great looking flowers..
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:00 PM
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Lots of good advise in there Ron. Can I use your missive as a handout for my orchid classes
Thanks
David
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Old 12-01-2010, 11:18 PM
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Lots of good advise in there Ron. Can I use your missive as a handout for my orchid classes
Thanks
David
No problem, I made it up to hand out at our clubs shows, at least it gives some good info for new growers of Phallies.
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Old 12-02-2010, 02:18 AM
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Very useful information there Ron, : )
Thanks for sharing your way, being you get blessed with so many blooms and re blooms it a gift you've shared with us all "your way"
Thanks again Ron :
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Old 04-01-2011, 04:02 AM
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looking for something else, this popped up
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Old 04-01-2011, 09:26 AM
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thx for sharing!
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Old 05-22-2011, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron View Post
FEEDING: Feed your plant regularly with orchid fertilizer when you water. Every fourth watering leave out the fertilizer to allow any build up of salts to be washed from the compost. Plants in poor condition should have very low levels of fertilizer, if any, until a substantial root system is reestablished.
HUMIDITY: Gently misting the plants early in the morning can be useful if the air is really dry.
Ron:
Feeding: should you fertilize your phal when it's blooming and also when it not blooming?
Misting: for me misting is spraying with water. If you mist, water can get in crown and for what I read here it can rot the phal. Is this true or not?
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Old 05-22-2011, 08:51 PM
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Hi Schila
Quote:
Ron:
Feeding: should you fertilize your phal when it's blooming and also when it not blooming?
Misting: for me misting is spraying with water. If you mist, water can get in crown and for what I read here it can rot the phal. Is this true or not?
Hi feed my Phallies all they year round as they are a plant this if given good growing condition, will grow all the year around, although I would cut the rate back to say every 4th watering in winter.
Quote:
If you mist, water can get in crown and for what I read here it can rot the phal. Is this true or not
I mist a lot in summer and always water my plants with a rose head on the hose and watering can.
If you have warmth and plenty of fresh air it should be ok
I always water or mist in the early morning so it drys out quickly.
Never on cold days or in cold winters as it may stay for hours and perhaps then cause problems.
Watering over the leaves keeps the leaves fresh and clean from dust.
My way of keeping the plants happy.
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:40 PM
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Digitalgate

Digitalgate,

We both live in Singapore & don't get the temperature variations that Ron speaks of. A cold night for us is 24 degrees with average day highs of 31. Would appreciate knowing your way of growing Phalaenopsis outdoors?

Brianb
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Old 08-04-2011, 06:31 AM
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brian, i'm not sure if digitalgate got back to you but i believe he mentioned somewhere that he put them in his winecellar (i think im not sure)
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Old 08-04-2011, 06:19 PM
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Michael

No, That is what I was thinking of doing. Have not tried it yet. Too busy preparing to build a shade shelter.

Brian
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianb View Post
Michael

No, That is what I was thinking of doing. Have not tried it yet. Too busy preparing to build a shade shelter.

Brian
cool, let us know whe/if you try it out, and be sure to post picks of the shade shelter
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:37 AM
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Michael,

A bit small unfortunately due to limited space. The Orchid Pagoda will only be 3mx7m. Although it faces east its a bit shaded too. Have borrowed Digitalgates' light meter to measure intensity. Then perhaps the experts can decide what I best should try to grow.

Brian
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:46 AM
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oh yes of course, tiny, only 3mx7m, to me THAT IS HUGE
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Old 08-05-2011, 03:09 AM
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Thank you Ron! Very useful info!
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Old 08-05-2011, 04:02 AM
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Way To Go ! Ron ! Precise, concise and coherent way of teaching us how to grow the Phalaenopsis Orchid. Thank You !
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Old 08-05-2011, 09:46 AM
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Ron,

I think I am in trouble with my Phals albeit they are in Co Co husks. Can I send some photos?

Brian
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Old 08-05-2011, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianb View Post
Ron,

I think I am in trouble with my Phals albeit they are in Co Co husks. Can I send some photos?

Brian
Hi Brian, you can post them here if you like.
My mate just got back from the trip to Singapore, have not had a good talk to him but he did bring about 16 flasks back, these came from the nursery you listed, visited several of the nurserys you name d on your list.
Was extremely impresses with there setup and guided tour.
Many thanks for the help.
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Old 08-06-2011, 04:54 AM
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troubled Phals?

Ron et Al,

Attached are photos of three plants which basically represent the other 25 or so. All are hanging, the majority in clay pots and in Co Co husk. They are in shade under a roof. All are NOIDs and were purchased in flower.All were re-potted after flowering between 6 to 9 months ago. Until recently they were watered on an as required basis using the stick method but usually once per week when I fertilized, to which I also added a fungicide (that's the white deposit on the leaves).

When they started to look quite bad to me, dried out with flabby, dry leathery type leaves I started misting with water each morning i.e. about two weeks ago. However, really do not show much improvement.

Would appreciate your views.

Brian
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File Type: jpg IMG_0417.jpg (51.8 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg Plant1.jpg (52.3 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg Plant2.jpg (47.8 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg plant3.jpg (51.2 KB, 34 views)
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Old 08-06-2011, 05:24 AM
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How are the roots looking Brian? Hard to see in the pictures.
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Old 08-06-2011, 05:56 AM
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i'd say that they looked dehydrated, i believe that joyce is thinking along the same lines, and that they could be dehydrated due to root rot
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Old 08-06-2011, 06:08 AM
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Yes, they certainly do look dehydrated. That is why two weeks ago I started misting daily. Previously Iwas checking the wood skewer and they looked moist hence the watering only during fertilizing once per week. Have not yet looked at the roots. Possibly under the roof the air circulation may not be sufficient.

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Old 08-06-2011, 06:11 AM
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is it very humid over there (wait i just realised, ITS SINGAPORE, apparently its always really humid oh well may aswell ask)?
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Old 08-06-2011, 07:10 AM
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Hi, Brian.
several things I would not do myself to Phallies.
I would never use clay pots as they drain any moisture in the CoCo nuggets out of the mix. Also cause the mix to dry out in a couple of hours on a hot day!
Plants could be planted lower, just under their leaves so when any new roots start to grow they can grow straight into the mix.
Maybe also were they are hanging getts too much heat from the sun so thay dry out quicker.
I would be looking at buy clear pots and repot them into them, roots just love the extra light and also you can see if the mix is drying out by looking at the humidity inside the clear plastic pots.
Big learning curve and one advantage the plants have over us is; If they do not like how we pot and treat them they DIE
Give them a holiday by re-potting into clear pots and move them to a less hot spot, but still good heat.
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Old 08-06-2011, 07:52 AM
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Couple of points Ron. The pole they hang on runs East West . East is to the left of the first photo. However, because of the size of the roof overhang they get no sun at all. Have borrowed Digitalgates light meter so will measure the light-intensity on them during the day when we have sun.

Take it they could remain in clay pots but would need to be watered well perhaps twice or more per day??? Time I have plenty of.

Have not seen clear plastic pots here but will take another look.

My understanding was that Phals should be planted where possible facing downwards. Hence I have them above the level of the bottom leaves slanting to one side or downwards. Are you suggesting I can plant them vertically and as low as possible?

Is a combined fertilizing and fungicide treatment once per week ok.

Brian
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Old 08-06-2011, 08:26 AM
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Anky,

Aren't you the one who uses glass pots. How do you drill them?
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Old 08-06-2011, 08:55 AM
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i believe that anky uses some kind of diamond coated drill to drill the holes in the bottoms,
and phals are fine to be potted virtically, its just that you have to be careful about crown rot, about potting them facing downwards that is so that the water drains more freely from the crown, so that it doesn't rot.
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Old 08-06-2011, 09:27 AM
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Michael,

I think in my climate crown rot is not a major issue. Plants watered we'll in the morn will quickly dry out from the crown.

B
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Old 08-06-2011, 09:40 AM
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Digitalgate,

Do you have a view on what you see. Any idea where clear plastic pots are available in Singapore?

Are you going to the meeting tomorrow?

Brian
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:03 AM
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Brian if you are talking about an orchid meeting, then ask people there how they grow their Phal.'s because they will be able to help you more because they grow in the same climate, and if you can find a shop/company/nursery for just orchids then they should either stock, or be able to get some clear pots in for you, im lucky enough to live 5 minutes bike ride down the road from the president of my societies shop, he makes shadehouses, and sells everything you could possible need for growing orchids WOOHOO, best of luck and i hope you enjoy your meeting, be sure to make a thread about anything interesting
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Old 08-06-2011, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianb View Post
Couple of points Ron. The pole they hang on runs East West . East is to the left of the first photo. However, because of the size of the roof overhang they get no sun at all. Have borrowed Digitalgates light meter so will measure the light-intensity on them during the day when we have sun.

Take it they could remain in clay pots but would need to be watered well perhaps twice or more per day??? Time I have plenty of.

Have not seen clear plastic pots here but will take another look.

My understanding was that Phals should be planted where possible facing downwards. Hence I have them above the level of the bottom leaves slanting to one side or downwards. Are you suggesting I can plant them vertically and as low as possible?

Is a combined fertilizing and fungicide treatment once per week ok.

Brian
Hi Brian, personally I would not use clay pots, way too dry, the clay just sucks out the moisture.
Quote:
My understanding was that Phals should be planted where possible facing downwards.
All my Phal pots sit on a flat bench, when I place a plant into the pot all leavess usally look straight up.
Not on any angle.
There is so much B***S** out there on how to grow them.
Do a google on some of he big nurserys, all on flat beches with all plants planted level.
Check outmy other page at.
http://www.orchidgeeks.com/forum/orc...tting-mix.html

They are tropical plants that like moisture on there roots all the time.

When I started to grow Phallies I had loads of B/S ideas to go through, just look at who grows there Phallies to perfection, not runts with one or 2 flowers and expect this to be the norm
Best of luck
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Old 08-06-2011, 08:31 PM
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Ron,

Thanks.....will repot today into plastic containers with plants in an upright position. Will look around for transparent pots.

Brian
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Old 08-06-2011, 09:49 PM
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As previously stated, Ron's way can be used as a guideline. However, we need to in mind where you live and the location of the orchid. I live in the caribbean, where the lowest the temp gets is 65degrees. The issues I have are, too high temps, too much water or to little water, and sometimes pest.

I plant my orchids in clay pots with a mixture of bark, charcoal, clay ball, perlite, tree fern and a tiny bit of spag. I do this to help keep the moisture. On very hot summer days, I usually water the orchids everyday or every other day. When it's raining of course I don't water.

I have used clear pot but because of the moisture and sun, they get algae. So we orchid addicts have to get as much information as we can and see what works
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Old 08-06-2011, 11:13 PM
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Brian, I use glass for my phals because they're indoors...I don't put them outdoors they will fry and the roots will be double fried in glass like using a magnifying lens with the sun...you have no frost or bitter winters...you have a better chance of growing orchids than me...just find a good watering regimen...and plastic pots...Singapore has that in Chinatown...trust me they are all made in china LOL use the clay pots for some other orchids...I can see you are overwatering...you have humidity in the atmosphere, the phals will survive on that even for a month...ease on the water and let the roots breathe
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Old 08-07-2011, 06:48 AM
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Anky,

Ok my friend, will do.

Brian
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