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The common name for the Phalaenonopsis is the "moth orchid" as the flower petals resemble the wings of a moth. Well-grown plants can flower often, sometimes with a few flowers throughout the year, though the main season is late winer into spring. Average home temperatures and conditions are usually sufficient. Flower stems on certain hybreds can be forced to rebloom by cutting the tip off after initial flowering. Only healthy plants should be induced to flower repeatedly.

LIGHT is easy to provide for phalaenopsis. They grow easily in a bright window, with little or now sun. An east window is ideal in the home; shaded south or west windows are acceptable. In overcast, northern winter climates, a full south exposure may be needed. Artificial lighting can easily be provided. Fourfluorescent tubes in one fixture supplemented by incandescent bulbs are placed 6 to 12 inches above the leaves, 12 to 16 hours a day, following natural day length. No shadow should be seen if you hold your hand one foot above a plant's leaves.

TEMPERATURES for phalaenopsis should usually be above 60° degrees F at night, and range between 75 and 85° F or more during the day. Although higher temperatures force faster vegetative growth, higher humidity and air movement must accompany higher temperatures, the recommended maximum being 90 to 95° F. Night temperatures to 55° F are desirable for several weeks in the autumn to initiate flower spikes. Fluctuating temperatures can cause bud drop on plants with buds ready to open.

WATER is especially critical for phalaenopsis. Because they have no major water-storage organs other than their leaves, they must never completely dry out. Plants should be thoroughly watered and not watered again until nearly dry. In the heat of summer in a dry climate, this may be every other day; in the winter in a cool northern greenhouse, it may be every ten days. Water only in the morning, so that the leaves dry by nightfall, to prevent rot.

HUMIDITY is important to phalaenopsis, the recommended humidity between 50 and 80 percent. In humid climated, as in greenhouses, it is imperitive that the humid air is moving. Leaves should be dry as soon as possible, always by nightfall. In the home, set the plants on trays of gravel, partially filed with water, so that the posts never sit in water.


FERTILIZE on a regular schedule, especially if the weather is warm, when the plants are most often growing. Twice a month applications of high-nitrogen fertilizer (such as 30-10-10) are appropriate where bark-based media are used. Otherwise, a balanced fertilizer is best. When flowering is desired, a high phosphorus fertilizer (such as 10-30-20) can be applied to promote blooming. Some growers apply fertilizer at one-quarter strength with every watering; this is best for warm, humid conditions. When cooler, or under overcast conditions, fertilizer should be applied twice per month at weak strength.

POTTING is done in the spring, immediately after flowering. Phalaenopsis plants msut be potted in a porous mix. Potting is usually done every one to three years. Mature plants can grow in the same container until the potting medium starts to decompose, usually in two years. Root rot occurs if plants are left in a soggy medium. Seedlings usually grow fast enough to need repotting yearly, and should be repotted in a fine-grade medium. Mature plants are potted in a medium-grade mix. To repot, remove all the old medium from the roots, trim soft, rotted roots, and spread the remaining roots over a handful of medium in the bottom of a new pot. Fill the rest of the pot with medium, working it among the roots, so that the junction of the roots and the stem is at the top of the medium.



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Paphiopedilums, the lady's slipper orchids, come from south east Asia and the Asian-Pacific islands. They are semiterrestrial, growing in humus and other material on the forest floor, on cliffs in pockets of humus, and occasionally in trees. They are easy to grow at home, under lights or in the greenhouse.

These plants have flowers of heavy substance, lasting from one to three months. There are multi-flowered, sequentially flowered, and single flowered varieties of many different sizes, shapes and colors. To this day there is no accurate way to clone Paphiopedilums, making mass production difficult. Therefore the Paphiopedilum is one of the most unique and popularly collected orchids in the world. Many varieties can be grown easily indoors.

LIGHT is easier to provide for Paphiopedilums than many other types of orchids. They require shady conditions as in the hone in an east or west window, near a shaded south window, or even in a north window. In the greenhouse, shade must be provided. Give about 1000 to 1500 foot-candles. In the home fluorescent lighting is excellent; suspend two or four tubes six to twelve inches above the leaves.

TEMPERATURE for Paphiopedilums cover a considerable range. They are traditionally separated into three groups: the warm-growing mottled-leaved types, the cool-growing green-leaved types, and the warmer-growing strap-leaved multifloral Paphiopedulums.


Warm-growing types should be kept at 60 to 65° degrees F during the night and 75 to 85° degrees F or more during the day. Cool-growing types should be kept at 50 to 60° degrees F during the night and 75 to 85° degrees during the day. However, many growers raise all plants in the same temperature range with excellent results. The plants can stand night temperatures in the 40s if necessary (as when grown outside in mild climates), as well as temperatures to 95° F. Care must be taken to protect the plants from rot when cold (keep humidity low, and avoid moisture on leaves or in the crowns of the plants), and also to protct from burning when hot (shade more heavily and increase humidity and air movement around the plants).

WATER must be available at the roots constantly, because all plants in this genus have no pseudobulbs. All of these plants need a moist medium — never soggy, but never dry. Water once or twice a week depending on the medium in which they are planted and other cultural contditions such as temperature adn humidity.

HUMIDITY for paphiopedulum should be moderate, between 40% and 50%, which can be maintained in the home by setting the plants on trays of gravel, partially filled with water, so that the plants never sit in water. In a greenhouse, average humidity is sufficient. Using an evaporative cooling system in warm climates can increase the humidity. Air movement is essential, especially when humidity is high.

FERTILIZE on a regular schedule,but care must be taken to avoid burning of the fleshy, hairy roots. High-nitrogen fertilizers (such as 30-10-10) are recommended when potted in any fir-bark mix. In warm weather, some growers use half-strength applications every two weeks; others use one-quarter strength at every watering. It's important to fulsh with clear water monthly to leach excess fertilizer, which can burn the roots. In cool weather, fertilizer applications once a month are sufficient.

POTTING Paphs like fresh potting medium and are not tolerant of stale, broken down mix so annual repotting is recommended. Mixes vary tremendously; most are fine or medium-grade fir bark, with varying additives, such as perlite (sponge rock), course sand, charcoal, sphagnum moss or shreaded leaves. Moisture retention with excellent drainage is needed. Large plants can be divided by pulling or cutting the fans of the leaves apart, into clumps of three to five growths. Smaller divisions will grow, but may not flower. Before dividing, make sure each proposed division has a full set of healthy roots. Spread the roots over a small amount of medium in the bottom of the pot and fill with medium, so that the junction of roots and stems is buried 1/2 inch deep in the center of the pot. Do not overpot but select a pot just large enough to comfortably accomodate the roots.